77e, are all these parts SMC? and did I pick the right resin?
09-12-2018, 05:19 PM
#41
Yea, when someone uses 1/1,000,0000 of an inch in trying to explain how much binder is in there they really know what they are talking about to make a point. Dub can we get that in a percentage? Is that 1/1,000,000 of an inch per square inch, square foot? Maybe a ratio of how many parts binder that is per x amount resin? Now that we have gone this far, can we get a product number or link to the mat you use?
09-12-2018, 06:12 PM
#42
Race Director
OBVIOUSLY you can not grasp the content of what I wrote and cannot understand that it has to deal with FILM THICKNESS....BECAUSE it is a COATING. So you using a square inch or square foot is a joke because you obviously have no clue on what you are talking about.
There is NO HELP for you and your are painting yourself into a corner on how well received you are in your replies.
Keep it up...your thread count is climbing up and with all of the posts you make that provide useful information...everybody will know you as the 'go to guy' when they need to know how to fix their Corvette because you have 10 years in boat repair but basically very little to no knowledge in how to fix a Corvette.
Funny thing about people who no longer have anything intellectual to add to a discussion.....they have to revert to beign a smart @ss. That really shows a lack of class and a juvenile behavior.
DUB
There is NO HELP for you and your are painting yourself into a corner on how well received you are in your replies.
Keep it up...your thread count is climbing up and with all of the posts you make that provide useful information...everybody will know you as the 'go to guy' when they need to know how to fix their Corvette because you have 10 years in boat repair but basically very little to no knowledge in how to fix a Corvette.
Funny thing about people who no longer have anything intellectual to add to a discussion.....they have to revert to beign a smart @ss. That really shows a lack of class and a juvenile behavior.
DUB
09-12-2018, 06:33 PM
#43
OBVIOUSLY you can not grasp the content of what I wrote and cannot understand that it has to deal with FILM THICKNESS....BECAUSE it is a COATING. So you using a square inch or square foot is a joke because you obviously have no clue on what you are talking about.
There is NO HELP for you and your are painting yourself into a corner on how well received you are in your replies.
Keep it up...your thread count is climbing up and with all of the posts you make that provide useful information...everybody will know you as the 'go to guy' when they need to know how to fix their Corvette because you have 10 years in boat repair but basically very little to no knowledge in how to fix a Corvette.
Funny thing about people who no longer have anything intellectual to add to a discussion.....they have to revert to beign a smart @ss. That really shows a lack of class and a juvenile behavior.
DUB
There is NO HELP for you and your are painting yourself into a corner on how well received you are in your replies.
Keep it up...your thread count is climbing up and with all of the posts you make that provide useful information...everybody will know you as the 'go to guy' when they need to know how to fix their Corvette because you have 10 years in boat repair but basically very little to no knowledge in how to fix a Corvette.
Funny thing about people who no longer have anything intellectual to add to a discussion.....they have to revert to beign a smart @ss. That really shows a lack of class and a juvenile behavior.
DUB
09-12-2018, 06:59 PM
#44
Race Director
.......product link or number please. Your the one saying the 1/1,000,000th of an inch of binder in the resin but leave out important details, maybe you shouldn’t of said it... your the one that can’t comprehend that if I took 10 different mats from different manufacturers, every one of them would have a different amount of binder in them, which DOES not dissolve in EPOXY because epoxy contains no STYRENE. You realize that if it’s a boat, or a fiberglass body it doesn’t mater, and if you were to do a epoxy repair with a mat that says not compatible with epoxy in a boat yard, or did a polyester repair on top of epoxy you would be fired instantly.
Now...if this 1/1,000,00th of an inch is messing with your head.,..then you tell me how thick the binder coating is ??? Take a guess. Not much at all. But REGARDLESS...you STILL can not tell me that the fibers and resin would shift or shear when the resin has set up...so you are STILL missing the entire issue here and that is...getting the resin and fibers to come together and create what is needed. WHICH IT WILL.
I do not care if it does not dissolve due to it does NOT MATTER IF you know what you are doing., Obviously...you do what YOU feel is good for you. Because this is obviously way out of your abilities to do and comprehend. Just like you making carbon fiber parts where steel parts were originally. AND THAT is okay by you. But some would see it as a crappy way of doing it and it is a 'Bubba repair'
I do not care about what is done in the boat repair industry.. This is a CORVETTE....and composite panel manufacturing for a jet airplane is more involved than what you do on a boat...so you would be fired from them if you made parts for an airplane with your mentality on what is approved for a boat. Vacuum bagging and all that...because I SERIOUSLY DOUBT that you do any vacuum bagging when you put stuff on a boat.
