Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

First Repair

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Old Apr 25, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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Default First Repair

I went to lift my hood the other day(92 coupe) and wound up with a piece of the corner in my hand about the size of a playing card. I was able to do the repair and the contour came out perfect. I cleaned everything good and primered it without a hitch. However, when I sprayed the color coat on, it came out rather rough. This was from a rattle can with the proper WA paint code. I am a beginner at this and was hoping you experts could guide me as to the proper way of fixing this roughness. Do I sand it smooth before putting on a clearcoat and if so, what grit and wet or dry. The rest of the car is not showroom, so my best attempt will be good enough. Thanks for any help.
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 11:03 AM
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Gee, 15 views and nobody willing to help?
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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I will leave the paint to the experts but the one question I will ask is did you use Resin Epoxy when you did the repair. If you used regular resin as you can get at most auto parts stores you are liable to lift your hood and have that same section come off again. Your car is SMC and regular resin does not bond to it well.
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 929nitro
I will leave the paint to the experts but the one question I will ask is did you use Resin Epoxy when you did the repair. If you used regular resin as you can get at most auto parts stores you are liable to lift your hood and have that same section come off again. Your car is SMC and regular resin does not bond to it well.
Thanks for the heads up, but I did make it known to the guy at the autobody supply store what I was putting it on. He assured me I had the right product. It would be a shame to be him if it's not right.
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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This texture ( or roughness) is more than likely due to the reduction of your paint (viscosity) and the amount of air pressure that this aerosol can actually can provide in atomizing the paint mix. "Rattle-can" primers are one thing...but paint is another and should be adjusted (thinned more) to compensate for this type of spraying equipment (aerosol can). But seeing how I am not there at the time you shot it. It could also be in your technique in applying paint and or the way to properly use an aerosol paint can.

Knowing that you are not going for prefect. And NOT KNOWING what color ( solid or metallic) you are shooting...it is hard to advise you in what path to take. But...you can wetsand it till it is smooth with 500 grit and.... either re-apply more paint ( if it gets light and needs more paint due to being able to see though the paint to your primer) or clear coat it and be done with it.

Either way...this will be a "touch-up" and may require further repair in the future.


Best of luck,
"DUB"
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
This texture ( or roughness) is more than likely due to the reduction of your paint (viscosity) and the amount of air pressure that this aerosol can actually can provide in atomizing the paint mix. "Rattle-can" primers are one thing...but paint is another and should be adjusted (thinned more) to compensate for this type of spraying equipment (aerosol can). But seeing how I am not there at the time you shot it. It could also be in your technique in applying paint and or the way to properly use an aerosol paint can.

Knowing that you are not going for prefect. And NOT KNOWING what color ( solid or metallic) you are shooting...it is hard to advise you in what path to take. But...you can wetsand it till it is smooth with 500 grit and.... either re-apply more paint ( if it gets light and needs more paint due to being able to see though the paint to your primer) or clear coat it and be done with it.

Either way...this will be a "touch-up" and may require further repair in the future.


Best of luck,
"DUB"
Thanks for the reply. What I ended up doing was sanding it down with 600 wet. I then resprayed the color, but this time I put it on thicker. The first time I was scared of runs and I could be wrong but I think this might have been the problem. This time, it seemed to flow together to form a smooth finish. It is the stock 1992 "Bright Red". I have to return to my job tomorrow, so I will spray the clear before I go and let it cure while I am gone.
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