Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
The splice packs used on C5s are not sealed at all, which makes them subject to corrosion. The exposed grounds are not covered or sealed either. It's a poor design, but it is what it is.
And how is that? Do you have an injection mold in your garage? 
I don't. What do you propose, just using a big glob of RTV on the area you cut off with the dremel? Yeah, that would look the same 
I don't. What do you propose, just using a big glob of RTV on the area you cut off with the dremel? Yeah, that would look the same
http://www.rockauto.com and look at part S619
I have a fair degree of confidence that I could fabricate something of comparable quality. No, it would not look perfect, but neither does that thing. It would last just as well though, and it's not in a place where it can be seen anyway.
Just being specific here. People use these threads as guides for maintence, and someone will put sealant over sealant, not knowing better. I have not seen a factory replacement that did not have sealant on the threads yet.
Last edited by wcsinx; Feb 18, 2009 at 12:43 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,344
Likes: 1,123
From: Dyer, IN
Sure they can be, but you said it yourself.
All those harnesses, splice packs, pig tails, etc. are unsealed, unhardened, and not protected from corrosion in anyway. So if I see an opportunity to eliminate/minimize their use, then I will take it. I can make a clean solder joint, paint it with liquid tape, and never worry about it again.
I would propose cutting the female connector out of the original sender, finding the interior terminals, soldering new leads to them, then covering the solder joints with liquid tape. If you go to ...
http://www.rockauto.com and look at part S619
I have a fair degree of confidence that I could fabricate something of comparable quality. No, it would not look perfect, but neither does that thing. It would last just as well though, and it's not in a place where it can be seen anyway.
No problem, I saw some pictures of replacements that had clean threads.
All those harnesses, splice packs, pig tails, etc. are unsealed, unhardened, and not protected from corrosion in anyway. So if I see an opportunity to eliminate/minimize their use, then I will take it. I can make a clean solder joint, paint it with liquid tape, and never worry about it again.
I would propose cutting the female connector out of the original sender, finding the interior terminals, soldering new leads to them, then covering the solder joints with liquid tape. If you go to ...
http://www.rockauto.com and look at part S619
I have a fair degree of confidence that I could fabricate something of comparable quality. No, it would not look perfect, but neither does that thing. It would last just as well though, and it's not in a place where it can be seen anyway.
No problem, I saw some pictures of replacements that had clean threads.
Rock on brother......
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Mine bit it at 71k. From what I've heard that's about par for the course. I don't think there's anything wrong the GM piece other than its placement. A Chebby dealer might bend you over on the price though.
Last edited by wcsinx; Feb 18, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 643
Likes: 2
From: Alexandria Northern Virginia
Here's the template I promised some folks, maybe others can use it too.
To use this: Cut along the line that says "align with weatherstrip edge" all the way left to right. Then sort of massage the paper in around the wiper trough, lining the small hole up with the center clip hole on the firewall (where you took the plastic pop rivet out).
I used a thin wall Sears deep 6 point 1/2 inch drive socket 1 1/16" (part number 50756) and it dropped right down in the hole I cut (used a hole saw from a door lock set I had lying around).
Hope that helps. I used a 45 degree bent long nose pliers to pop the electrical clip off. No problems of yet, replaced it in Dec. 08.
Cassidy
To use this: Cut along the line that says "align with weatherstrip edge" all the way left to right. Then sort of massage the paper in around the wiper trough, lining the small hole up with the center clip hole on the firewall (where you took the plastic pop rivet out).
I used a thin wall Sears deep 6 point 1/2 inch drive socket 1 1/16" (part number 50756) and it dropped right down in the hole I cut (used a hole saw from a door lock set I had lying around).
Hope that helps. I used a 45 degree bent long nose pliers to pop the electrical clip off. No problems of yet, replaced it in Dec. 08.
Cassidy
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
thread sealant
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3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
thread sealant
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 340
Likes: 19
From: Royal Oak Michigan
My 2-cents worth:
My Factory GM sensor died at 69K miles. I am currently debating if a buy the relocation kit or just cut the hole and figure out a way to seal it once it has been cut. I need to pull the cowl cover and really look at it.
I agree that I would prefer to have a pigtail with Delphi Weatherpak connectors on each end. Terminal Supply (www.terminalsupply.com) is my local store that sells all the Delphi connectors. If I go this route, I'll post what their part number and price is for these connectors.
Cheers!
My Factory GM sensor died at 69K miles. I am currently debating if a buy the relocation kit or just cut the hole and figure out a way to seal it once it has been cut. I need to pull the cowl cover and really look at it.
I agree that I would prefer to have a pigtail with Delphi Weatherpak connectors on each end. Terminal Supply (www.terminalsupply.com) is my local store that sells all the Delphi connectors. If I go this route, I'll post what their part number and price is for these connectors.
Cheers!
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Lake Placid Florida
My .02
Hey all, my last OPS lasted almost 5 months, it was the aluminum piece. Rather than go through the remove the manifold bit I opted to relocate using the DPE kit. I also cut the hole in the plastic undertray to get at the offending unit. It was a bit of work seeing as how it's so far away for my short little legs to reach over and see what I was doing but, was well worth it IMO. Somehow I lost the fitting that went into the block and couldn't find it anywhere, it's somewhere in my garage and I will find it I'm certain, but, called Perry at DPE and he zipped a new fitting to me quickly, also very nice guy. Now, I've got a relocated OPS to a place I can get to in 5 minutes or less, and vast knowledge of how to use tools from my Dad dating back some 75 years. I don't know what the name of the tool I used to reach down into that dark place to connect the stainless line with the AN fitting to the brass unit in the block, but, without it I would have had to remove the manifold. I'm pleased and thanks to this Forum have saved much money and learned so much about my toy. Thanks again all !
