2000 C5 -- Adding Subwoofer - Amp
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Houston TX
2000 C5 -- Adding Subwoofer - Amp
Ok -- as with my pipes you guys helped me narrow it down on how to add a subwoofer to a "sub-par" Bose System.
Like many others I read on here I wanted to try and keep the Bose system in there and try to "shore" it up with some bass.
I intend to replace the 3.5" speakers later.
Here is what I have come up with based on my research in this forum.
I need a:
1) Interface - PAC AOEM-VET1
2) SubThump 10 Stealth Box
3) Alpine SWR-1042D (Sub)
4) Rockford Fosgate Punch P2002 (Amp)
5) Good Wiring for Power, RCA Leads, Speaker Wire
It is not what I call a super powerful bass, but I think this set up should fill in the gaps.
Please feel free to kick me in the cajones and set me right if some of you think I am headed down a bad path.
Below I will includes and pics of what I am doing.
Interface - PAC AOEM-VET1
SubThump 10 Stealth Box
Alpine SWR-1042D Speaker - 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
Rockford Fosgate Punch P2002
200 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
Like many others I read on here I wanted to try and keep the Bose system in there and try to "shore" it up with some bass.
I intend to replace the 3.5" speakers later.
Here is what I have come up with based on my research in this forum.
I need a:
1) Interface - PAC AOEM-VET1
2) SubThump 10 Stealth Box
3) Alpine SWR-1042D (Sub)
4) Rockford Fosgate Punch P2002 (Amp)
5) Good Wiring for Power, RCA Leads, Speaker Wire
It is not what I call a super powerful bass, but I think this set up should fill in the gaps.
Please feel free to kick me in the cajones and set me right if some of you think I am headed down a bad path.
Below I will includes and pics of what I am doing.
Interface - PAC AOEM-VET1
SubThump 10 Stealth Box
Alpine SWR-1042D Speaker - 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
Rockford Fosgate Punch P2002
200 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 232
From: Youngstown Ohio
Squid,
For what it seems you are trying to do, stay mostly stock, looks like you are off to a good start. I looked at doing the same thing but in the end decided to replace everything. It seemed to me that the money I was spending was only a short term fix and that I would be replacing everything anyway. What I would do before you start spending money is figure out what it would cost to replace it all compared to your plan. Then decide if the difference is more than you want to spend. JMHO but something to consider.
Darion
For what it seems you are trying to do, stay mostly stock, looks like you are off to a good start. I looked at doing the same thing but in the end decided to replace everything. It seemed to me that the money I was spending was only a short term fix and that I would be replacing everything anyway. What I would do before you start spending money is figure out what it would cost to replace it all compared to your plan. Then decide if the difference is more than you want to spend. JMHO but something to consider.
Darion
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
From: Hobbs NM
St. Jude Donor '06
I did the same thing you are going to do and used the exact same components except I used a JL250/1 Amp where you are using the Rockford. It really makes the Blose system sound better. I was getting ready to change the 3.5" in the doors however Santa Claus is bringing me a set of JL 653CS component speakers for the doors so I am changing out the entire system over the Holidays. You will like the added bottom end to the stock system. It makes the system tolerable. Happy Holidays
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 59
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From: Houston TX
Thanks for the input ...
As far as changing out the system ... well the Corsa Indys are eating at the sound buget.
But here was my thinking ... if I do change out later the Bass Amp and Speaker Set up would stay in there anyway.
I would just add around them. In that case I would have only wasted the money on the interface.
At least that's what I think.
Right now I am looking at:
$ 59.00 -- Interface
$150.00 -- SubThump Delivered
$476.00 -- For all the rest installed
-------------------------------------
$685.00 for extra Bass
Now I question my motives
As far as changing out the system ... well the Corsa Indys are eating at the sound buget.
But here was my thinking ... if I do change out later the Bass Amp and Speaker Set up would stay in there anyway.
I would just add around them. In that case I would have only wasted the money on the interface.
At least that's what I think.
