2006 Z06 Install: Part 1
03-17-2011, 01:18 AM
#62
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok, let’s take a look at the sub enclosure now. I selected a couple of DLS 10 inch reference subs for my install. These are Single Voice Coil 2 ohm impedance subs:
http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_505
They need an 18 liter enclosure, this is the biggest limitation on the size of the sub I can/want to use as I want to build a fiberglass enclosure that will sit in each back corner of the car. Now, I’m a bit concerned if I will have enough volume in that space given it’s shape and clearance issues of the sub, false floor and closure of the hatch. I’ve also got to make the boxes symmetrical in appearance, take into account the height of the driver above the box to make sure not only the hatch closed but does not touch any part of the driver or box so it does not resonate. Big things to accomplish.
So we start off by laying out what needs to go where and limitations of size and shape. We started by cutting out pieces of cardboard and laying them in the corner and cutting to shape. Once we got things cut to shape, we used a hot glue gun to “weld” the pieces together.
So, we have the two sides made. My fiberglass buddy uses these cardboard templates to act as a skeleton to apply the fiberglass. Here he started to apply layers of glass mat and resin:
After several layers we end up with a bottom and sides:
Jay
http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_505
They need an 18 liter enclosure, this is the biggest limitation on the size of the sub I can/want to use as I want to build a fiberglass enclosure that will sit in each back corner of the car. Now, I’m a bit concerned if I will have enough volume in that space given it’s shape and clearance issues of the sub, false floor and closure of the hatch. I’ve also got to make the boxes symmetrical in appearance, take into account the height of the driver above the box to make sure not only the hatch closed but does not touch any part of the driver or box so it does not resonate. Big things to accomplish.
So we start off by laying out what needs to go where and limitations of size and shape. We started by cutting out pieces of cardboard and laying them in the corner and cutting to shape. Once we got things cut to shape, we used a hot glue gun to “weld” the pieces together.
So, we have the two sides made. My fiberglass buddy uses these cardboard templates to act as a skeleton to apply the fiberglass. Here he started to apply layers of glass mat and resin:
After several layers we end up with a bottom and sides:
Jay
03-17-2011, 01:27 AM
#63
Drifting
Thread Starter
Sub Part 2:
Once those basic boxes are done, I make a pair of sub rings for the driver to sit on top of and for attaching. I make these out of MDF and a router with a circle cutter. I screw up the first one but the next two come out just fine.
Next thing we did was to fine fit the sub box we’ve made so far for a better fit in the car. I was originally going to cut out the carpet where the sub was going to sit but later decided that was not a good idea and left the carpet in place and fitted it that way. What we did was cut the sub box fiberglass pieces along the edges and used those pieces for a more precise fit and look of the box. Once in place, we hot glued those pieces together. From here we drilled 4 holes through the rings and used wooden dowel rods to secure the ring to the sub box using hot glue.
We then fit the box and ring assembly back into the car to make sure we had the clearance we needed. Once everything was set, my friend then finished up the fiber glassing job. Sorry, no picture of that. But he spent a boat load of time doing it and the box is very thick and rigid as all getout.
He shaped the box and then gave it a quick covering of a flat satin type finish which was to be temporary but so far I kind of like it. The box was secured to the back of the car using two lag bolts that go through the back tail assembly through a pair of holes that were already there for a pair of plastic cargo hooks used for the cargo net in the back.
Here’ what it looks like:
The amazing thing was we hit the volume of the box right on the nose. We needed 18-20 liters and the box volumed out to 21 liters. This was checked but placing a plastic bag inside the box and then filling it with water 500 mL at a time….42 times. I didn’t think there was any way we would have hit the volume but sometimes it’s good to be lucky.
Jay
Once those basic boxes are done, I make a pair of sub rings for the driver to sit on top of and for attaching. I make these out of MDF and a router with a circle cutter. I screw up the first one but the next two come out just fine.