DUB
.
09-12-2018, 11:41 PM
#46
You are hopeless..becasue we have been down this read before. You are getting like broken record that skips all the time....because ALL of the mat I have used that had the binder coating on it that is so thin that I can EASILY stress the fibers and get the binder to loosen up. You must have never used it so you ahve no clue on how it actually is.
Now...if this 1/1,000,00th of an inch is messing with your head.,..then you tell me how thick the binder coating is ??? Take a guess. Not much at all. But REGARDLESS...you STILL can not tell me that the fibers and resin would shift or shear when the resin has set up...so you are STILL missing the entire issue here and that is...getting the resin and fibers to come together and create what is needed. WHICH IT WILL.
I do not care if it does not dissolve due to it does NOT MATTER IF you know what you are doing., Obviously...you do what YOU feel is good for you. Because this is obviously way out of your abilities to do and comprehend. Just like you making carbon fiber parts where steel parts were originally. AND THAT is okay by you. But some would see it as a crappy way of doing it and it is a 'Bubba repair'
I do not care about what is done in the boat repair industry.. This is a CORVETTE....and composite panel manufacturing for a jet airplane is more involved than what you do on a boat...so you would be fired from them if you made parts for an airplane with your mentality on what is approved for a boat. Vacuum bagging and all that...because I SERIOUSLY DOUBT that you do any vacuum bagging when you put stuff on a boat.
DUB
.
Now...if this 1/1,000,00th of an inch is messing with your head.,..then you tell me how thick the binder coating is ??? Take a guess. Not much at all. But REGARDLESS...you STILL can not tell me that the fibers and resin would shift or shear when the resin has set up...so you are STILL missing the entire issue here and that is...getting the resin and fibers to come together and create what is needed. WHICH IT WILL.
I do not care if it does not dissolve due to it does NOT MATTER IF you know what you are doing., Obviously...you do what YOU feel is good for you. Because this is obviously way out of your abilities to do and comprehend. Just like you making carbon fiber parts where steel parts were originally. AND THAT is okay by you. But some would see it as a crappy way of doing it and it is a 'Bubba repair'
I do not care about what is done in the boat repair industry.. This is a CORVETTE....and composite panel manufacturing for a jet airplane is more involved than what you do on a boat...so you would be fired from them if you made parts for an airplane with your mentality on what is approved for a boat. Vacuum bagging and all that...because I SERIOUSLY DOUBT that you do any vacuum bagging when you put stuff on a boat.
DUB
.
Corvette or not that it is still a FIBERGLASS part, it still came out of a mold just like any other fiberglass production part. It is still repaired the same, your using West Systems epoxy designed for the marine industry for f sakes, and your going to discredit my knowledge of materials because I have my fiberglass experience from the boat industry? I would garentee that I have used more different materials building boats from production sailboats, power boats, to custom carbon/Kevlar infused sports fishing boats, than you ever will and know what to use where depending on what I am trying to achieve. You think it’s hard work fairing out a body on a vette, try fairing our a 56’ sports fishing boat or building the plug to build a mold for a boat deck.
Last edited by derekd8915; 09-13-2018 at 12:18 AM.
09-13-2018, 09:32 AM
#47
Race Director
You can not seem to answer the questions in the second paragraph in the post you quoted. *****CRICKETS**** No answer due to you more than likely realize you have to switch the subject matter and make it all about YOU again....and what YOU want everybody to know that you know but you can not answer those questions. This is a joke...rather...you are making me laugh due to you dodge questions.
We are like playing chess and you just realized that you are getting backed into position where there is no way in winning. Just topple your King over and call it a day. OR...answer the questions on how thick you feel the binder coating actually is. Because I KNOW it is not thick at all due to I can get the fibers loose with ease. Or is it that you are JUST one of those people who cannot admit when they are.....wrong about something and ANOTHER way is possible...and has been stated by 'porchdog' also..