Right now I am looking at:
$ 59.00 -- Interface
$150.00 -- SubThump Delivered
$476.00 -- For all the rest installed
-------------------------------------
$685.00 for extra Bass
Now I question my motives
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 232
From: Youngstown Ohio
Squid,
You could save some $ by doing the install yourself. Online prices for what your looking at come to $480 plus wires, say another $40 RCA's included. With the $165 you save you can make a dent in those Corsas or get some 3 1/2's for the doors. The install isn't that hard and with some time and reading on the forum, I'm sure you can get it done.
Good luck,
Darion
You could save some $ by doing the install yourself. Online prices for what your looking at come to $480 plus wires, say another $40 RCA's included. With the $165 you save you can make a dent in those Corsas or get some 3 1/2's for the doors. The install isn't that hard and with some time and reading on the forum, I'm sure you can get it done.
Good luck,
Darion
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
Originally Posted by Darion
Squid,
You could save some $ by doing the install yourself. Online prices for what your looking at come to $480 plus wires, say another $40 RCA's included. With the $165 you save you can make a dent in those Corsas or get some 3 1/2's for the doors. The install isn't that hard and with some time and reading on the forum, I'm sure you can get it done.
Good luck,
Darion
You could save some $ by doing the install yourself. Online prices for what your looking at come to $480 plus wires, say another $40 RCA's included. With the $165 you save you can make a dent in those Corsas or get some 3 1/2's for the doors. The install isn't that hard and with some time and reading on the forum, I'm sure you can get it done.
Good luck,
Darion
the vette is SOO easy to take apart and we are here to help ya if you need it.
here is a good site for inexpensive but good quality wires:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,968
Likes: 0
From: Biloxi MS Theres something happenin' here, What it is ain't exactly clear.....
I just put the Infinity Kappa 10.1, Infinity Reference 610 mono amp and OEM-1 in my C5 this week.
Easy stuff, just read up on it. There are threads on removing the dash console, how to connect the OEM-1, how to get the 4 guage wire thru the firewall, ways to ground the amp, places to mount the amp, sound dampening, and even ways to connect XM or an iPod
Keep us posted
Rain
Easy stuff, just read up on it. There are threads on removing the dash console, how to connect the OEM-1, how to get the 4 guage wire thru the firewall, ways to ground the amp, places to mount the amp, sound dampening, and even ways to connect XM or an iPod
Keep us posted
Rain
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 59
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From: Houston TX
Pent -- I agree about the AMP ... I have an Alpine Mono in my truck running my two 10" -- MTX subs.
I am not all that smart on this stuff and that's why I thought the bridging was making up for the 2-channel. I will seek out another AMP.
What is the reputation of Memphis Subs?
For everyone else who recommends me doing it my self on the install -- not gonna happen. I just don't enjoy it. The $165 is well spent. And installers kids need new shoes too -
But I will, take pics of the install.
My contributions to this forum are more likely to be on fit and finish, costs references, merchant reviews and things like that. But I have just learned over the years that I am not a do-it-your-selfer.
Thanks - Squid
I am not all that smart on this stuff and that's why I thought the bridging was making up for the 2-channel. I will seek out another AMP.
What is the reputation of Memphis Subs?
For everyone else who recommends me doing it my self on the install -- not gonna happen. I just don't enjoy it. The $165 is well spent. And installers kids need new shoes too -
But I will, take pics of the install.
My contributions to this forum are more likely to be on fit and finish, costs references, merchant reviews and things like that. But I have just learned over the years that I am not a do-it-your-selfer.
Thanks - Squid
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 59
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From: Houston TX
Slight Change of Topic
Ok ... I need you audiophiles to vote on something.
I like the SUBTHUMP idea with their box so I am staying that route, but with all power and amp consideration appropriately applied (wattage matched amp to sub at rated levels) -- I have this question.
Would you go One 10" or One 12"???
10" Box - Below
12" Box - Below
I see the trade off is space in the box - the 12" has less cubic empty space so I am wonder if the 2" difference will out run the 10" ?
Does the lack of space in this configuration matter?
Or would just a single 10" do the job as well or better because of the space in the box?
Squidly
I like the SUBTHUMP idea with their box so I am staying that route, but with all power and amp consideration appropriately applied (wattage matched amp to sub at rated levels) -- I have this question.
