When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone tried this clutch for draag racing ? Centerforce DFX Clutches
Took the clutch out today..seems it was shimmed at twice the required spacing. I got a total of Ten runs and maybe 1000 street miles from the McLeod Twin. Wore slap out with portions of the flywheel, floater plate and pressure plate having hot spots all over it. I don't have time to send it back for a re-build.
My friend has a couple hundred runs and thousands of miles on his McLeod Twin...running mid tens and pulling the front wheels off the ground.
Come on....once again, let me hear from the drag racing guys with a sh*t load of track runs on a particular clutch, to tell me about what clutch to run.
Anyone tried this clutch for draag racing ? Centerforce DFX Clutches
Took the clutch out today..seems it was shimmed at twice the required spacing. I got a total of Ten runs and maybe 1000 street miles from the McLeod Twin. Wore slap out with portions of the flywheel, floater plate and pressure plate having hot spots all over it. I don't have time to send it back for a re-build.
My friend has a couple hundred runs and thousands of miles on his McLeod Twin...running mid tens and pulling the front wheels off the ground.
Come on....once again, let me hear from the drag racing guys with a sh*t load of track runs on a particular clutch, to tell me about what clutch to run.
Pitt
You know that I'm with your friend. McLeod Twin shes always a been good to me. Oh,that was a baseball quote now wasn't it.
Just buy a clutch and get that vette back on the road. From what I was told you can destroy any clutch made. Just pulling your leg Pitt.
[QUOTE=98vettedave;1571001196]You know that I'm with your friend. McLeod Twin shes always a been good to me. Oh,that was a baseball quote now wasn't it.
Just buy a clutch and get that vette back on the road. From what I was told you can destroy any clutch made. Just pulling your leg Pitt.[/QUOTE
That made me laugh Dave !! I just don't get it ??? Not like I side step the clutch at 6500 rpm. Those were all soft launches below 4500 and slipping the clutch. WTF ??
send the clutch to me...i'll pay the 400 for the rebuild and use it as my spare...Fart, Blue, Simpleman, and I are all running spec twins...
I would give the centerforce a try...you dont see many complain about centerforce...not sure why more dont use them
Stay away from TEX garbage
Monster seems to be doing ok....they chatter like any other aggressive single...some require the tick for shifting...
I'd do a LS7 PP, Good disk, and Aluminum Flywheel
Im fairly certain most of the PP's are all made by LUK
SPEC is their own billet construction...lots having good luck with the spec 3+ as well
As with most any aftermarket clutch will require a aftermarket Master like the Tick unit, and proper install/throwout bearing to clutch finger spacing for them to run as designed
I ve got a question about a slipping clutch i took out of my car. The PP had "hot spots" on it, i noticed. Clutch disc hasn t lost any(hardly) material. I only put a few hundred miles on this clutch(I didn t break in this clutch and dynoed my car within 60 miles of installation- Can u say slipping clutch?) Lol Its a Spec 3+. QUESTION- Should i send it back to Spec for "freshening" or?? This would be a "spare" because i already have another clutch in the car thats working fine now(i broke it in correctly). Thanks!
Pittman i'm sorry to hear about the woes. This clutch thing is getting rediculous for us guys IMO. I'm not going to recommend the Spec twin disc to you. I'm not recommending any twin for you.
Personally I would try the Monster stage 5 for my application and maybe a stage 4 for yours. They recommended the stage 3 to Nickolbag though so i can be wrong.
I think Kurtomac has his head up his you know what about pieceing one together. IMO you will need to have any pieced together clutch balanced. I dont recommend this due to different clutch discs go to different flywheels and pressure plates and I'd rather put that in the hands that know better then Kurt which is almost everyone! He talked me into this damn thing I have and $1400 later i'm not the most happy we'll say. I'd recommend a single disc agressive. I have 90+track passes and 7k miles on my textrailia approx. I did the Tick towards the end and the thing was still kicking strong and will be in another car soon I think.
Send the Mcleod out for the rebuild and sell it.
Personally I would try the Monster stage 5 for my application and maybe a stage 4 for yours. They recommended the stage 3 to Nickolbag though so i can be wrong.
Here is what they told me regarding the 3 and 4. They both have the same pressure plates. The difference between the two is in the friction plate. The 4 is supposed to have a softer material that will grab harder. It also won't last as long as the stage 3 friction plate. At my power levels they said I would not need the additional gripping force of the stage 4 so the 3 would be better for me, since it will still hold and will last longer.
From what I got out of them the stage 3-4 are good for anything under 600rwhp. I'd assume the closer you got to 600 the more you would want the 4 over the 3.
I'll let you know how I like it. I just bled the clutch last night before I dropped the car off and that clutch with the TICK is pretty stiff. I like it! Seems like it will work well at the track. Assuming this one disengages for me.
Quick qs. Can you use any flywheel with the McLeod twin or does it need to be balanced?
The clutch\flywheel should be balanced. I guess you could get lucky..but that's not my middle name.
