When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/w9HrtFFsfJKYyo157Hi
first of all im just learning,i recently painted mt 84 vette,i ended up with what im told is Solvent Pop.
im wondering how is the best way to cure it?
I used all Tamco products,prime,base,and
clear.ive resanded 800,1000,1500,2000.
Your photo did very little to no good on seeing the surface adn the solvent pops. I know it is hard to get these to show up in a photo due to the lighting and angle of the photo is critical for them to bee seen.
I assume that you had raised bubbles all on the top surface???
When you wet out the surface with water...can you see these small bubbles deep in the clear???
I know this only way to repair this is to apply more clear BUT that is not so easy due to the small air bubbles that are now open and you have millions of small open cups. Trying top get the clear into them is hard to do and it will require the clear to be thinned drastically so it can flow into these small craters.
IF the air bubbles from the solvent pops are down in the clear...then you either have to live with it....or repaint that area to cover them and then re-clear. Obviously you should not apply clear on a sanded surface that as been sanded to 2000 grit.
It will need to be sanded with something like 500 grit wet.
How did the base coat look, if it is just the clear that is a problem you can use “scuff stuff” it remove just the clear coat. It is a gel with a little grit in it and can be applied with a scotch bright pad. Let the product do the work and do not press too firm.
Solvent pop occurred when the clear was being applied and the 'window' of time was lost. NOTHING will take them out due to the air bubbles are In the clear. IF these are actually solvent pops.
IF you sand them out.....and buff it...you have lost the mil thickness of the clear and it will need to be re-applied.so it can provides the needed UV protection for the basecoat.
It has nothing to down with the basecoat IF it was allowed to flash off correctly.
Generally painters will not wipe the freshly applied basecoat with anything other than running a tack rag over it. There is NO NEED to apply a wax and grease remover to freshly applied basecoat or anything else for that matter.
IF the area is sanded down and buffed and you have thousands of small specks that are holding the compound and polish. THOSE are the craters I was referring to in my last reply.
With information given I assumed he sanded base with 2000 before applying clear. I would avoid sanding on base at all costs. But working with what he has now I don’t think there’s any way out of removing the clear. It is always nice to know what the cause of the problem was so future mistakes can be avoided.
With information given I assumed he sanded base with 2000 before applying clear. I would avoid sanding on base at all costs. But working with what he has now I don’t think there’s any way out of removing the clear. It is always nice to know what the cause of the problem was so future mistakes can be avoided.
Don't assume.... READ. The person wrote that they applied CLEAR on it.
And as for what I know ...this can be saved and the clear DOES NOT need to be removed. Only because I have had to deal with solvent pops a long time ago and I got it repaired to perfection without having to remove clear..
Don't assume.... READ. The person wrote that they applied CLEAR on it.
And as for what I know ...this can be saved and the clear DOES NOT need to be removed. Only because I have had to deal with solvent pops a long time ago and I got it repaired to perfection without having to remove clear..
DUB
you realize you just contradicted yourself in the same thread right?
Your photo did very little to no good on seeing the surface adn the solvent pops. I know it is hard to get these to show up in a photo due to the lighting and angle of the photo is critical for them to bee seen.
I assume that you had raised bubbles all on the top surface???
When you wet out the surface with water...can you see these small bubbles deep in the clear???
I know this only way to repair this is to apply more clear BUT that is not so easy due to the small air bubbles that are now open and you have millions of small open cups. Trying top get the clear into them is hard to do and it will require the clear to be thinned drastically so it can flow into these small craters.
IF the air bubbles from the solvent pops are down in the clear...then you either have to live with it....or repaint that area to cover them and then re-clear. Obviously you should not apply clear on a sanded surface that as been sanded to 2000 grit.
It will need to be sanded with something like 500 grit wet.
DUB
either live with it, or repaint that area to cover them and then reclear coat them?
OBVIOUSLY you cannot comprehend what was written and there is NO contradiction in what I wrote. A professional painter understands what was written and makes sense to them. And I write it so EVERYONE can understand....obviously some people just do not get it.
KNOWING that you do not know about paint and solvent pops because you simply can not buff them out. So the post about compound is pointless.. Solvent pops can be on the surface of the clear...where there is a good thickness of clear under them that was not effected.....WHILE solvents pops and actually be suspended in the layers of the clear. It all depends on when the window of time for the clear being applied was compromised.
