I'm removing the seam from my 61 firewall. I started by laminating 3 layers of mat on the inside. I'm filling the holes on this side with VPA. I'm thinking I should put at least 2 layers of mat on this side to keep it from cracking in the future. Input?

 

Laminating on the firewall side is not needed...( I know I would not)...but you can if you want.

The reason is due to you reinforcing the backside with 3 layers ....AND.... depending on how much overlap the two panel have on the backside where they bonded together (for example 1 inch or so)...filling the outside firewall surface with the VPA will do just fine.

Have you looked at the John Lingenfelter thread in the paint and body section. Because I do show how you can use mat with VPA.

IF you did choose to apply a layer of mat over this seam on the firewall side. You do understand that you would have to grind it down to be able to fill it back in...and doing so..it would depend on your grinding. OR... if you laminated directly on top of this firewall seam area...then you would have to finish it out in VPA and it would actually be thicker...which is not bad.

I seriously doubt that this area would have enough movement to cause for any cracks to start.

You are there and I am not so I do not know how stout it is...all I can comment on is what I can see in a photo.

DUB

 

Yes I've read the Lingenfelter thread, I think I'm good for about 200 of the views on it. If you recall I asked if there was gonna be a test at the end. This is my test. If you look towards the left side of the second pic you'll see some of the remaining flange that used to go across so there is no overlap of the top and bottom they are stacked and that flange was cemented. Anywhere over 1/2" holes I put the VPA and wet and layered a piece of mat in the hole and then covered over again when th VPA. Based on your advise I believe I will put 1 layer of mat on and then finish with VPA. I can't thank you enough for that thread. Like I mentioned in it I had never heard of VPA before. This is actually going a lot easier than I had anticipated. After this I will start laminating in my GTS quarter panels. That however is NOT going to be easy. I'll have to make my own bonding strips as there are none for that.

Thanks again Dub,
Robert

 

There will be no test at the end of the Lingenfelter thread....even though that is not a bad idea.

Knowing that you cut off the extended flange area that oyu mentioned that are still being able to be seen in the second photo. THEN YES...laminating it up on the backside like you did is correct.

Actually I will sandwich in some fiberglass cloth between the layers of mat to give it more linear strength.

IF you want make it SUPER DUPER DUPER strong...you can laminate in some foam that is shaped like a half round molding you would use for baseboard molding of your house. 'Doorgunner' used this advise in his thread and it strengthened the rear compartment area to the point he could stand on it and it would not move. I will be showing how using this 'half round' idea in the Lingenfelter thread soon where I am working on the rear battery area.

These 'half rounds' do not have to be huge...and if you choose to do it you can run one horizontally and then like three or four vertical ones that pass across it.

The foam I use is the type that florists use when they jamb fake flowers in an arrangement. It has everything to do with you creating angles and shapes to give the area strength.

DUB

 

Look at post #2826 on PAGE 142

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...oject-142.html

DUB

 

Man I'm gonna have to send you hug on Fed ex. I was wondering how I would mount my Vintage Air without drilling holes in the firewall. I'll just laminate in some strips and attach to them. Two birds with one patch.

Many many thanks

 

glad to do what I can.

YES..as long as what you plan on attaching the Vintage Air to is WORTHY of being a good sound surface for mounting....not knowing what method of mounting you plan on using.

I always try to use a method of fastening that makes SERVICING the part easier of I have to get back into it and take it out.

So even if I had to employ some custom 'hooks' (so-to-speak) that would allow me to hook and allow the inner unit to hang so I can then install my bolts... I would do that...VERSUS...having to hold the whole unit and FIGHT trying to get one screw in. So it all depends.

DUB