Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

Front Clip Removal

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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 06:11 PM
  #41  
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Ok DUB I finally got the clip off in one piece. Start to remove things off of it in an effort to get to that upper brace we spoke about. Once I am to that point will want to make sure I got what you mentioned to me on the phone, if that's okay. Doors are on but still need work. Was able to get some help with lifting the clip so I jumped on it. You know how that goes. Anyway as always thank you for all of your help.
r











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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 05:41 PM
  #42  
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That beam ...from the photos looks pretty rough. I know sometimes photos may seem to show the rust looking worse than it is...So I would be concerned how strong the metal is where the rust look the most intense.

Call me when you need to...or to discuss your options if this beam is really bad.

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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
That beam ...from the photos looks pretty rough. I know sometimes photos may seem to show the rust looking worse than it is...So I would be concerned how strong the metal is where the rust look the most intense.

Call me when you need to...or to discuss your options if this beam is really bad.

DUB
Tomorrow I was going to take a wire wheel to it so I could get a better look at its condition. I will show you pictures tomorrow> Then we can go from there I guess with options.
Thanks
r
Can I still get that part ??
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 06:59 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by rvzio
Tomorrow I was going to take a wire wheel to it so I could get a better look at its condition. I will show you pictures tomorrow> Then we can go from there I guess with options.
Thanks
r
Can I still get that part ??
You can get a part that can work...BUT...NOT that exact same part...like I have mentioned to you in our past phone conversation.

ALSO..I would not waste my time wire-wheeling it. I would remove it and see if it can be media blasted and how stout it actually is.

DUB
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #45  
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Dub I think your right, by looking at that upper member It looks pretty bad. In order to remove it I remember I am removing the metal riveted plate which looks like it is sitting on another piece. I could not remember if I was grinding off the rivets in order to get the brace off. I think you also mentioned heating from the top side as well. Last you wanted me to make some marks or I may glue some blocks indicating exactly where the new one needs to go. Tap in when you get home. Can't call ya cause I never got your number. Thanks man.
r



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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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I new I forgot one thing. Are these original and how the hell do you get them off. They are plastic type rivets that hold the rubber shields on the inner fenders.
r


Are they threaded or do you just pull them off????
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 05:30 PM
  #47  
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Sent you a PM
NO...YOU are going between the bonding strip and the metal beam support. You need to heat the exterior like you did the front clip and put your tool BETWEEN the bonding strip and the top hood surround.

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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Sent you a PM
NO...YOU are going between the bonding strip and the metal beam support. You need to heat the exterior like you did the front clip and put your tool BETWEEN the bonding strip and the top hood surround.

DUB
Okay that makes sense. Heat from underneath and thin knife should be on the nose glass to remove the adhesive. Where I have it it's too high. I will make some reference marks for guides so the new one will go back in the same spot. Thanks
r
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 02:20 AM
  #49  
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Hey R, is your donor car a 69? I can't remember. Anyways, in your post above (#45) the first picture shows a brace that goes to the inner fender. My 68 does not have that? Do you, or DUB, or ? know if 68 had those. I've discovered along the way that my 68 had some front glass work done at some point in it's life. Just trying to figure out if I'm supposed to have those as well. Thanks.
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 13611
Hey R, is your donor car a 69? I can't remember. Anyways, in your post above (#45) the first picture shows a brace that goes to the inner fender. My 68 does not have that? Do you, or DUB, or ? know if 68 had those. I've discovered along the way that my 68 had some front glass work done at some point in it's life. Just trying to figure out if I'm supposed to have those as well. Thanks.
I was talking to my buddy who has a 68 and those end brackets are there. The attach to the inner fender and the upper nose brace. So yes is the answer.
r
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 03:41 PM
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Okay I was able to remove the upper brace yesterday. I see what you mean now Dub. took some measurement from the lip to the nose. thickness with adhesive was right a 3/8. Here is a shot of it.
r













I will get back with you on what we spoke about as far as my direction. Thanks!
r
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 05:30 PM
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Glad you got it off. I had no doubts that you would get it off in one piece.

NOW...run your hand across the outside of the panel where the 'bumps' were. Can you still feel the bumps where the rivets show where the bumps would be????

IF SO...then these bumps that you can still feel can be fixed WITHOUT you having to grind or sand down the panel and loose any thickness in fiberglass.

I will wait on your call. Remember..I am not at the shop after 5PM EST.

DUB
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 12:43 PM
  #53  
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As you know I am a retired finish carpenter. In that world there were many ways to manipulate hanging a door. Since I am bouncing back and forth on my restore right now I can't seem to be able to move the door around to make adjustments to the rear gap especially on the top part of the seam. Some one mentioned taking the striker off, I am not sure what that is. I noticed that playing around with the body mount shims doesn't appear to do much. What's up with all of this. I was thinking of trying the donor doors to see how they fit and maybe they may line up better with the front clip. Thoughts!!
r




DUB!!!
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 05:49 PM
  #54  
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CALL ME. Once again...WAY too much to type out....a call will go much faster.

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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
CALL ME. Once again...WAY too much to type out....a call will go much faster.

DUB
Hey Dub I will call you today late afternoon. Also I am going to need the lower front cross member for an alum. radiator S/B. Have any??
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #56  
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Wanted to take another look at the original upper brace. So today I took the dremell and took of some of the rivet heads. A work in progress. I also purchased a new one but waiting on bonding strip



. Dub!

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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #57  
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What is/are your intentions?

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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
What is/are your intentions?

DUB
Well I thought I would spend time grinding off the rivet heads epoxy the divets and see how it comes out. What I want to know is this what you were talking about in regards to the rivet heads.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rvzio
Well I thought I would spend time grinding off the rivet heads epoxy the divets and see how it comes out. What I want to know is this what you were talking about in regards to the rivet heads.
YES...but if you are trying to use the new bream that you got....and still use the fiberglass bonding strip....and still have the rivets ends be able to be felt....you have to go about it a different way.

You have to remember...removing the heads off the rivets is removing the part of the rivet that is joining the bonding strip to the original beam. Taking them off is basically making the rivets USELESS....which means that another method will need to be used to BOND the fiberglass strip to the beam and still have the rivets there just for looks and they will have no purpose other than being able to feel them....because you will have a bonding adhesive joining the beam to the strip...then the strip to the hood surround.

AND ...if you want all of this and use the new beam so you have no rust....then each hole will need to be drilled so a new rivet can be bucked into it and then the bonding strip bonded to it.

DUB
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
YES...but if you are trying to use the new bream that you got....and still use the fiberglass bonding strip....and still have the rivets ends be able to be felt....you have to go about it a different way.

You have to remember...removing the heads off the rivets is removing the part of the rivet that is joining the bonding strip to the original beam. Taking them off is basically making the rivets USELESS....which means that another method will need to be used to BOND the fiberglass strip to the beam and still have the rivets there just for looks and they will have no purpose other than being able to feel them....because you will have a bonding adhesive joining the beam to the strip...then the strip to the hood surround.

AND ...if you want all of this and use the new beam so you have no rust....then each hole will need to be drilled so a new rivet can be bucked into it and then the bonding strip bonded to it.

DUB
If I use the new beam I would not be concerned with putting in rivets at all. However if I use the original I was under the impression that all I need to do was remove the rivet head and epoxy around the stem which should still have some compression left. Then smooth out the bonding strip divets. I thought that's what we talked about. Obviously I misunderstood. So what to do. Sure sounds like the new one is the way to go but I would like to know about the original. Another phone call maybe???
r
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