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Back in the 80's, I had my original 73 repainted in imron. I would like to have the coupe repainted now.
What would be the best advice on how to remove the imron to be repainted?
Thanks for any input.
Professionally speaking...I prefer to chemically strip the paint off.
You can use the razor blade method to get off what you can...and then use chemical to get the rest off. BUT...you really have to watch what you are doing with the razor blade because you can actually nick,cut and slice into the body. I have been doing it for well over 20 years and I still get a small nick here and there...not a big deal...and do not be afraid of it...just be AWARE of it.
Some others may recommend other methods of removing paint...and even use a heat gun while using the razor blade....which I do from time to time when needed...so it is hard to say due to not being there and seeing what the paint is doing when it is being stripped with the blade.
having it blasted with a media. (walnut shells or plastic media) can make the clean up extensive and also still damage the body of the person who is stripping the paint off does not watch what they are doing and know when to stop.
And if you are going to strip it...in my opinion...take it ALL off...all the way down to bare body.
Thanks for the advice DUB. I was not sure that imron would not have to be removed another way as it is so hard.
The finish is still shiny but it has blistered in places along the fenders where they were bonded at the factory.
Thanks again.
My opinion,hhmmmm..........well this is what I'm planning to do to mine...It;s not Imron,but if your car has no damage and still looks good,just give it a good sanding and paint it,you can featheredge,and block sand it till it looks perfect.........prep means everything....believe it!
once adhesion problems show up it is not a good time to repaint. introducing new solvents into the mix can make it worse. it may look good until it sets in the sun for a while the the uv rays will work on it. pick a method to strip it and clean it all the way to virgin glass. using the heat gun and razor blade scraper works well. just taking it slow is the key . good luck with it
Just because your paint looks good...and prepping it may work out well with no problems. One one thing that I honestly can count on is that old Corvettes have been painted on at least once since factory.
And I KNOW...people tell me..."that second paint job is fine and has no problems". But for me....that is thekiss of death.
I have lost count of the number of cars that have been through my doors that have been repainted and were done very poorly. The paint looked good...until you break through and see that the previous prepper/painter DID NOT prep it correctly...and you can clearly see the shiny surface of factory paint.
All I know is that if a Corvette comes into my shop and it has been shot on after the factory...I will NOT guarantee anything if it is not stripped down to bare fiberglass/SMC/urethane. Some people actually seem to be shocked that I won't guarantee it...them I tell them why don't they do it the way they feel it can be done and when problems arise that had nothing to do with what they did....they can fix them and see how they like it.
My 66 was painted in Imron in the late 70s and had some touchup in lacquer. I used Captain Lee's Spray Stripper and it removed it all. The lacquer just melted away but that Imron took a couple or three applications. It is tough, but it will come off. Things like stripping on a humid day, applying stripper and then covering it with wax paper for awhile would help.
My 66 was painted in Imron in the late 70s and had some touchup in lacquer. I used Captain Lee's Spray Stripper and it removed it all. The lacquer just melted away but that Imron took a couple or three applications. It is tough, but it will come off. Things like stripping on a humid day, applying stripper and then covering it with wax paper for awhile would help.
For anyone who may need to know. IF...REPEAT....IF you cover the applied chemical stripper with anything such as wax paper or plastic to aid the stripper in having a bit more penetration.
BE CAREFUL and TEST it FIRST!!!!
On a steel body car it is not a big deal because the stripper can not absorb into the steel. BUT a Corvette does not have steel body panels (except for the inner door structures of a 1968-1982)...and with different types and strengths of chemical strippers on the market...results can vary greatly.
And yeah..I know..there are other parts that are not fiberglass...but I think you know what I am trying to communicate.