Would you go One 10" or One 12"???
10" Box - Below
12" Box - Below
I see the trade off is space in the box - the 12" has less cubic empty space so I am wonder if the 2" difference will out run the 10" ?
Does the lack of space in this configuration matter?
Or would just a single 10" do the job as well or better because of the space in the box?
Squidly
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Middlesex NJ
10" will be tighter bass. the 12" will hit lower and give that nice thump. Assuming the cost differential is minimal, I'd go with the 12', JL Audio also, you just cant beat them, a JL 12 will sound like anybody elses 15" easy.
With regard to the space in the box, its always been my understanding that too much free air is just as bad as too little. More is sometimes less kinda thing.
With regard to the space in the box, its always been my understanding that too much free air is just as bad as too little. More is sometimes less kinda thing.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 232
From: Youngstown Ohio
Squid,
I like 10's a bit more than 12's, but that is my taste. I like 10's for the tight, quick response and they go low enough for me. In fact the setup I am currently installing will be two 8's. Done properly 12's can sound very tight they just haven't worked out for me in the past.
As far as box volume, when you are looking at subs of any size find out what the recommended space is from the manufacturer. Since you know what space you will have look for something that is a close match to that size. You will find that some brands require less space than other brands because of the design of the sub, also some may need more. Look up woofers ect. online and check out the subs, they pretty good info on them without having to go to the manufacturer.
Good luck,
Darion
I like 10's a bit more than 12's, but that is my taste. I like 10's for the tight, quick response and they go low enough for me. In fact the setup I am currently installing will be two 8's. Done properly 12's can sound very tight they just haven't worked out for me in the past.
As far as box volume, when you are looking at subs of any size find out what the recommended space is from the manufacturer. Since you know what space you will have look for something that is a close match to that size. You will find that some brands require less space than other brands because of the design of the sub, also some may need more. Look up woofers ect. online and check out the subs, they pretty good info on them without having to go to the manufacturer.
Good luck,
Darion
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Houston TX
It's never easy is it?
Well here is some good news. I went back today and talked to the kid helping me and he came down on some pricing.
I got him down to $125 on the Apine R Series 10"
and he came down on the Punch 2002 to $139.
Now the "all the rest" part is $364 + Box + Interface
He swears that AMP will do more than enough driving for what I am doing with it.
I have the right to complain afterwards.
Well here is some good news. I went back today and talked to the kid helping me and he came down on some pricing.
I got him down to $125 on the Apine R Series 10"
and he came down on the Punch 2002 to $139.
Now the "all the rest" part is $364 + Box + Interface
He swears that AMP will do more than enough driving for what I am doing with it.
I have the right to complain afterwards.
Last edited by Squid; Dec 9, 2005 at 04:43 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
the 10" sub wont be all that much tighter then a 12" but 12" will give you deeper bass. That rule of thumb doesn't hold as strong as it used to back in the day...sub technology has really come a long way. I say go with the 12" as long as you can find one that will match that box 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 8,718
Likes: 20
From: Dyer IN
Cruise-In IX Veteran
First off that amp will not work properly with the sub unless the sub is DUAL 2 OHM voice coil, and im pretty damn sure its a DUAL 4 which is what most places stock the amp will overheat with the wrong ohm load. As well that amp pushes 200wrms and that sub is designed for 200-500wrms so you would barely be pushing it at all. Honestly I would go down to a lower model Alpine or get a bigger amp, personally go with a bigger amp. If you can fit it go with the 12" you will probally be happier more cone area = more bass. The type R in a vette will pound with good power, but only giving it its minmal power handling isnt prly the smartest thing. What other brands were you looking at for amps or subs I'd be more then happy to make a recommendation. Ive done systems in 2 c5 vetts, multiple f bodys as well as many others
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
go with an amp that is 2 ohm stable. I had a dvc image dynamics sub being pushed by a phoenix gold ti amp. it as bridged and pushing the sub which had a 2 ohm resistance configuration. (the amp is stable to one ohm stereo or 2 ohm bridged) it powerd it nicely.