Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

rear mud guards

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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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Default rear mud guards

I have a 07 c6. Just wondering if the rear mud guards are paintable. They appear to be made of black plastic. I was considering having them painted my car color and then having them covered with that clear bra material to keep them from chipping.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dboelens
I have a 07 c6. Just wondering if the rear mud guards are paintable. They appear to be made of black plastic. I was considering having them painted my car color and then having them covered with that clear bra material to keep them from chipping.
Yes they can be painted. It would require a GOOD cleaning...the use of an adhesion promoter of primer for plastic and then paint/clear. It may also be wise to add some flex-additive to the clearcoat. Also if the "clear bra" material were to be added. I (personally/professionally) would give the paint some time to cure before doing so. But that is just me... because this "clear bra" material is often times applied to factory baked finishes...and not of finishes that just came out of the paint shop. You may want to take to the manufacturer of the product and see what they recommend about that. So you do not have an issue of the solvents in your paint TRYING to get out...and the clear bra trapping them and causing a major paint malfunction. And the "cure" time is dependent on number of coats of base...flash time between these coats and number of coats of clear applied. The more time you can allow the paint to flash between coats...without getting out of the "window" of time specified by the manufacturer..will aid in final cure times...to a point.

"DUB"
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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Thanks for the great info. Are we talking days, weeks, or months of cure time? In your opinion.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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Possibly to be on the safe side...I would give it a few weeks. BUT like I mentioned....if teh painter POUNDS on (heavy thick coats) the basecoat...and barely gives it time to flash off....and does the same to the clearcoat...then it may/might take longer to cure. Force drying it could help...but I like to give my basecoat good time between coats to flash off so the overall cure time is lessened....and also longer time BEFORE the clearcoat is applied so the basecoat can vent out as much solvent as possible. Now the possibility of using waterbased basecoat is possible.... because once it goes flat (no shine) it is good to go and then either more paint can be applied as needed...or begin applying the clearcoat.

"DUB"
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