Originally Posted by intoc6s
I ve got a question about a slipping clutch i took out of my car. The PP had "hot spots" on it, i noticed. Clutch disc hasn t lost any(hardly) material. I only put a few hundred miles on this clutch(I didn t break in this clutch and dynoed my car within 60 miles of installation- Can u say slipping clutch?) Lol Its a Spec 3+. QUESTION- Should i send it back to Spec for "freshening" or?? This would be a "spare" because i already have another clutch in the car thats working fine now(i broke it in correctly). Thanks!
If you have bad hot spots, you need to have it re-surfaced and probably re-balanced.
Originally Posted by Fartpipe
Pittman i'm sorry to hear about the woes. This clutch thing is getting rediculous for us guys IMO. I'm not going to recommend the Spec twin disc to you. I'm not recommending any twin for you.
Personally I would try the Monster stage 5 for my application and maybe a stage 4 for yours. They recommended the stage 3 to Nickolbag though so i can be wrong.
I think Kurtomac has his head up his you know what about pieceing one together. IMO you will need to have any pieced together clutch balanced. I dont recommend this due to different clutch discs go to different flywheels and pressure plates and I'd rather put that in the hands that know better then Kurt which is almost everyone! He talked me into this damn thing I have and $1400 later i'm not the most happy we'll say. I'd recommend a single disc agressive. I have 90+track passes and 7k miles on my textrailia approx. I did the Tick towards the end and the thing was still kicking strong and will be in another car soon I think.
Send the Mcleod out for the rebuild and sell it.
I was leaning towards Monster but decided to go another round with the McLeod. My buddy had a couple hundred runs on his twin (the last 25 yanking the front wheels off the ground) and thousands of street miles (his daily driver). He looked at the clutch and said it was set up wrong, too much clearance. He sent his in for a rebuild. So... I called McLeod this morning and they said the same thing.
I will have 2 clutch set-ups this way, and can just rotate them after every ten runs...lol. That wasn't funny at all
At least I won't have to learn to launch again with another type clutch.
Here is what they told me regarding the 3 and 4. They both have the same pressure plates. The difference between the two is in the friction plate. The 4 is supposed to have a softer material that will grab harder. It also won't last as long as the stage 3 friction plate. At my power levels they said I would not need the additional gripping force of the stage 4 so the 3 would be better for me, since it will still hold and will last longer.
From what I got out of them the stage 3-4 are good for anything under 600rwhp. I'd assume the closer you got to 600 the more you would want the 4 over the 3.
I'll let you know how I like it. I just bled the clutch last night before I dropped the car off and that clutch with the TICK is pretty stiff. I like it! Seems like it will work well at the track. Assuming this one disengages for me.
when are you going to have it running and a track date report for us Pitt?
I don't really want to run in this heat !! Not gonna break any records. I do have to test those new Goodyears in the next few weeks anyway...heat or not !!
I've been running the Tex-Exoskel now almost 2 seasons have about 50 passes on it and some street driving. I've been pretty happy with it although now I'm having some problems shifting the car. It could be the clutch sticking, or the trans. I'll be pulling out the drive train pretty soon to see which item is the root cause. Would I buy another Exoskel??? Possibly , however I like that new clutch from Fidanza. It looks like a quality piece and comes in 2 versions. Anyway, if you are making a lot of HP a dual disk clutch is really the only way you can go. I had a single in my car for a season and it just didn't hold up at my power level, I kept driving through it.
I've been running the Tex-Exoskel now almost 2 seasons have about 50 passes on it and some street driving. I've been pretty happy with it although now I'm having some problems shifting the car. It could be the clutch sticking, or the trans. I'll be pulling out the drive train pretty soon to see which item is the root cause. Would I buy another Exoskel??? Possibly , however I like that new clutch from Fidanza. It looks like a quality piece and comes in 2 versions. Anyway, if you are making a lot of HP a dual disk clutch is really the only way you can go. I had a single in my car for a season and it just didn't hold up at my power level, I kept drving through it.
I know Corvette guys dont like to hear this but my Spec III and III+ NEVER once slipped, broke apart, scored the flywheel beyond perfect use or caused me any problems that made me have to prematurly remove it.
I have used a Spec III in my 650 rwhp KB Cobra and NEVER had a problem and no im carrying one in my 460-400 (motor) 570-570 (spray) and its holding strong along with the Tick MC!
You should definetly give Spec a try! Just break it in correctly and it will not do you wrong!
I know Corvette guys dont like to hear this but my Spec III and III+ NEVER once slipped, broke apart, scored the flywheel beyond perfect use or caused me any problems that made me have to prematurly remove it.
I have used a Spec III in my 650 rwhp KB Cobra and NEVER had a problem and no im carrying one in my 460-400 (motor) 570-570 (spray) and its holding strong along with the Tick MC!
You should definetly give Spec a try! Just break it in correctly and it will not do you wrong!
The ONLY problem i ve had is when i didn t give it a proper break-in. Something i regret!!