Squid,

Nice job and you get it, yo uare way ahead of most people at this point. There is no problem with running at 2 ohms as long as the amp is suited for it which that amp is. Better amp choice and pretty close to the cost of the punch you were looking at, about $30 more.

Good luck,

Darion

 

you got it right! good choice. there is a down side to running a speaker at 2 ohms but you wont notice it with a sub.

just an fyi:
The downsides are that the amp is stressed a little more and that the sq is effected too. but you probably wont notice it with the sub.

 

The Plot Thickens:

I decided to go ahead and go with the Rockford Fosgate P3001 which is also a 2 ohm Mono Sub Amp rated at 300W.

I am doing this simply because of the Remote Bass **** that comes with it which I think would be very handy considering that I am blending it into the factory set up.

The AMP is costing me $60 more (the cost is the same for the Alpine).

Now I am open for argument so if you can see why the 50W more I would get with the Alpine is worth more than having the Remote **** then lay it on me.

But I think I am close to beating this horse down.

Charles

 

unless you think you'll adjust that a lot I would probably go with the additional 50 watts. you can dial in your system a bit by adjusting the gain on the amp. But if you think you'd like to tinker with the bass a lot then go with the fosgate.

 

hmmmm, dunno. If ya like the idea of having the remote bass control for blending purposes you should go that direction. With where your goals started out I'm not so sure the extra 50 watts will be that big a deal for ya. Thats a tight choice between the two, .

Darion

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the 50 watt difference in power ratings. Both Alpine and Rockford seriously under rate the power on their amps. Both should come with a factory test sheets where they state the really power output messured at the factory for that amp before it shipped. I bet either on will actually put out over 400 watts which will be quite a lot of bass for a small car like the vette.

I've have a Alpine MRV-F250 which was rated at 4x25 but according to the test sheet put out 4x35. I Just got a RF Power T8004 which is rate at 4x50 but the test sheet shows 4x125

 

Go with which ever you prefer if you want the bass **** get bass **** lol eitherway you will have a nice little setup. Makesure to get us pictures when its all done and let us know the total cost and stuff as a reference for other members. I'm glad you figured out the whole amp issue

 

Remote bass is a killer feature. I'd never get an amp without it. (unless your headunit can do a comparable thing)

I think you'll find you use it often depending on what you're listening to or who's in the car. (my wife doesn't appreciate clean, loud bass like I do )

However, several brands offer remote controls now. For example, you can get a Sony XM-SD61X which will give a CEA-2006 certified 600 watts at 2 ohms for around $175.

 

What happens if you try to run 4 speakers off of a 2-channel amp?

I was considering ordering the 3.5" Alpines for the Doors and the 6.5" Alpines for the rear and instead of using the head unit amp -- getting a small separate amp to match my Bass Mono amp.

Or do I have to get a 4-channel amp for the 4 new speakers?

Charles

 

You can run 4 speakers from a 2 channel amp if you wire them correctly (IE 2 ohm load to each channel vs an 8 ohm load) provided the amp can handle the 2 ohm load. As a previous poster stated you do lose some sound quality and if you are running a mid quality ($200-$350) 4 channel amp and sending it 2 2 ohm loads across the 4 channels it WILL put out some heat and will need to be mounted somewhere to get some cooling to it (IE not under a seat) By 2 2ohm loads I mean a bridged rear two channels to a sub and the front two sent a 2 ohm load from your other 4 speakers.

The other thing that may not be a good thing is you lose a lot of adjustability in terms of gain control when you run a front and rear speaker off of just the front channels. Most of the time these speakers are different sizes, need different crossover points and are of a different efficiency (IE 92db rear vs 89db front). This will mean that the more efficient speakers will ALWAYS be louder than your other set.

If it were me, I would recommend getting yourself a nice mid and tweet component set for the front, eliminate the rear channels all together, pick up your 4 channel amp and sub and you are gtg.

Ask yourself this .. how often have you turned your head away from the front stage at a concert to listen to that "rear fill"? And it is not like the rear passengers in the vette need music

G'luck
Fej

 

go with a Jl Audio 12W6 Sub and Jl Audio 500/1 amp I can tell you first hand I love mine and it sounds AWESOME!!!!!

 

Hey, I recognize that sub set up, and I love the SubThump box.

 

It looks cleaner now. I put the storage cover back on and added a 15" high clearance grill. Also hid the wiring. Now I need to build a cover for the amps.

 

Pryo -- nice set up.

As I write this my car is at the shop getting her mods.

Can't wait ...

Charles

 

 

IMO if you can afford it JL AUDIO is the WAY!!!!!!!!!
rated #1 for a few years running in quality.

i will only use JL subs EVER

you said you wanted something to compliment and ADD but not overpower your bose
your best sub/box system is the ONE that JL Custom built through research. its a stealth box for 97-04.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?fit_id=1522

i had a stealthbox in my 01 Firebird same sub-10w3v2 powered by a JL 250/1 with a 1/2 farad cap and 4 ga wiring.
AMAZED,
the 10w3v2 on only 250 TRUE RMS watts it pushed out 137db

the thing is JL put time designing a box just for the c5.
JL amps put out the RMS watts they say they do! meaning you get the same output from the amp ALL the time b/c it doesnt fluctuate with the voltage your car puts out

It isnt cheap but you get what you pay for... QUALITY OF SOUND

the box & sub combo is like 550, amp 350, cap 90, wiring 60, RCA 20-40, plus install-

 

last year i decided i wanted to go deaf quicker and put in a 10w6 with a 500/1 in it and LOVE it. - ill let you know what happens with my vette when i strip the bird and transfer

 

Thanks! You are gonna love the Thump!

 

Ok -- here are my impressions so far.

The way the PAC was installed my FADE know now controls the BASS amp. The Bass **** also has input on the Bass levels and my REMOTE **** affects the Bass.

I have never been so in control of my bass

I now have real seat throbbing body shaking bass in the car.

Here is the positive aspect of the set up using the fader know and it being on the back speaker's side -- every song seems to have a different level of bass and some need more so this allows me to leave the BASS **** for the front Bose speakers and use FADE to raise and lower overall real bass.

In other words ... I find the sweet spot for the front part of the car (maximum treble - about half way on BASS) and then some where on the FADE **** I seem to between 1 and 3 o'clock.

I seem to be at half way on the PUNCH AMP REMOTE and just leave it alone. I had this mounted (velcro) in the center console. He just drilled a hole next to the cigarette lighter hidden in the hump. It uses a phone cord style wire.

I will get pictures soon.

Overall, I am unhappy with the mids and highs so I ordered the Alpine 3.5 SPS-080A for the fronts door and some thin mount Infinities for the back 6.5" ... I just wants some tweets and mids that would be adequate using the headunit power.

More to follow ...

Charles

 

Pics -- the guy put a wood plank under the carpet up near the rear of the seats. That way he had a real base to anchor the amp. Plus, knowing me this will be a two amp job before all is done.

Plus, He did a great job of hiding the wires. The down side is the carpet is a tiny bit loose up near the amp as you look towards the passenger seat. I think he was waiting to see if I add an amp.