Next thing we did was to fine fit the sub box we’ve made so far for a better fit in the car. I was originally going to cut out the carpet where the sub was going to sit but later decided that was not a good idea and left the carpet in place and fitted it that way. What we did was cut the sub box fiberglass pieces along the edges and used those pieces for a more precise fit and look of the box. Once in place, we hot glued those pieces together. From here we drilled 4 holes through the rings and used wooden dowel rods to secure the ring to the sub box using hot glue.
We then fit the box and ring assembly back into the car to make sure we had the clearance we needed. Once everything was set, my friend then finished up the fiber glassing job. Sorry, no picture of that. But he spent a boat load of time doing it and the box is very thick and rigid as all getout.
He shaped the box and then gave it a quick covering of a flat satin type finish which was to be temporary but so far I kind of like it. The box was secured to the back of the car using two lag bolts that go through the back tail assembly through a pair of holes that were already there for a pair of plastic cargo hooks used for the cargo net in the back.
Here’ what it looks like:
The amazing thing was we hit the volume of the box right on the nose. We needed 18-20 liters and the box volumed out to 21 liters. This was checked but placing a plastic bag inside the box and then filling it with water 500 mL at a time….42 times. I didn’t think there was any way we would have hit the volume but sometimes it’s good to be lucky.
Jay
04-15-2011, 12:25 AM
#66
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok, for the final part of the install, I wanted to put in steering wheel controls in the car. Now, the 2006 Z06 did not come with steering wheel controls nor did it come with the wire to do it after the fact. However, starting in 2008, IIRC, the Z06 did come with the steering wheel controls for the stereo on the right side spoke. And in 2009 I believe the blue tooth option was added and those controls were on the left side of the spoke, Now, the problem I had to solve was how to make the controls interface with the PC to control volume, answer the phone change the current music track…etc.
First I needed to get a hold of some of these controls and find out how they were designed and how they worked. So I picked some up from the chevy dealer…couple sets actually. I popped one apart and did some analyzing of the circuitry inside and found that there were only 4 damn wires that controlled the 7 buttons and two of those wires did the backlighting on the buttons. So that left a 2 wire control for 7 buttons. At this point I realized that this had to be a voltage ladder type arrangement. That basically you supply a fixed voltage down a series of resistors that ends in a ground. When you press a given button that completes the circuit at a given point in the ladder and returns a voltage. That voltage is essentially a fixed value that can then be read by the return circuit and the button can be identified and the function executed.
Great, now I know how it works, I just need to turn that into an interface with the computer. So I started working and a circuit that compared a known voltage to that of a button press and that, in turn would send signals down stream. Now you might say, why not use a microprocessor like a PIC or Atmel chip? That would be the more elegant way of solving the problem. However, one little obstacle is I don’t know how to write firmware for the micro and I knew it would take more time to learn than it would to do by brute force (at least for me). So I choose the brute force method of using voltage comparators, Hex inverters and AND gates for my project.
So I designed and started to test the circuitry to control the steering wheels. Here are a few shots of the prototype board I made:
Now, I came across another issue and that was I needed…well WANTED…more than just 7 buttons for control. I had ideas to control the radar and laser detectors/jammers as well as the monitor and possibly some other controls for other little devices. I needed a way to alter the function of the buttons. Turns out I found a solution using some data switching chips and a need little signal chip from microchip. This additional circuitry allowed me to have 4 banks of 8 switches. The only issue was I needed to be able to toggle the additional switch banks. The way this works is to turn on and off different signal chips. As you toggle from 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 and then back to bank 1. When you start the car, you are on bank 1 by default. As for the toggle, I choose to use the paddle shifters used in the C6 automatic triptronic type transmission. Turns out they are a 2 switch and 2 wire voltage ladder as well. So these were integrated into the circuit using the finger paddle as the switcher and the thumb as the 8th switch.
From there I needed a way to switch various signals from low voltage low current to higher voltage and up to 1 amp in current. I choose a type of optoisolator for this task.
