Hello, I`m new to the forum and even newer to spraying paint. I have a 74 coupe. I`m looking at this kit from Summit Racing.
DeVilbiss 802343 HVLP Paint Gun Kit for Primer, Color, & Clear Coat Application 1.3, 1.5, and 1.8 mm tips for multiple paint types. I have a 5hp 80 gallon tank compressor that go`s up to 150lbs pressure. will this work ? It will be awhile before I actually start painting and then it will only be a one time thing. also what kind of adapter is needed to use the Dekups system with this unit ?

 

Here is my little review of the Sata gun I use.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...p-awesome.html

 

That set is decent, a friend of mine uses them. You can get some real good results. Practice on some test panels to get the hang of it and the adjustments.

 

Will the compressor be ok ?

 

I can buy a Sata 4000 used for $200 locally but I would have to take a strangers word that it is in good shape other than the digital pressure gauge not working. would it be better for me even though I know nothing about about spray guns. could a novice pick up on it?

 

If you are planning on this being a'one-time' usage thing...use them and just practice on other things first....or spend the major buck on high dollar paint guns like I have....but I do it for a living and it matters to me...but if my good guns failed and I had that DeVillbliss kit at my shop....I know I could adjust the guns and keep spraying...but I have the benefit of decades of painting and knowing how I need to get my paint to look when it is sprayed....which is why you need to practice.

Not knowing what type of paint you are going to sue and all that...you can adjust that gun kit so it should allow you to apply a decent paint job....BUT....that will ALL depends on you testing and using the guns BEFORE you go and paint your car.

As for IF your air compressor is good enough....no way in telling. See how your compressor is rated. You need to see how many CFM's the guns will take and if your compressor can keep up.

Also...you want to make sure that when you are painting that your compressor is not getting water in it and thus....you shoot water out of the gun while painting....because you do not have the appropriate moisture/oil traps and separators. An 80 gallon tank should be okay...but a lot of it depends on how many CFM's the guns will eat up...and how many times your compressor runs during priming/painting.

DUB

 

Thanks Dub. That is best answer i have heard yet. I dont plan on this being a career. I`m a retired carpenter and bought this old Corvette to have something to do. I do want to do a good paint job. I`ll take your advice and get the kit from Summit. An expensive spray gu

 

Well I guess I`m screwed. I checked My compressor and it`s rated at 14 CFM and from what I`ve read thats to small for spray guns.

 

check into an iwata lph400 . uses very little air and resale would be good.
18 to 26 lbs for clear around 12 for base .

 

If my compressor has a 14 CFM would it mean I can use this gun that the specs say 30 PSI inlet pressure delivers 10 PSI air cap pressure at 13 CFM air volume ?

 

i have ran my shop for year with only a 5hp compressor. it runs my iwata with no problems.
or at least i did . my champion died and i replaced it with an IR and i dont think it is quite up to snuff.

 

Thanks everyone. I just bought the one at the top of the page.

 

Chances are you are not going to be holding the trigger on the paint gun all the time. I also have a 5HP air compressor and my Sata HVLP's do just fine...but I also know when I am painting I am not in a hurry and I have slight 'down time' while painting which can allow the compressor to build up again and shut off. So if I have a door hanging and I shot one door...when I walk to the other side of the booth for the other door hanging there...I do not rush.

Regardless of that...the air pressure regulator I have in my booth never gets so low on air pressure and volume of air that it causes a problem.

I do not feel you should ahve a problem where you compress is running all the time....THAT is what you do not want to happen....your compressor not being able to build up pressure and shut off.

A simple test....get your gun set as your need it to be and you do not even need paint in it. Have your compressor fully charged and pull the trigger on your paint gun and begin to time out how long it takes for the compressor to come on. THAT will give you the amount of time you know you can paint before the compressor comes on.

Then see how long it makes for the compressor to turn off.

