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I could have put this in a different area but wanted to see if DUB or anyone else in the body world would see it. How am I going about removing the adhesive on the lower sides by the louvers. I have the door sides free and the thin strip up top. Do I have to remove the motor as well as the body is my question.
Thanks
Roger
I could have put this in a different area but wanted to see if DUB or anyone else in the body world would see it. How am I going about removing the adhesive on the lower sides by the louvers. I have the door sides free and the thin strip up top. Do I have to remove the motor as well as the body is my question.
Thanks
Roger
Dub, first thanks for responding to my post. Not sure what parts you mean. Some of the parts are worth me moving to the project car like the heater box, radiator, core support, expansion tank. things like that. If you mean the clip I was trying to take it of without damaging it. I have seen where some guys have cut it off and then made repairs. Not sure what you mean.
Thanks
Roger
Hey Dub, maybe I can just take a sawzall and cut away what I need. I mean the frame is toast. I did want to try to use the car as a template for where things go since the project car is missing half the stuff and a lot is wrong.
Roger
PS Brought the Eckler clip to its new owner last week and went right through Charlotte at 8am. Traffic reminded me of when I lived up on Long Island. Man vehicles flying all over the place.
What I meant was if you are trying to remove a front clip and re-use it.
IF you are wanting to save the clip....which it seems that you are. HEAT is your friend here. And a lot of PATIENCE...so you do not crack something.
I would heat up the exterior of the panel so the heat would slowly migrate to the adhesive...and with thin tapered tools..I would being to separate the panels and slowly wedge a wider tool in the gap...and work my way up.
Take a heat gun to some of the factory adhesive you can easily get to and heat it up and with a small screwdriver...poke at it and you will see how it gets soft. This is where PATIENCE comes into play...because if you get in a hurry...you will crack the panel and wish that you slowed down and took your time. I also have a kerosene heater that I modified and it burns really clean and gets HOT...so I will use it to heat up a larger area...such as when I remove the outer door skin panels from the steel inner structure.
OR...you can cut away any of the firewall plenum parts. And when the clip is off...slowly remove them...but that is if you care to cut at the firewall or not.
What I meant was if you are trying to remove a front clip and re-use it.
IF you are wanting to save the clip....which it seems that you are. HEAT is your friend here. And a lot of PATIENCE...so you do not crack something.
I would heat up the exterior of the panel so the heat would slowly migrate to the adhesive...and with thin tapered tools..I would being to separate the panels and slowly wedge a wider tool in the gap...and work my way up.
Take a heat gun to some of the factory adhesive you can easily get to and heat it up and with a small screwdriver...poke at it and you will see how it gets soft. This is where PATIENCE comes into play...because if you get in a hurry...you will crack the panel and wish that you slowed down and took your time. I also have a kerosene heater that I modified and it burns really clean and gets HOT...so I will use it to heat up a larger area...such as when I remove the outer door skin panels from the steel inner structure.
OR...you can cut away any of the firewall plenum parts. And when the clip is off...slowly remove them...but that is if you care to cut at the firewall or not.
DUB
Your right with the heat gun. I have worked loose the part by the front of the door at the bottom all the way to the top of the windshield and across the thin strip to the drivers side and down the the drivers side . Now how do I get to the part on the bottom attached to the frame. I don't know if I should heat the lower fender by the side louvers from the outside. That part is tuff. Any Ideas.
Thanks
Roger
Your right with the heat gun. I have worked loose the part by the front of the door at the bottom all the way to the top of the windshield and across the thin strip to the drivers side and down the the drivers side . Now how do I get to the part on the bottom attached to the frame. I don't know if I should heat the lower fender by the side louvers from the outside. That part is tuff. Any Ideas.
Thanks
Roger
YES...heat and patience. Work slowly or go and cut out what you do not care about if possible. but on cars that I am trying to save an exterior panel...I use heat and get it to loosen and slowly work my way to completion.
With the one flange at the door opening...and the other one forward of it at the firewall plenum...this area sis tough because you have two flanges so close to one another....then you have the vent to contend with...but it will come out. Takes a bit of thinking on what you can use to slightly apply pressure when you get the panels to separate but not so much that you crack the panel.
And actually...if you have an infrared thermometer....you can test the factory adhesive with a heat gun and see how hot you have to get it to release. I do this also....aids in taking the 'guess-work' out of knowing if the panel and adhesive is hot enough or not.
My continued quest to free up the adhesive around the front clip of the donor car. When it comes time to work on the clip I try to stay calm and relaxed. It is a very slow and deliberate task and DUB is so right. PATIENCE IS GOLDEN!!
Finally freed up the section running along the frame by body mount #1. It is very difficult to even get to. Heated it up from a distance from underneath. DUB said you may have to get creative with your tools, so I did. The only way I was able to get to that spot and release the adhesive was with an old slim Jim that I had. Worked like a charm. The last piece on the passenger side will be the plenum extension. That will be fun also anyway, thanks again DUB.
