Dave Tracy

2 weeks ago the "second dip" was completed on my '64. PPG DCC urethane was used as a single stage. Of course there is crap from the environment in the paint in spite of a home built spray booth and filters. From 10 feet it looks gorgeous. Today I started working on a door to polish it. I started with 1000 grit paper with a hard block for the flat areas and a pad for the curved areas. I used a Sharpie as a guide coat to be assured that the surface was smooth. This was then followed by 1500, 2000, 3000 and 5000 paper and Chemical Guys 4 polishes with orange, then white, then black foam pads. The distortions are not noticeable when the surface is only sanded; only after there is a high shine. When I assessed the finish on the lower flat portion of the door, I can see that the surface has imperfections by the distortion of the light reflections. I mark the area in question with the Sharpie, sand the area with a hard block and 2000 grit paper until the mark is removed, polish and the imperfection is still present. Of course, my face is about 6" away from the surface. During the prep with the build coats, a guide coat was used to apparent perfection. Any suggestions to address this other than booze or psych meds or both. The reality of this may be that my expectations far exceed my abilities, which I may have to accept. Thank you in advance.

DUB

I know that when I sand down clear....and I can see that I got out the orange peel and any minor specks if lint. When I buff it...there are times when I can look a the panel from an angle and using one of my florescent lights...so I can see how 'crisp' the reflection of the bulb is in the finish... I can see that there is as slight bit of texture in the finish.

By no means am I disputing what you have done...but I know I rarely sand with any paper with a grit higher than 3000. 99.5% of the time....I stop at 2000 grit.

Keep in mind I have been doing this way before these higher grits became available. And knowing how to buff when the finish is at 2000 grit..I have it mastered where I have no swirls or any sand scratches when completed. I knwo some may prefer to sand up to 5000 grit...but I do not have the time to do that when if I did two panels...one my way and the other all the way up to 5000 grit and buffed/polished them...you could not tell which panel was done which way. So I prefer to save my time in not having to sand and I can buff it out much faster. SO when it comes to that....to each his/her own.

Also keep in mind that the paint you used is hard...and even if you use your 'Sharpie' as a guide. A lot of it has to do with how much pressure you are applying on the paint when you are blocking. Often times very light to moderate pressure works better to get that distortion out. Like you are basically allowing the paper to glide over the paint. If you are pressing too hard on the paint...then the sandpaper can not 'hone' down the finish. Think of it like machining a part. Cutting off .0001" on a specific material MAY be what is needed in order to ensure that it is ABSOLUTELY FLAT.

A lot has to do with how long you allowed the last paint job to dry before you began sanding on it. I give teh paint/clear 16 hours at ambient air temps ( if a 2K type paint) and then I get to sanding. I am not worried about buffing it...but I want it sanded...and with the paint 'open cut' due to being sanded...I feel it aids it in drying out a bit more so when I buff it...the clear is crystal clear when I am done and not foggy/hazy looking.

For what it is worth....I do use foam pads...but not when I am starting out. I use a wool pad....with a compound with a bit of grit to it. I know other people do it other ways and may disagree...but I know how to use what I use with great results...and those that use the foam pads and these creams that are offered may also have the same great success.

DUB

Dave Tracy

Thank you DUB. Since I have the rest of the car to do, I'll try stopping at 2000. I have a wool pad and some "grittier" compound. Pictures to follow when I'm (if ever) satisfied.

DUB

Dave,

Did you by chance...while painting your Corvette...also shoot a test panel that you can practice on???

PLEASE do not change what you feel comfortable with...in regards to stopping at a specific grit.

I am not feeding you a load of crap because how I wrote it is how I do it...so if you do it the way I wrote...test a small spot first.

Also...keep in mind that I have a Makita variable speed buffer...and the amount of compound....the speed of my pad and the amount of pressure I apply are also variables. I DO NOT have my buffer on the highest setting.

DUB

Dave Tracy

As a follow up on your advise DUB, I resanded the lower portion of the door with 1500 then hit it with a wool pad and compound followed by the Chemical Guys V32-38 series polishes. Your advise improved the appearance by about 80%! I am satisfied (currently) with the results. I too have a Makita polisher and used it on "1" which is 1500 rpm and a Porter-Cable orbital polisher. I do have a test panel that has multiple coats of both paint and primer that I check my gun with. Don't think that would be much help. Thank you for your time to reply.

porchdog

dave, while polishing avoid excessive heat. it will kill the gloss .

DUB

I am glad that my suggestion helped.

What is style number on your Makita polisher??? Reason being...on mine...'1' is turning really slow. I never paid any attention to reading the book on my polisher due to I 'kinda' know what I am looking for when I set it.

1000%

Which is why on my variable speed buffer.... I am not overly concerned about how fast the pad spins....but I do feel the paint from time to time and make sure that it is not HOT but it can be warm.

DUB

Dave Tracy

Life has been in the way to get back to you DUB. This is a photo of my polisher information.




This is a sticker on the machine that indicates the speed at each setting.

DUB

Thanks Dave,

Not that it matters at this point....I will get back to you tomorrow and see what model number I have.

DUB