Who is trying to discredit you in what you do with boats. Once again YOU read into what is written and take out of it what you think it is all about. HOW you fix a boat is one thing....How a Corvette panel is repaired CAN be entirely different and MAY NOT need to be taken to the extremes due to the LACK of stress and pressures in the area of repair. That is where KNOWING how to repair a certain area is helpful. Or you can laminate up a 1/4" of material if you see fit. I do not care.
And do not fool yourself when it comes to what I know and how to use carbon fiber and KEVLAR and keeping a nitro funny car body holding together when it goes down the track at over 300 mph...or gets incredible tire shake.. I have repaired my fair share of boats...like I have written before... so do not think YOU are the only one who has experience in repairing an area of a boat where a blown 454 Chevy engine sits that was damaged. This thread is not about that.
Who cares if WEST SYSTEMS is made for the boat industry or not. It is still a resin that can be used. HECK.....I can use ADTECH resin if I wanted to. No different than if I use SEM, LORD FUSOR, PLIOGRIP, 3M or DURAMIX for my structural adhesives.
DUB
We are like playing chess and you just realized that you are getting backed into position where there is no way in winning. Just topple your King over and call it a day. OR...answer the questions on how thick you feel the binder coating actually is. Because I KNOW it is not thick at all due to I can get the fibers loose with ease. Or is it that you are JUST one of those people who cannot admit when they are.....wrong about something and ANOTHER way is possible...and has been stated by 'porchdog' also..
Who is trying to discredit you in what you do with boats. Once again YOU read into what is written and take out of it what you think it is all about. HOW you fix a boat is one thing....How a Corvette panel is repaired CAN be entirely different and MAY NOT need to be taken to the extremes due to the LACK of stress and pressures in the area of repair. That is where KNOWING how to repair a certain area is helpful. Or you can laminate up a 1/4" of material if you see fit. I do not care.
And do not fool yourself when it comes to what I know and how to use carbon fiber and KEVLAR and keeping a nitro funny car body holding together when it goes down the track at over 300 mph...or gets incredible tire shake.. I have repaired my fair share of boats...like I have written before... so do not think YOU are the only one who has experience in repairing an area of a boat where a blown 454 Chevy engine sits that was damaged. This thread is not about that.
Who cares if WEST SYSTEMS is made for the boat industry or not. It is still a resin that can be used. HECK.....I can use ADTECH resin if I wanted to. No different than if I use SEM, LORD FUSOR, PLIOGRIP, 3M or DURAMIX for my structural adhesives.
DUB
09-13-2018, 09:49 AM
#48
The binder is different depending on the manufacturer, so we first need to know a specific mat you use, which is the question you are dodging. You say use the mat available where West Systems is sold. Well just in my area, there is three fiberglass supply stores that sell West Systems and each one sells mat from a different manufacturer and they all contain a different amount of binder.
09-13-2018, 10:15 AM
#49
Drifting
dub , i believe this is a troll . every post is to stir up something . he definitely is not a corvette guy . so far the only pics are of a poor attempt at custom bodywork on a mustang. ignore him guys and he will tire and go away .
09-13-2018, 10:31 AM
#50
Race Director
So pick the one with the thickest binder coating mats that you have at your disposal and take a guess on how thick it is. REGARDLESS of any of them...the binder coating is not so thick that the mat is a rigid sheet like some of the fiberglass veil I have that is ultra thin but rigid/stiff...but still can be rolled up.. But we are not talking about veil. And if you are planning on choosing the one that is really coated. I bet if I had it in my hand I could break up that coating and use it successfully.
Does that make me better than you....it all depends on how a person wants to look at it. Obviously you would feel that I am doing it wrong...but I do not care what you think. And funny as it may be.. I could laminate up two parts...one with the binder coating on it and one without and I BET you could not tell which one was done with which one....even if you put them through a stress test. So do not think that you are all that....because you are clearly not all that. Keep in mind I know the difference in the mat and I KNOW how to use it. THAT is what you seem to be forgetting.
Like I wrote....the binder coating on the mat I use is so thin....I can distress it with ease an get it to be JUST LIKE the mat I have that is not coated in the binder. AND THAT is what this is all about... making sure the resin can get into the fibers.
So giving you a manufacturer and part number is POINTLESS...thus....dodging the issue once again.