Roger
AWESOME...now you have a tool that look like many I have in a box.
Glad to read that you are keeping a clear head. And using your head and figuring out problems. Getting frustrated or impatient is never good. That is when something will happen...and then you regret it later. Gosh knows...I have done that more times than I can count. Nothing is better than accomplishing a task that made you work for it....not only mentally...but physically. You have to have 'problem solving' capabilities.
AWESOME...now you have a tool that look like many I have in a box.
Glad to read that you are keeping a clear head. And using your head and figuring out problems. Getting frustrated or impatient is never good. That is when something will happen...and then you regret it later. Gosh knows...I have done that more times than I can count. Nothing is better than accomplishing a task that made you work for it....not only mentally...but physically. You have to have 'problem solving' capabilities.
DUB
Your Right DUB, I find myself only working on the clip when I am in the right frame of mind. I have plenty to do and removing the clip will just take time, it's as simple as that. Thanks man for all your knowledge and support.
Roger
Freed at last. I did it DUB, got the passenger side completely freed from all the adhesive points. That plenum area is tuff but doable as you well know. Nothing broke and stayed in one piece. A little touchup by the upper windshield area. Most of the drivers side is free except for the plenum area. I have learned a lot and will attack that area soon. Thanks for all your support and advice.
R
Hard to see but the wiper door is up and the panel is even with it.
AWESOME...I HAD NO DOUBTS you could do it. Having PATIENCE is so important.
When you go to pull this clip. I would HIGHLY ADVISE that you cut a piece of wood or something and attach it across the hood surround at the top if the firewall plenum area...so it does not break. They can snap in a second.
Finally I can go tomorrow and pick up the heater for the garage. That will get things rolling again. Oh hey DUB I also picked up an infra red gizmo to tell me how hot things get when I jump back on removing the drivers side. I think that will help a lot. Thanks for the suggestion
R
Finally I can go tomorrow and pick up the heater for the garage. That will get things rolling again. Oh hey DUB I also picked up an infra red gizmo to tell me how hot things get when I jump back on removing the drivers side. I think that will help a lot. Thanks for the suggestion
R
The tool will come in handy in other areas also. But I use it and it helps me out. Somewhat takes the guess work out of know how hot I am getting something.
FREE AT LAST THE DONOR CLIP IS FREE AT LAST.
Man that was neat to have the last small piece on the drivers side release. Nothing busted or cracked. Merry Christmas to me, Thanks Santa, oh yeah and you too DUB.
Roger
DO not forget to clamp something across the engine compartment that is rather solid...so the thin narrow section of fiberglass that goes across the top of the firewall area does not crack.
DO not forget to clamp something across the engine compartment that is rather solid...so the thin narrow section of fiberglass that goes across the top of the firewall area does not crack.
That is if you are worried about that at all.
DUB
Yeah you are right I forgot about that . Will do tomorrow. Thanks for all your help and tips DUB. Merry Christmas !
R
Okay I am not up to this part yet but was wondering if I built an 8 point dollie that had the proper support at all body mount locations if I could install the front clip and do my body work and painting on it. Maybe I need to put the body on the frame mount the clip and then remove the whole unit and put it on a dollie. DUB?
Roger
I do all my bodywork when the body is on the frame and secured as if it were ready to drive down the road.
I have methods of protecting the frame if it has been powdercoated and such.
I get my gaps and panels flush and I prefer NOT having to worry about shimming and anything that can effect what I work so hard to get looking really good.
Not only that...I have seen Corvettes that were having the body being set back on the frame after it was painted and buffed and looking really good...and a mishap occurred and it had to be repaired and painted. I choose to take that possibility out of the scenario.
The body dollies I have are so I can get under the body and do all floorboard repairs and restoration stuff.
I do all my bodywork when the body is on the frame and secured as if it were ready to drive down the road.
I have methods of protecting the frame if it has been powdercoated and such.
I get my gaps and panels flush and I prefer NOT having to worry about shimming and anything that can effect what I work so hard to get looking really good.
Not only that...I have seen Corvettes that were having the body being set back on the frame after it was painted and buffed and looking really good...and a mishap occurred and it had to be repaired and painted. I choose to take that possibility out of the scenario.
The body dollies I have are so I can get under the body and do all floorboard repairs and restoration stuff.
Just my opinion or way I do it..
DUB
Okay DUB, you bring up some good points that I didn't think of. I am sure there are many options, but I will err on the side of caution and probably do everything once the car is back on the chassis.
Thank You
Front Clip Removal
The tool will come in handy in other areas also. But I use it and it helps me out. Somewhat takes the guess work out of know how hot I am getting something.