SO...when wetting out the surface they can STILL be seen due to not being on the top surface where they have been sanded on and the air bubbles opened up....and thus...the water fills them in and makes them where you can not see them any longer.
Obviously you are posting stuff just to get your post count up...because these last two posts did not ADD any useful information like you commented to another member from doing on a another thread. dealing with the correct fiberglass mat. PRACTICE what you PREACH.
Read and try comprehend what is written because this is getting ridiculous...or take some paint classes.
So any body shop guys here use this product to prep to just reclear a part(not messing with the base coat. I worked for a body shop that would use this all the time, and it works.
clearly you are speaking on a product you just have never used before.
oh , now i understand. your on the wrong site. this is the corvette forum where we discuss and help folks restore their corvettes . your looking for autobody101.com .
How did the base coat look, if it is just the clear that is a problem you can use “scuff stuff” it remove just the clear coat. It is a gel with a little grit in it and can be applied with a scotch bright pad. Let the product do the work and do not press too firm.
CHECK and read what you write.... due to this stuff will NOT remove the clear coat. Obviously you were not paying attention when you worked at that body shop. Because this stuff can not take the clear coat off. Well..maybe it can if you wanted to prove your point but I would get it done a lot faster if I sanded the clear off instead of scrubbing it off with this stuff.
SERIOUSOLY...GET REAL....I have used this stuff or a product that does the same thing.....and Comet cleanser can do the same thing also. YES...this stuff can be used to prep clear.and paint in many circumstances.
IF you are going to prove that you know something...make sure that you at least get the important information about it and its capabilities correct. and not write something that is totally misleading and incorrect.
Sorry, scuff stuff is not going to remove solvent pops. The only way that I have any luck removing them is to sand and re-clear. Several years ago I had a guy working for me that wanted to use PPG 2021 clear on a car we were painting. I told him I had had solvent pop problems with it in my booth and he said you probably spray it wrong. Well he painted a 66 Nova and it looked great ,and about three hours later all the flat surfaces were covered with pops. We repainted with the clear I had been using and had no problem. Solvent pops can be a tuff problem because you need to figure out what caused them in the first place. I think my booth moved so much air that the clear skinned over too fast and trapped the solvent causing the pops.
oh , now i understand. your on the wrong site. this is the corvette forum where we discuss and help folks restore their corvettes . your looking for autobody101.com .
BOY ain't that the truth!
Trying to discuss something with someone who feels that they already have all the answers...is pointless. Knows just enough to be dangerous...but yet proclaims to do everything the best way possible....but seems to not be able to communicate that or understand what is written that he reads.
Originally Posted by derekd8915
Have you tried using skuff stuff or equivalent on it? It has always worked for me to prep a car that needed To Be reclear coated.
YES...like I wrote..I HAVE USED this type of stuff to prep a surface. BUT...I prefer to SAND it because this stuff will only scuff a panel WHILE sanding a panel removes the texture in the clear and flattens it out.
So...using this stuff ALL DEPENDS on what is being done and it is not the product to ALWAYS use.
BUT once again you are switching the topic to suit your purpose and what this thread is about is solvent pops. And this 'scuff' product will DO NOTHING for fixing solvent pops. And as for prepping the surface...it will not work either due to a panel with solvent pops needs to be sanded. If you do not understand WHY...take a paint class and ask the instructor WHY is does need to be sanded. Common sense will tell you why it does,
Monte
Let me take a stab at answering your question
Solvent pop is caused by the clear "skinning" over or curing on the top level BUT the underneath has not cured
The underneath has no were to breath - so as it is curing - a pop occurs in the surface
It is normally caused by a couple things - one using the wrong reducer or piling on coats and not letting the surface flash off.
Now - the cure - the ENTIRE surface will need to be sanded smooth - down to where the surface is 100% smooth - rid of the orange pee and the pop
Then the entire surface need re cleared
IF the clear is broken thru - then the base coat will prob need to be re-coated
Hopefully this helps
Just for my own curiosity, didn’t,t see it mentioned, was a sealer used under the base coat? How much base coat was applied?
Sealer is normally used under the base coat - the base coat - number of coats depends on the hiding ability of the basecoat - the more transparent the more coats
the average is three
09-12-2018, 05:28 AM
Solvent pop