You are so hung up on this when this has been well played out. Like it has been written...you use what you want....you have expressed WHAT YOU THINK and then other people have also expressed what THEY THINK.. No one is telling you to do it their way...but for some odd reason. You just can not accept that other people have found a way to do it differently than what YOU do and you just can not grasp that. OH MY GOSH....having to work the mat a little bit prior to laying down or make sure you work it in a bit more with the bristles of the brush or roller...my gosh,..such an effort
Now you being such a seasoned fiberglass laminator ( as you proclaim to be)...you honestly feel you could not laminate up a test panel using what you feel is the WRONG mat and get a part made that is solid??? If you feel you cannot do that...then you are not as good as you think you are...don't you think.
DUB
Does that make me better than you....it all depends on how a person wants to look at it. Obviously you would feel that I am doing it wrong...but I do not care what you think. And funny as it may be.. I could laminate up two parts...one with the binder coating on it and one without and I BET you could not tell which one was done with which one....even if you put them through a stress test. So do not think that you are all that....because you are clearly not all that. Keep in mind I know the difference in the mat and I KNOW how to use it. THAT is what you seem to be forgetting.
Like I wrote....the binder coating on the mat I use is so thin....I can distress it with ease an get it to be JUST LIKE the mat I have that is not coated in the binder. AND THAT is what this is all about... making sure the resin can get into the fibers.
So giving you a manufacturer and part number is POINTLESS...thus....dodging the issue once again.
You are so hung up on this when this has been well played out. Like it has been written...you use what you want....you have expressed WHAT YOU THINK and then other people have also expressed what THEY THINK.. No one is telling you to do it their way...but for some odd reason. You just can not accept that other people have found a way to do it differently than what YOU do and you just can not grasp that. OH MY GOSH....having to work the mat a little bit prior to laying down or make sure you work it in a bit more with the bristles of the brush or roller...my gosh,..such an effort
Now you being such a seasoned fiberglass laminator ( as you proclaim to be)...you honestly feel you could not laminate up a test panel using what you feel is the WRONG mat and get a part made that is solid??? If you feel you cannot do that...then you are not as good as you think you are...don't you think.
DUB
09-13-2018, 10:58 AM
#52
This is something you wrong as “corvettegrandmaster”, so would you say when you using mat that clear states not for epoxy resin that you are using as the manufacturer intended? It’s pure ignorance to use a mat that says NOT for epoxy resin, when there are so many that say compatible with epoxy. What mat might be great for a polyester laminate because the binder dissolved might not be as good for an epoxy laminate, and is why you going through many extra steps that would not be necessary with the correct material.
What separates fiberglass chop strains from mat? BINDER that’s it.
Maybe it’s just me but I would not want ANY binder left over in my laminate.
What separates fiberglass chop strains from mat? BINDER that’s it.
Maybe it’s just me but I would not want ANY binder left over in my laminate.
09-13-2018, 10:59 AM
#53
Well hell, let me jump in here and really muck things up.
The original OP question was which resin to use.
Yes, he "can" use the West epoxy, but I think that some confusion arises about SMC use in Corvettes.
SMC is basically a term used to describe HOW the panels were made, and yes, pressed/molded panels were used in the 70's.
However, the most significant chemical formulation change came about for the 1984 model year. It is that year going forward that regular polyester resin cannot be used for repair.
Up to 1982, polyester resin is a right and proper material for use in repair of body panels.
I surmise but never really looked into it, that the retooling done during the 1983 "missing year" for Corvettes (production Vettes, anyway), was when the chemical formulation was changed over to the new chemical composition that didn't take well to polyester resins.
The original OP question was which resin to use.
Yes, he "can" use the West epoxy, but I think that some confusion arises about SMC use in Corvettes.
SMC is basically a term used to describe HOW the panels were made, and yes, pressed/molded panels were used in the 70's.
However, the most significant chemical formulation change came about for the 1984 model year. It is that year going forward that regular polyester resin cannot be used for repair.
Up to 1982, polyester resin is a right and proper material for use in repair of body panels.
I surmise but never really looked into it, that the retooling done during the 1983 "missing year" for Corvettes (production Vettes, anyway), was when the chemical formulation was changed over to the new chemical composition that didn't take well to polyester resins.
09-13-2018, 01:01 PM
#54
Race Director
I am aware of all of that and glad that you took l the time to pass it along. One of my good friends/customers actually made the top hood surrounds back in the day and I know the process of how it is done. Pretty amazing on how fast they could make a part.