Then the next test is to get the compressor to come on by pulling the trigger....and then while it is filling back up. Stop for a fee moments and then begin to act like you are painting. Becasue when you are painting...you will stop and let off the trigger at the end of panel or whatever and then pull the trigger again...and then stop and walk around to the other side of a panel or whatever.

Doing this will let you see if the compressor is able to fill up while doing this so you have no concerns that it is not big enough...because you can adjust your painting procedure to compensate for this if needed....once you know what your compressor can do or not do.
And if you now know how you need to paint the car...that can also aid oyu in the choice of the grade of reducer and or hardener so when you are giving the compressor time to fill back up...your paint will still 'melt in' to itself and not give you dry spray.

Not wanting you to be paranoid that the compressor is coming on..because I know you know it has to...the main thing is to not have it constantly running and the pressure/volume is too low and your paint starts to sputter/pulsing coming out of the gun...which can happen on a super cheap 1hp 20 gallon compressor that can not do anything but air up tires.

DUB

 

The compressor pumps up to 155 lbs. If I need 30lbs at the gun and I adjust the compressor to come on at 60 or 70 lbs I think it should be fine after talking to you (Dub). I`m doing a lot of reading and watching you-tube on painting and prep. I know I gotta lot to learn but I have a lot of time to do it. Painting surface has to be at a temperature thats good for the paint and by the time I`m ready to paint it will be winter and my heater in the garage has an open flame so I may have to wait till next year. But thats ok, at least now I`ve taken the first step buying the spray guns. Gotta lot more to get to be ready.

 

Is it a two stage compressor?

 

If your compressor is set to pump up to 155 psi. DO NOT set it to pump up to 60-70 psi. Leave it at the factory pre-set if that is what it was set to.

You also have to worry about pressure drop from your hose coming off the compressor. if you plumb it with piping and then ahve a regulator where you plan on painting..and then have a hose attached AFTER the regulator. A 50 foot hose will cause the pressure to drop....if you added another 50 foot hose...it drops even more and so on.

You are not only worried about air pressure but VOLUME of air also....which is why having an 80 gallon tank is to you advantage.

And taking the steps to make sure that your compressor is giving you DRY AIR when you paint is also a VERY GOOD thing to make sure is good. And the obvious oil separators. I use my pencil blower and blow air onto a mirror and see if it fogs up or if I see small pellets of water.

Drain your compressor of air at the end of the day that it is used....or don't..... and see what can happen in time.

DUB

 

The compressor shuts off at 155 now.But if I set it to kick back on at say 60, 70, 80 or what ever it should maintain air enough for spraying. I think! I`m just thinking out loud right now.The guns will be here next week I`ll experiment and see what I come up with. I`v been reading posts on here about the piping and will begin working on that next. My compressor is a single stage.

 

By changing the setting to a lower psi (60,70 or 80 psi)...what will happen is that your compressor will come on a lot more frequently due to you will thus use up the little bit of pressure you have built up in the tank...and by doing that...that means your compressors is working more...thus building up heat...which when cooled will create WATER which is what you do not want.

I cannot do anything here but provide advice from what I know works for me at my shop...and if tests are not preformed when suggested and moisture is not eliminated by investing in components that can do that.....then when the paint job has problems in it after the fact or while painting...I can not help you. It seems that you are going to pipe it and make in the best it can be.....and that is a smart thing to do.

And thinking that the 'filter *****' that thread onto the end of your paint gun is a wise method to remove moisture....I would disagree....mainly because I would not trust them IF I know that I have a moisture problem coming out of the end of the hose where I connect my paint gun. I have way too much time and effort invested into getting a body ready for paint for me to trust something like that...and I do not feel that buying case of them and changing them out quite often is a cost effective way for me to paint professionally....but...DIY'ers have their own views on this.

If you are plumbing pipes for your air lines...make sure you have a grade on them so the moisture can collect and flow to a point where you have a drain. By doing this...you are not relying on just draining the compressor to get the moisture out.

DUB