Polishing clear with a Dremel?
#1
Safety Car
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Member Since: May 2004
Location: los altos hills california
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Polishing clear with a Dremel?
I have about a quarter sized blem on my door that I've filled and finished with PPG base and DCU clear . I am wondering how to go about blending the sheen of the new clear in with the rest of the door. I am guessing the final blend step should be done with the larger element pads and ultrafine compound that I used on the rest of the car. But what should I do to get there?
There's plenty of clear originally so I am not too worried about that, but just the same I would like to minimize the chance of overreaching. Seems to me the Dremel might be the answer.
Anybody done this or can offer their alternative?
There's plenty of clear originally so I am not too worried about that, but just the same I would like to minimize the chance of overreaching. Seems to me the Dremel might be the answer.
Anybody done this or can offer their alternative?
#2
Race Director
As long as the clear is dry enough and you keep the Dremel tool buffing pad moving using light pressure you should be fine IF you choose to not use a conventional buffer. DO NOT run the buffing pad dry!!!!!!!!!!
I have used mine from time to time on small spots and I run it at the slowest speed due to mine is variable speed...so I am not heating up the clear too much due to such a small contact patch surface area when buffing it.
DUB
I have used mine from time to time on small spots and I run it at the slowest speed due to mine is variable speed...so I am not heating up the clear too much due to such a small contact patch surface area when buffing it.
DUB
#3
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Thanks DUB. Will give the clear a good week to harden, although directions say 16 hours is good enough.
I have a battery powered Dremel and the white felt buffing pads. I've used the 3M process and know to keep the pads seperate. Hadn't thought about heat, so that is a very good point.
I have a battery powered Dremel and the white felt buffing pads. I've used the 3M process and know to keep the pads seperate. Hadn't thought about heat, so that is a very good point.
#4
Race Director
YES...with that buffing pad being so dense on the edge...and if your pressure is on the clear in one spot long enough it can make it like a grinder and divot the clear, Regardless if your even let the clear dry a month or 6 months.
Obviously do not do it if the clear has ben out in the sun and is hot.
I take the pad and try to compress it to soften the outer edge so it is more like poofey and ruffled...so to speak. Depending on if your design of buffing pad is a dense velvet type fabric or not.
DUB
Obviously do not do it if the clear has ben out in the sun and is hot.
I take the pad and try to compress it to soften the outer edge so it is more like poofey and ruffled...so to speak. Depending on if your design of buffing pad is a dense velvet type fabric or not.
DUB
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DUB (02-01-2019)
#6
Race Director
Thanks.
But even though your repair is small ...it can turn into a BIG problem if you heated up the clear and ruined it. So...something that may seem small and trivial..can turn quickly into a major cluster....do not ask me how I know this.
DUB
But even though your repair is small ...it can turn into a BIG problem if you heated up the clear and ruined it. So...something that may seem small and trivial..can turn quickly into a major cluster....do not ask me how I know this.
DUB