Paint Question For Front and Rear Bumper on '74
10-09-2017, 10:19 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Paint Question For Front and Rear Bumper on '74
I need an opinion from you all. Recently bought my '74 and have been wiping down the paint with a product that is not abrasive but I just assumed the paint on it was basecoat clearcoat. I was wrong. I recently tried another product and saw color coming off last week. So now that I know its a single stage paint here is my question. I am replacing my original bumpers with Truflex bumpers and need to know your thoughts on what I should paint them with... 2-stage or single stage paint. What ever paint my car was shot with, its pretty amazing looking. It stumped my paint store expert when I brought the T-top in to make a custom batch for me using basecoat/clearcoat. So already I have the 2-stage custom mix in a pint can but I'm unsure about using it for fear the sheen factor and look will be different. Thoughts on what you all would do?
PS. Trying to contact the PO to see if he knows.
PS. Trying to contact the PO to see if he knows.
10-10-2017, 09:57 AM
#2
Pro
Thread Starter
I need an opinion from you all. Recently bought my '74 and have been wiping down the paint with a product that is not abrasive but I just assumed the paint on it was basecoat clearcoat. I was wrong. I recently tried another product and saw color coming off last week. So now that I know its a single stage paint here is my question. I am replacing my original bumpers with Truflex bumpers and need to know your thoughts on what I should paint them with... 2-stage or single stage paint. What ever paint my car was shot with, its pretty amazing looking. It stumped my paint store expert when I brought the T-top in to make a custom batch for me using basecoat/clearcoat. So already I have the 2-stage custom mix in a pint can but I'm unsure about using it for fear the sheen factor and look will be different. Thoughts on what you all would do?
PS. Trying to contact the PO to see if he knows.
PS. Trying to contact the PO to see if he knows.
PO says he believes the entire car was shot with enamel. Who ever did it was a master at their trade. So the question remains...shoot with basecoat/clearcoat or enamel like the rest of the car?
10-10-2017, 05:23 PM
#4
Race Director
Being a single stage enamel...I have to assume that the color is solid color???? I never assume that a persons avatar of a Corvette is their Corvette.
The advantage/disatgantage that a basecaot clear coat had going for it is this.
The clear protects the actual color that is applied....that is what is good. Generally clearcoat MUST be applied on thick enough to have any protection against the UV's of the sun. The product information sheet that is available from the paint store you go that paint from will tell you how to shoot the color and clear and how thick (mil thickness) the clear should be.
That is bad about clear.,..and it can happen on solid colors and also metallic colors is that IF excessive coats of clear are applied...it can change the actual color.
You are....as what we painters call.... 'butt-matching' the paint. Meaning you are painting a panel and bolting it against a panel that is still in the original color of the car and you are not painting that panel.
SO...due to you are not 'blending ' into the adjacent panel...your color really needs to be really close.
And why clear coat can cause a problem is that even though we all think clear is clear...well...it is not 100% clear.....and even if it was.....think of it like this.
If you were high up in high rise hotel and looking down on a sunny day at the swimming pool....it is kinda funny how the deep end is a darker blue than the shallow end is a much lighter blue...and we all know they paint the bottom of the pool all the same light blue . AND knowing that water is clear....the depth (thickness) of the water makes the lighter blue look darker....because the light is being effected. SO....like i wrote...excessive coats of clear can change a color.
This is why...regardless of the custom mix that the guy mixed for you....you need to shoot test panel and verify how the color looks.
In my opinion...shooting it back to a single stage color or basecoat/clearcoat really does not matter as long as test panels are shot and the end result can be achieved and match what is currently on the car.
Best of luck on getting the 'flex' bumper to fit. I prefer to use the rigid fiberglass bumpers myself...but like I have written before...that is because I was installing the rigid fiberglass bumpers way before they came out with the 'flex' design...and mastered how to do it.
If interested...check this out.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-corvette.html
DUB
The advantage/disatgantage that a basecaot clear coat had going for it is this.
The clear protects the actual color that is applied....that is what is good. Generally clearcoat MUST be applied on thick enough to have any protection against the UV's of the sun. The product information sheet that is available from the paint store you go that paint from will tell you how to shoot the color and clear and how thick (mil thickness) the clear should be.
That is bad about clear.,..and it can happen on solid colors and also metallic colors is that IF excessive coats of clear are applied...it can change the actual color.
You are....as what we painters call.... 'butt-matching' the paint. Meaning you are painting a panel and bolting it against a panel that is still in the original color of the car and you are not painting that panel.
SO...due to you are not 'blending ' into the adjacent panel...your color really needs to be really close.
And why clear coat can cause a problem is that even though we all think clear is clear...well...it is not 100% clear.....and even if it was.....think of it like this.
If you were high up in high rise hotel and looking down on a sunny day at the swimming pool....it is kinda funny how the deep end is a darker blue than the shallow end is a much lighter blue...and we all know they paint the bottom of the pool all the same light blue . AND knowing that water is clear....the depth (thickness) of the water makes the lighter blue look darker....because the light is being effected. SO....like i wrote...excessive coats of clear can change a color.
This is why...regardless of the custom mix that the guy mixed for you....you need to shoot test panel and verify how the color looks.
In my opinion...shooting it back to a single stage color or basecoat/clearcoat really does not matter as long as test panels are shot and the end result can be achieved and match what is currently on the car.
Best of luck on getting the 'flex' bumper to fit. I prefer to use the rigid fiberglass bumpers myself...but like I have written before...that is because I was installing the rigid fiberglass bumpers way before they came out with the 'flex' design...and mastered how to do it.
If interested...check this out.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-corvette.html
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 10-10-2017 at 05:24 PM.
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