BUT...I can say that the new reproduction panels for a C3 that are SMC...WILL NOT allow polyester resin to be used on them and epoxy resins is required. So...it is safe to say that if a person uses epoxy resin ..they are covering their bases so they do not have an issue UNLES they can confirm the panels are original.
In this thread....if I jumped in and said to use polyester resin...'some' people would FLIP OUT and ask ..
" Why not use a better resin???" Because as you have read...'some' people cannot grasp that the mat needed is NOT a big issue if a person knows how to use it.
DUB
BUT...I can say that the new reproduction panels for a C3 that are SMC...WILL NOT allow polyester resin to be used on them and epoxy resins is required. So...it is safe to say that if a person uses epoxy resin ..they are covering their bases so they do not have an issue UNLES they can confirm the panels are original.
In this thread....if I jumped in and said to use polyester resin...'some' people would FLIP OUT and ask ..
" Why not use a better resin???" Because as you have read...'some' people cannot grasp that the mat needed is NOT a big issue if a person knows how to use it.
DUB
09-13-2018, 02:15 PM
#55
https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/c...***-mat.12765/
Same question asked here as far as mat comparable with epoxy....like it’s the dub way or the highway on here, where the only supporting evidence is “I’ve done it for decades”.
Same question asked here as far as mat comparable with epoxy....like it’s the dub way or the highway on here, where the only supporting evidence is “I’ve done it for decades”.
Last edited by derekd8915; 09-13-2018 at 02:40 PM.
09-13-2018, 04:00 PM
#57
Race Director
Still can not answer the question and diverting the issue.
And OBVIOUSLY I must have gotten under your skin and in your every thought due to you are really grabbing for straw's and going WAY BACK to when I was 'grandmastercorvette' and a supporting vendor to TRY to find ANYTHING I wrote to support your thoughts and discredit me.
What it is... is you can not comprehend what I wrote.. What part of this do you not understand.
that I WROTE and YOU quoted::
"When those people...who have not tested products that they are using....and choose to alter the procedures...without these tests......usually end up with a repair that is sub-standard...and fails".
WELL ...I HAVE tested changes in procedures and WITOUT failure on this subject.
IGNORANCE is when a person does not know the difference... and how to counter act that difference to make it a usable product. So WHO is the IGNORANT one here. I know the difference and HOW to make it work.
You wrote:
What mat might be great for a polyester laminate because the binder dissolved might not be as good for an epoxy laminate, and is why you going through many extra steps that would not be necessary with the correct material.
KET WORD: "MIGHT NOT BE" Once again...no testing on your part...so just being IGNORANT in your replies.
No....it is not MY WAY. It is just that a person like you THINKING that people HAVE to do it YOUR way is what is eating you alive on this....because....there are people WHO HAVE done it and were successful in a manner that you CLEARLY disagree with....and that also eats at you.. I already wrote...do it how you want to....and if it upsets you that in have over three times the experience in doing this. than you do.....get over it.
YEAH...Like I need to worship those on that forum who do it just like it is supposed to be...BUT NEVER even tried to do it another way and find out it DOES NOT MATTER (depending on what the repair actually is and IF they have a CLUE on what they are doing) Most of those people asking do not know what they are doing and are asking for help...so YEAH...you boat guys are going to tell them what needs to be said due to that person would more than likely do a lamination. without testing it out first.
. I can link this same exact thread back onto this thread and you can read that OTHER people have used it and not only me. So I guess you are one of those who takes everything they read on the internet that applies to their beliefs and uses that as ammunition when their OWN ignorance is getting in the way of possibly learning something..
And as for addition time...get real. I can work the piece of fiberglass mat to soften in a few seconds...or even leave it as it is and take care of it when I laminate.. Like I wrote.....I can have two test panels here and you could not tell which one is which one.
DUB
And OBVIOUSLY I must have gotten under your skin and in your every thought due to you are really grabbing for straw's and going WAY BACK to when I was 'grandmastercorvette' and a supporting vendor to TRY to find ANYTHING I wrote to support your thoughts and discredit me.
This is something you wrong as “corvettegrandmaster”, so would you say when you using mat that clear states not for epoxy resin that you are using as the manufacturer intended? It’s pure ignorance to use a mat that says NOT for epoxy resin, when there are so many that say compatible with epoxy. What mat might be great for a polyester laminate because the binder dissolved might not be as good for an epoxy laminate, and is why you going through many extra steps that would not be necessary with the correct material.
