1973 chip
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 339
Likes: 9
From: Goodyear AZ
1973 chip
My father in law has a 1973, he had a chip was trying to determine best way to fix. He covered it up with duct tape as temporary protection. Wanted to get the forum's opinion on how to fix. What product to use, steps, etc..
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I am not doing anything but commenting on what I have seen, experienced, etc so all those who may read this reply...can understand my views...so do not take this personally.
That is a pretty strong area so I seriously doubt that any laminating is required. Other than getting that duct tape off of it...and for what it is worth...do not use it again for an issue like this...unless you want to make a repair harder for the person repairing it....the reason being....
This damage is right on the top edge of a panel. BUT the duct tape is going on both sides of the "peak"...which can cause for paint issues that would not have been there if the duct tape was not applied in such a large patch. Cutting the masking material as close as possible to the damage ares is wise in most cases. Use "crash wrap" or a tape that would have to be removed and replaced quite often so damage does not occur to areas that other wise could have made the repair job go easier. Duct tape's adhesive is quite aggressive and can actually pull paint off. I know it was used with the best of intentions...but I am just letting others know what not to use if at all possible. At least it was not masking tape...which is a big NO-NO...especially if it is left on the finish...allowed to get wet and then dry. that is much worse than the duct tape....which I have encountered numerous times form people bringing me stuff to fix.
When I look at a repair, I look at it in geometric planes. So your repair has 2 geometric planes that meet at a "peak' So if I were to try to repair this...I would try to keep it really tight to the highest point in the peak...so the color would not go down each side of these 2 geometric flat surfaces...thus creating a whole big issue in trying to get the paint "spot-on" for a really good match. Color matching is all about "tricking the eye" when you look at it. AND if you can keep the repair right at the top...you can "trick the eye" and have it look good again. Because if you have to go down on each side quite a bit...you are now dealing with the entire rear clip and a whole bunch of prep and painting...which "possibly" could have been avoided...which is why I commented how I did.
NOW...with that covered...and not being able to see the actual damage area due to the duct tape glue, etc ...all I can say is that if there are no stress cracks...you can simply fill this area in carefully with Vette Panel Adhesive. You more than likely car also go in from the inside and pack some material to keep the VPA from falling through the hole (if there is one). The prep and application of the VPA can be kept to a tight small area so it is possible that the paint touch up can be kept to the top edge and not have the touch-up paint going down both sides...but without seeing it...I can not confirm this.
Be careful with the adhesive remover you use to get the glue off also. Make sure that you give the fiberglass time to dry out before you go and apply something due to the glue remover will absorb into the fiberglass.
DUB
That is a pretty strong area so I seriously doubt that any laminating is required. Other than getting that duct tape off of it...and for what it is worth...do not use it again for an issue like this...unless you want to make a repair harder for the person repairing it....the reason being....
This damage is right on the top edge of a panel. BUT the duct tape is going on both sides of the "peak"...which can cause for paint issues that would not have been there if the duct tape was not applied in such a large patch. Cutting the masking material as close as possible to the damage ares is wise in most cases. Use "crash wrap" or a tape that would have to be removed and replaced quite often so damage does not occur to areas that other wise could have made the repair job go easier. Duct tape's adhesive is quite aggressive and can actually pull paint off. I know it was used with the best of intentions...but I am just letting others know what not to use if at all possible. At least it was not masking tape...which is a big NO-NO...especially if it is left on the finish...allowed to get wet and then dry. that is much worse than the duct tape....which I have encountered numerous times form people bringing me stuff to fix.
When I look at a repair, I look at it in geometric planes. So your repair has 2 geometric planes that meet at a "peak' So if I were to try to repair this...I would try to keep it really tight to the highest point in the peak...so the color would not go down each side of these 2 geometric flat surfaces...thus creating a whole big issue in trying to get the paint "spot-on" for a really good match. Color matching is all about "tricking the eye" when you look at it. AND if you can keep the repair right at the top...you can "trick the eye" and have it look good again. Because if you have to go down on each side quite a bit...you are now dealing with the entire rear clip and a whole bunch of prep and painting...which "possibly" could have been avoided...which is why I commented how I did.
NOW...with that covered...and not being able to see the actual damage area due to the duct tape glue, etc ...all I can say is that if there are no stress cracks...you can simply fill this area in carefully with Vette Panel Adhesive. You more than likely car also go in from the inside and pack some material to keep the VPA from falling through the hole (if there is one). The prep and application of the VPA can be kept to a tight small area so it is possible that the paint touch up can be kept to the top edge and not have the touch-up paint going down both sides...but without seeing it...I can not confirm this.
Be careful with the adhesive remover you use to get the glue off also. Make sure that you give the fiberglass time to dry out before you go and apply something due to the glue remover will absorb into the fiberglass.
DUB
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 339
Likes: 9
From: Goodyear AZ
Thanks DUB. I found VPA below wanted to verify with you that is correct.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=40
Also does it make sense to put table on each side form pointed tip and then force VPA in between the tape.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=40
Also does it make sense to put table on each side form pointed tip and then force VPA in between the tape.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 339
Likes: 9
From: Goodyear AZ
A found out that 1973 and newer vettes use SMC type material. So I looked up Vette Panel adhesive for SMC, wanted to verify with you that this is correct. Link is below
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=40
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=40
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
YES...the product that you have found is what I would use. No need to use the SMC Panel Adhesive...even though you can if you want to. BOTH will work. Just the SMC Panel Adhesive need to be treated a little bit differently...but would work well also.
Yes...using masking tape to create a stopping point would be advisable.
We can discuss it further soon.
DUB
Yes...using masking tape to create a stopping point would be advisable.
We can discuss it further soon.
DUB
