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I am still able to cut mid-low 1.6s on average and have cut a 1.59 60' on the stock clutch. I look at the faster bolt on cars with clutches and it seems there is a tenth or 2 left on the table.
I will be shooting for 11.2x keeping the same mods as last season but about 30lbs lighter. I'd like to see a 10.9x but i do not think a clutch alone will see that. Not sure if gear only would see that either...so that's my predicament.
Clutch and gear is out of the question this year it will be one or the other. Which do you think i will benefit the most from? It would be 4.10s or a Twin Disk Mcleod.
I'd just like to say I hate you guys for thinking about bolt on 10s...was hard enough for my no driving *** to get 10s with heads, cam, and intake...WITH GEARS...and....WITH CLUTCH...I applaud you guys for maximizing with less hp...better to get the driver mod/technique down rather than add hp and run slower for longer...next car..differnet approach...although I think my ride has quite a lot left in it...running 10.90s shifting easy and luanching easy (1.63 60ft)...more mph left in her too.
to your question...if I were steve...i would do gear and clutch at the same time...as while you have the drivetrain down...its a while youre in there mod!...gonna do the RST or RXT mcleod twin?
I'd just like to say I hate you guys for thinking about bolt on 10s...was hard enough for my no driving *** to get 10s with heads, cam, and intake...WITH GEARS...and....WITH CLUTCH...I applaud you guys for maximizing with less hp...better to get the driver mod/technique down rather than add hp and run slower for longer...next car..differnet approach...although I think my ride has quite a lot left in it...running 10.90s shifting easy and luanching easy (1.63 60ft)...more mph left in her too.
to your question...if I were steve...i would do gear and clutch at the same time...as while you have the drivetrain down...its a while youre in there mod!...gonna do the RST or RXT mcleod twin?
Ya i know, i really don't see many people breaking stuff with the stock clutch and it just doesn't feel violent with it. If it ain't broke don't fix it, i have been trying to go with that mentality with this car. I would go with the RST, both clutch/gear would run me around the same in cost. 4.10s effect some driveability, but i don't think they will cause as much wear and tear as a grippy clutch.
I really just want to maximize the absolute most with my current combo. Ranger has tought me well. Other then an insane DA day, i feel i have reached my limit to where i am able to go with my current mods. I think it has 11.2xs in it. I figure with the clutch i should be able to go 11.1x maybe a 11.0x. 10s would be tuff, but i just couldn't tell you without having one. It seems i should be able to 60' better with gears as well. A low 1.5x would be nice, i may go to a slick depending how many runs i do this season i may be do for a new set of tires towards the mid way point.
I don't know i'm just not sure. I may do both but i don't really see it happening for awhile. Tax return didn't do me well this year
an aluminum flywheel will reduce rotating mass and maybe pick up a tenth (I'll have results in about 2 weeks) but the gears will pick up atleast .3 with mn6 and take some of the strain of the clutch if it's still holding up, if both are out of the question
I switched from ET Streets to Hoosier DR's (first time was at the Smackdown). The ETS were very good, but I like the Hoosier's better.
Hard to say which will pick up more. If you clutch is not slipping much, then gears will definitely help a ton. Where are you crossing the stripe? 5600 or so? I know I'm leaving a ton on the table crossing at 6100. Not only do you gain in 4th gear, you pick up RPMs in every gear.
The risky move would be gears first. Of course, if the clutch starts to go, you will not have a choice except to replace it. The safer(and probably smarter) move would be the clutch first. However, it's one of those painful mods that will not be a lot of ET for the buck. IMHO, clutch first.
Steve when I did gears it may have cost me a few hp but I did a MPH overlay...look at how much hp i am up through the MPH range...at 128 mph at the strip i was only going through the traps at 6300(my log only said 121mph at 6300 at the strip so this shows tire diameter difference/growing et streets vs stock 295s on the dyno) thats with Z06 MN12/390s ....go with 390s and hoosiers for a little room to grow or 410s if you dont plan on doing 130 some day with your car....I think if I had hoosiers I would have been closer to 6500...which would be even more ideal...oh well...next car I'll try more stuff
oh and FWIW i hit 4th at about 90-95mph so for reference it looks like im up around 60hp and carry the increased hp all the way until i cross the 1/4 mile line
I was thinking hoosier for my next set. Is huff running radial or slick? Where do you even order hoosiers?
Pete's running Hoosier radials now, and so is Andrew (they both just bought new sets). Pete was previously running BFGs and Andrew and I were on M/Ts and we all got our PBs and best 60s from the Hoosiers. We all order from the same guy...pm me if you want the info.
I switched from ET Streets to Hoosier DR's (first time was at the Smackdown). The ETS were very good, but I like the Hoosier's better.
Hard to say which will pick up more. If you clutch is not slipping much, then gears will definitely help a ton. Where are you crossing the stripe? 5600 or so? I know I'm leaving a ton on the table crossing at 6100. Not only do you gain in 4th gear, you pick up RPMs in every gear.
The risky move would be gears first. Of course, if the clutch starts to go, you will not have a choice except to replace it. The safer(and probably smarter) move would be the clutch first. However, it's one of those painful mods that will not be a lot of ET for the buck. IMHO, clutch first.
What size hoosiers are you running? The 255 50 16?
From a gain stand point the gears are a no brainer. In all likelihood when you start racing the car really hard again that clutch just isn't going to hold over time. So either take the better short term gain and chance the stock clutch or do the clutch now and not worry and wait for the gears when you can afford them. The gain will be minimal by replacing the clutch, but the worry factor with that part failing will be gone for a while.
I am still able to cut mid-low 1.6s on average and have cut a 1.59 60' on the stock clutch. I look at the faster bolt on cars with clutches and it seems there is a tenth or 2 left on the table.
I will be shooting for 11.2x keeping the same mods as last season but about 30lbs lighter. I'd like to see a 10.9x but i do not think a clutch alone will see that. Not sure if gear only would see that either...so that's my predicament.
Clutch and gear is out of the question this year it will be one or the other. Which do you think i will benefit the most from? It would be 4.10s or a Twin Disk Mcleod.
By watching you drive and launch I would go with gears. It will take a little less strain off the clutch on the launch. You won't likely break.