What separates fiberglass chop strains from mat? BINDER that’s it.
Maybe it’s just me but I would not want ANY binder left over in my laminate.
What separates fiberglass chop strains from mat? BINDER that’s it.
Maybe it’s just me but I would not want ANY binder left over in my laminate.
that I WROTE and YOU quoted::
"When those people...who have not tested products that they are using....and choose to alter the procedures...without these tests......usually end up with a repair that is sub-standard...and fails".
WELL ...I HAVE tested changes in procedures and WITOUT failure on this subject.
IGNORANCE is when a person does not know the difference... and how to counter act that difference to make it a usable product. So WHO is the IGNORANT one here. I know the difference and HOW to make it work.
You wrote:
What mat might be great for a polyester laminate because the binder dissolved might not be as good for an epoxy laminate, and is why you going through many extra steps that would not be necessary with the correct material.
KET WORD: "MIGHT NOT BE" Once again...no testing on your part...so just being IGNORANT in your replies.
No....it is not MY WAY. It is just that a person like you THINKING that people HAVE to do it YOUR way is what is eating you alive on this....because....there are people WHO HAVE done it and were successful in a manner that you CLEARLY disagree with....and that also eats at you.. I already wrote...do it how you want to....and if it upsets you that in have over three times the experience in doing this. than you do.....get over it.
YEAH...Like I need to worship those on that forum who do it just like it is supposed to be...BUT NEVER even tried to do it another way and find out it DOES NOT MATTER (depending on what the repair actually is and IF they have a CLUE on what they are doing) Most of those people asking do not know what they are doing and are asking for help...so YEAH...you boat guys are going to tell them what needs to be said due to that person would more than likely do a lamination. without testing it out first.
. I can link this same exact thread back onto this thread and you can read that OTHER people have used it and not only me. So I guess you are one of those who takes everything they read on the internet that applies to their beliefs and uses that as ammunition when their OWN ignorance is getting in the way of possibly learning something..
And as for addition time...get real. I can work the piece of fiberglass mat to soften in a few seconds...or even leave it as it is and take care of it when I laminate.. Like I wrote.....I can have two test panels here and you could not tell which one is which one.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 09-13-2018 at 04:07 PM.
09-13-2018, 04:14 PM
#58
Race Director
Gee I don't know maybe just maybe decades of experience?
I'm positive he's had incompatibility issues with certain products and wouldn't recommend anything he hadn't had personal positive experiences with.
I've been around body work since the late 70s both doing myself and having family in the business and I can spot a good paint and body guy pretty quickly.
I'm positive he's had incompatibility issues with certain products and wouldn't recommend anything he hadn't had personal positive experiences with.
I've been around body work since the late 70s both doing myself and having family in the business and I can spot a good paint and body guy pretty quickly.
DUB
09-13-2018, 04:23 PM
#59
Race Director
And like I wrote several times and it seems to not sink in......DO it as YOU see fit. Like On your Mustang project. I do not care what you do due to I do not have to warranty it. And if you are calling yourself a 'bodyman'; and doing bodywork and you do not know how to weld in steel panels...then I guess you are what you are.
DUB
09-13-2018, 04:26 PM
#60
You are right about some people on here having limited knowledge on fiberglass, that is why I wanted to bring up the binder used in it and if they didn’t know about the binders before, they definitely know after this thread....the choice is now theirs, and might want to go with a mat that is acceptable by the manufacturer, they might not, but if that has helped someone know what to look for when purchasing their mat then great if not oh well....
Regardless of laminate I do, if it’s an epoxy laminate I like to use a layer of peel ply to cover it and is removed when laminate cures. This soaks up any blush that rises to the surface and it leaves a very smooth keyed surface. Yes you can scrub the blush off of the epoxy with soap, water, and a scotch bright. Some people just grind it off but raises the risk of contamination. There are epoxys out there that claim to be “blush free”. But I personally do not trust them.
Regardless of laminate I do, if it’s an epoxy laminate I like to use a layer of peel ply to cover it and is removed when laminate cures. This soaks up any blush that rises to the surface and it leaves a very smooth keyed surface. Yes you can scrub the blush off of the epoxy with soap, water, and a scotch bright. Some people just grind it off but raises the risk of contamination. There are epoxys out there that claim to be “blush free”. But I personally do not trust them.