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Been thinking about doing a aluminum flywheel in my FRC. The setup last year was h/c/I 346
Monster stg3 with there lightweight flywheel which was heavier than my stocker. Tick master cyl,Stock m6 speed and stock 1 rib 342 on 315/35/17 Hoosiers. Went a 1.55 60' .
This year will be the same clutch,built 3 rib 410 diff and trans with better parts in it. Also switching to 15" wheels and probably a 26x10 slick or similar. Would a aluminum flywheel be a good idea while its all apart?
Last edited by JIMS SVT; Feb 18, 2016 at 04:02 AM.
The lightweight flywheel should make total weight around 47lbs and stock clutch should be around 52lbs iirc. A fidanza would save you another 5 lbs, though my experience with aluminum flywheels have left the steel insert warped when heat is introduced from high rpm launching/slipping. Plus an aggressive friction material combined with a lightweight clutch makes it more difficult to find the fine line between bogging and spinning IMO. Some will argue it doesn't hit the tires as hard and revs faster, so it's better.
That's a good 60' with stock gears in trans and diff, 4.10s should be ~.3 improvement from my experience in the 1/4. Curious what your et/mph was on the 1.55? Hope that helps and look forward to you going faster!
The lightweight flywheel should make total weight around 47lbs and stock clutch should be around 52lbs iirc. A fidanza would save you another 5 lbs, though my experience with aluminum flywheels have left the steel insert warped when heat is introduced from high rpm launching/slipping. Plus an aggressive friction material combined with a lightweight clutch makes it more difficult to find the fine line between bogging and spinning IMO. Some will argue it doesn't hit the tires as hard and revs faster, so it's better.
That's a good 60' with stock gears in trans and diff, 4.10s should be ~.3 improvement from my experience in the 1/4. Curious what your et/mph was on the 1.55? Hope that helps and look forward to you going faster!
Chris
They was brand new tires and went 1.55 6.99 @ 103-104 and 10.82 @ 129.8. The. The next day I went to a different track with the surface and prep not good at all but a lkttle better weather.Went 1.66 6.95 10.78 and 10.79 @ 132.2
They was brand new tires and went 1.55 6.99 @ 103-104 and 10.82 @ 129.8. The. The next day I went to a different track with the surface and prep not good at all but a lkttle better weather.Went 1.66 6.95 10.78 and 10.79 @ 132.2
Been thinking about doing a aluminum flywheel in my FRC. The setup last year was h/c/I 346
Monster stg3 with there lightweight flywheel which was heavier than my stocker. Tick master cyl,Stock m6 speed and stock 1 rib 342 on 315/35/17 Hoosiers. Went a 1.55 60' .
This year will be the same clutch,built 3 rib 410 diff and trans with better parts in it. Also switching to 15" wheels and probably a 26x10 slick or similar. Would a aluminum flywheel be a good idea while its all apart?
To go fast as possible. Figured since the trans and diff is out and all fresh then if a aluminum fw will help then do it too while its apart.
Be more specific, that will help you achieve your goals faster!!
It's all in the details.
I'm assuming you mean best et on the drag strip?
I'd take opinions from several people you trust and come up with a decision based on all the input. You already have Chris' opinion, now ask him to get you the name of someone from monster clutches and tell them what you are trying to do and what would be the best part that will work flawlessly with your existing clutch.
I feel the Al flywheel is a benefit. You need to take advantage of it by launching higher and revving high and shifting fast. As long as Monster says the flywheel you choose will work perfectly with their clutch or have a part they can say they haven't had any trouble with. I haven't had any of my clutches with Al flywheels need early maintenance because of the flywheel material but you can bet I researched the crap out of it before making my decision.
The addition of 4.10 gears will compliment an Al flywheel nicely as well.
I switched to an aluminum flywheel when I first switched the rear gears to 4.10s. In my experience the gears are worth a tenth in the 60' alone, but as Rob stated the aluminum flywheel with it's lower MOI will need to be launched higher to cut the same 60' all else being equal. I agree it can ultimately be the fastest down the track as it has the less parasitic loss and Lsoholic will agree with Robz it's the fastest(both of those guys I admire for their skills) though I tried organic, ceramic and Kevlar friction materials with the aluminum flywheel prior to working for Monster clutches and all three resulted in the steel insert being warped. That is the reason Monster only offers a billet flywheel with their clutches, for a street/strip car that has longevity somewhat in mind I wouldn't go with the lightest flywheel as it will cause increased wear relatively speaking since it will take more rpms to take off whether on or off the track. It's a decision only you can make as it's subjective like a camshaft there's always a compromise. I like to run a lighter flywheel for easier rev matching when road racing and prefer a light disc (ie no dampening springs) since I don't run an agressive friction as it allows for quicker shifts and less wear on synchros. When I tried a prototype super light clutch assembly (ie 22lbs total) it gained ~20rwhp on the dyno, but didn't notice a mph gain like I was expecting to correspond.
I will say I have no experience of running 15" or even 16" wheels on the vette and imagine that will help along with the gears, do you have any videos of your car launching by chance?
I dont really have any I can post on here. My phone is dumb lol. I imagin that Id be able to let out on the clutch alot faster with the gears and being on a 15 with a taller sidewall.