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The components you listed are fine but use a 5746 Mahle head gasket (.028 crush) and you have to measure for pushrods....you can't and shouldn't just buy a set....you have to mock it up and check it....this cannot be skipped....wrong pushrod length is the #1 killer of valve guides....and is important for long valve tip life....
If this were my car....it would get a Trick Flow DH175 head....bare....or set up with a PAC 1.250 spring....but I would buy them bare and setup with a "Z/28" Elgin or Isky spring.....good valve control and not too much seat pressure for that old L-82 camshaft.
For rockers I use the Comp Magnum roller tip on something like this as it clears everything and is all you need....1.6 ratio.
Oh trust me, I am. I was going to leave it original because it IS a low mile L82 4spd but 225 HP just aint gonna cut it. Plus its way too quiet! I'm just a traditionalist with the old school small block...400hp will be plenty for me. I AM gonna put a different cam in it because the flat tappet cam will wear down with my AFR 195s springs. Good excuse to get a bigger cam right? lol
Once you've settled on a Specific Cam + a Specific Head; let us know ?
Also, if ya Want more cam or valve lift, then Buy more cam. The higher the RAR becomes, the more unnecessary stress is placed on valvetrain from increased rate of acceleration of valve open-close. Yes that's different than how a proper lobe ramp design works. Want a BETTER cam ? ... settle on a head FIRST and THEN bring YOUR requirements to :
Mike Jones (call em)
Jones Cam Designs
Denver NC USA http://jonescams.com/
The other big benefit that I always forget to mention as well as others....is to advance the L-82 cam 4 degrees.....it will pickup well from bottom to midrange and flatten the torque curve....the cam has a wide LSA and advancing it puts it closer to a sweet zone....
1.6 ratio at this lift and ramp speed (L-82 cam is pretty lazy) is a non-issue.....
Advancing the stock cam is something we did to these cars when they were new along with 1.6 to kers along with an over the counter set of angle plug heads the L-82 always ran well. But here's a question, how do you guys think that double snorkel air cleaners with the corrugated tiny ducts can flow as much air as a good open element air cleaner?
Advancing the stock cam is something we did to these cars when they were new along with 1.6 to kers along with an over the counter set of angle plug heads the L-82 always ran well. But here's a question, how do you guys think that double snorkel air cleaners with the corrugated tiny ducts can flow as much air as a good open element air cleaner?
Under 400 HP it’s definitely not a restriction, and better at getting cool air to the carb. The open element does look cooler though, so that alone is worth an extra 20.
Hello all! Thank all of you for all your input! This community is awesome and damn you guys know your ****! I'm just a rank amateur!
So here's what I've gone with
AFR 195/64 heads
Performer intake because RPM is too tall
1.6 PRW Billet aluminum rockers
Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
Howards roller 225/231 dur, 0.5/.51 lift (w 1.5) 112 lsa (stiff head springs would wear out the stock flat tappet L82 cam so... Upgrade!)
Double roller chain
Doug's 1 3/4 headers
Pypes Race Pro 2.5" exhaust.
Should get me over 400hp and 430 to 440 ftlbs
What do you all think about that set up? Any other good tips or tricks?
was planning on a rebuild of course. Any suggestions?
Send it to @lars , tell him exactly what you are doing, and he'll return a rebuilt Q-Jet that is jetted and adjusted for your target engine's performance. Do you have to convert to an electric choke with that intake?
I would skip the Pertronix, it does nothing that the stock HEI doesn't do (though email @lars for his timing and HEI papers, too, and make sure it is set up correctly, or buy a new Delco distributor and start there).
The carb # for your 1979 L82 should be 17059211. Here is a thread by Lars working on that very same one. It’s an example of a pristine, untouched carb that’s going on a car with only a different than stock exhaust.
If your carb has been worked on or altered previously it will require a trained eye to know what is correct or if anything needs to be fixed. Also, since this carb already has 77 primary jets, the largest ever put in a factory carb, it will probably need altered air bleeds to accommodate making nearly double the horsepower the car came with from the factory. That’s a bit more involved than a simple rebuild or rejetting.
If it’s your first time working on a Quadrajet, or a carb in general, I would leave this part to the professionals. Lars has very fair prices, and the last thing you want to do to a new expensive top end is burn a valve because your carb is set up too lean.
Last edited by Piersonpie; Dec 10, 2025 at 01:25 PM.
Yes a bigger cam, with more duration, and more overlap, makes less idle vacuum, and makes the carb go lean. At idle and cruise. Cruise is the challenging one to fix in any carb.
Found a very nice speed shop nearby that turns out some amazing vehicles and it turns out they have a 'Lars' there. Been doing them for 50 years. Told him what I got and he started rattling off the same stuff.
Thanks for validating and great advice. I'll def ask about this stuff