Worn cam lobe... what would you do?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
I assume you know about using Zinc in the oil from now on?
Also, before placing your Summit order it wouldn't hurt to purchase a cam bolt locking plate ($5). It mounts under the camshaft bolts, has tabs that bend down and lock the bolts from ever coming loose, cheap insurance.
Your new camshaft will come with a break-in lube packet. For a couple bucks you can buy a second packet and really grease the snot out of the new lifters / lobes. (critical)
Also, before placing your Summit order it wouldn't hurt to purchase a cam bolt locking plate ($5). It mounts under the camshaft bolts, has tabs that bend down and lock the bolts from ever coming loose, cheap insurance.
Your new camshaft will come with a break-in lube packet. For a couple bucks you can buy a second packet and really grease the snot out of the new lifters / lobes. (critical)
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 23, 2018 at 07:00 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,366
Likes: 1,589
From: los altos hills california
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,366
Likes: 1,589
From: los altos hills california
Your sentence was so well written I quoted it while retaining proper attribution to you. Anyway I put one on my small block and turned out fine when my own cam sent south. I'm not aware of the particulars with regard to water pumps, so possibly you can improve my recommendation with your own experience? I'll have to take a look at what's on my motor.
Last edited by ignatz; Jan 23, 2018 at 07:37 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
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From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
Your sentence was so well written I quoted it while retaining proper attribution to you. Anyway I put one on my small block and turned out fine when my own cam sent south. I'm not aware of the particulars with regard to water pumps, so possibly you can improve my recommendation with your own experience? I'll have to take a look at what's on my motor.
not having to deal with the oil pan sealing would be great.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Two piece timing covers are the greatest invention since aluminum heads. But, on C3s you can hardly get a piece of paper between the pump and timing cover. Most of the 2 pc covers I have checked on, state: will not fit short W.P. ( too thick) Some have put spacers on the W.P. ports. Then your pulleys are off.
Unless you plan on changing the cam timing for different track conditions every weekend, a 2 pc cover would not be money well spent. You still have to pull the clutch-fan and W.P. anyway.
Unless you plan on changing the cam timing for different track conditions every weekend, a 2 pc cover would not be money well spent. You still have to pull the clutch-fan and W.P. anyway.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 12, 2018 at 10:34 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
Likes: 878
From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
Two piece timing covers are the greatest invention since aluminum heads. But, on C3s you can hardly get a piece of paper between the pump and cover. Most of the 2 pc covers I have checked on state: will not fit short W.P. ( too thick) Some have put spacers on the W.P. ports. Then your pulleys are off.
Unless you plan on changing the cam timing for different track conditions every weekend, a 2 pc cover would not be money well spent. You still have to pull the clutch-fan and W.P. anyway.
Unless you plan on changing the cam timing for different track conditions every weekend, a 2 pc cover would not be money well spent. You still have to pull the clutch-fan and W.P. anyway.
I have a plan for a new motor.
going to be tricky satisfying cali smog tests.
so any easier method to change out cams
would be most welcome.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,369
Likes: 520
25 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm. It's scary... I found myself stalling, checking and rechecking everything: fire extinguisher, carb primed, power to ignition, fluid levels...
It fired right up...
It fired right up...
Last edited by DorianC3; Feb 12, 2018 at 03:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,369
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I forgot to tighten the clamp on the smaller hose going to the intake manifold and had to briefly shutdown.
It was a cold-ish day. The temp stayed rock-steady at 180; the electric fan never needed to kick in. I had drilled some 1/8 holes in the thermostat flange. That seems to have improve the thermostat response.
To avoid dipping below 2000, I gave the idle speed screw a full turn in.
I added a bottle of zinc additive just for good measure and may add another once I change the oil and the filter.
I saw some puffs of smoke developing, but it seemed to come from under the exhaust header. It turns out there is an oil leak at the fuel pump - I have NO idea how I managed that.
Other than that it was uneventful. Oil pressure stayed at 35 psi.
The first minute or two sounded slightly cringe-worthy, but soon it settled down.
An automotive stethoscope and everything seemed to have that nice whirring sound. I could hear a small, rhythmic metallic tink. It didn't sound like a lifter but shared the same frequency. I am guessing that it is the ever so slightly bent pushrod that maybe brushing against the cylinder head's guide slot.
It was a cold-ish day. The temp stayed rock-steady at 180; the electric fan never needed to kick in. I had drilled some 1/8 holes in the thermostat flange. That seems to have improve the thermostat response.
To avoid dipping below 2000, I gave the idle speed screw a full turn in.
I added a bottle of zinc additive just for good measure and may add another once I change the oil and the filter.
I saw some puffs of smoke developing, but it seemed to come from under the exhaust header. It turns out there is an oil leak at the fuel pump - I have NO idea how I managed that.
Other than that it was uneventful. Oil pressure stayed at 35 psi.
The first minute or two sounded slightly cringe-worthy, but soon it settled down.
An automotive stethoscope and everything seemed to have that nice whirring sound. I could hear a small, rhythmic metallic tink. It didn't sound like a lifter but shared the same frequency. I am guessing that it is the ever so slightly bent pushrod that maybe brushing against the cylinder head's guide slot.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Very clever using a magnet instead of a longer bolt on the pump pushrod. Yes, those fuel pump mount gaskets like to show who's boss. Two gaskets=four surfaces to smear the Permatex. One out of four usually drip. But oil is a good driveway weed killer.
Absolutely add Zinc after the oil change. You are running flat tappets. You can pick a oil that has at least 800 ppm Zinc.
Everything looks good. You may be disappointed in a single plane on the street, but time will tell.
Absolutely add Zinc after the oil change. You are running flat tappets. You can pick a oil that has at least 800 ppm Zinc.
Everything looks good. You may be disappointed in a single plane on the street, but time will tell.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
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TRW TM274 for $60
Mmm I am increasingly leaning toward a GM crate engine. I just need something reasonably comfortable
to drive. I’d rather not invest too much in this fellow. If it is really unbearable I’ll toss it out.
Mmm I am increasingly leaning toward a GM crate engine. I just need something reasonably comfortable
to drive. I’d rather not invest too much in this fellow. If it is really unbearable I’ll toss it out.
Last edited by DorianC3; Feb 12, 2018 at 03:22 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
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From: Cool Northern Michigan
Thats true. But they are designed for screamin' RPMs. Where as the dual plane is low end grunt, off idle. Which scenerio is daily occurance?