Here’s a few picture of the final circuit:
In order to make this work, I had to replace the clock spring on the steering column. For those that don’t know what this is, it’s a springy type flat cable inside a plastic housing that allow you to turn the steering wheel without tangling up any wires. There are connections to the wheel and on the column but keep the regular wires from getting tangled. I also need to redo the harness along the column to accommodate the new wires but still allow the horn to be wired in properly. I then have to wire to the computer. I used a little device called UHID to convert the button presses to keyboard strokes that will then control the various function in the front end software. I also wired in the controls for power to the Laser and Radar detectors so I can control them turning on and off. I also wired in the Valentine One mute button.
On a final note for this post, I and another car nut developed a circuit that will show the V1 and Escort 9500ci detectors in the Heads Up Display. So I have this information in my HUD and the V1 blanked.
Jay
First I needed to get a hold of some of these controls and find out how they were designed and how they worked. So I picked some up from the chevy dealer…couple sets actually. I popped one apart and did some analyzing of the circuitry inside and found that there were only 4 damn wires that controlled the 7 buttons and two of those wires did the backlighting on the buttons. So that left a 2 wire control for 7 buttons. At this point I realized that this had to be a voltage ladder type arrangement. That basically you supply a fixed voltage down a series of resistors that ends in a ground. When you press a given button that completes the circuit at a given point in the ladder and returns a voltage. That voltage is essentially a fixed value that can then be read by the return circuit and the button can be identified and the function executed.
Great, now I know how it works, I just need to turn that into an interface with the computer. So I started working and a circuit that compared a known voltage to that of a button press and that, in turn would send signals down stream. Now you might say, why not use a microprocessor like a PIC or Atmel chip? That would be the more elegant way of solving the problem. However, one little obstacle is I don’t know how to write firmware for the micro and I knew it would take more time to learn than it would to do by brute force (at least for me). So I choose the brute force method of using voltage comparators, Hex inverters and AND gates for my project.
So I designed and started to test the circuitry to control the steering wheels. Here are a few shots of the prototype board I made:
Now, I came across another issue and that was I needed…well WANTED…more than just 7 buttons for control. I had ideas to control the radar and laser detectors/jammers as well as the monitor and possibly some other controls for other little devices. I needed a way to alter the function of the buttons. Turns out I found a solution using some data switching chips and a need little signal chip from microchip. This additional circuitry allowed me to have 4 banks of 8 switches. The only issue was I needed to be able to toggle the additional switch banks. The way this works is to turn on and off different signal chips. As you toggle from 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 and then back to bank 1. When you start the car, you are on bank 1 by default. As for the toggle, I choose to use the paddle shifters used in the C6 automatic triptronic type transmission. Turns out they are a 2 switch and 2 wire voltage ladder as well. So these were integrated into the circuit using the finger paddle as the switcher and the thumb as the 8th switch.
From there I needed a way to switch various signals from low voltage low current to higher voltage and up to 1 amp in current. I choose a type of optoisolator for this task.
Here’s a few picture of the final circuit:
In order to make this work, I had to replace the clock spring on the steering column. For those that don’t know what this is, it’s a springy type flat cable inside a plastic housing that allow you to turn the steering wheel without tangling up any wires. There are connections to the wheel and on the column but keep the regular wires from getting tangled. I also need to redo the harness along the column to accommodate the new wires but still allow the horn to be wired in properly. I then have to wire to the computer. I used a little device called UHID to convert the button presses to keyboard strokes that will then control the various function in the front end software. I also wired in the controls for power to the Laser and Radar detectors so I can control them turning on and off. I also wired in the Valentine One mute button.
On a final note for this post, I and another car nut developed a circuit that will show the V1 and Escort 9500ci detectors in the Heads Up Display. So I have this information in my HUD and the V1 blanked.
Jay
04-15-2011, 12:29 AM
#67
Drifting
Thread Starter
A couple pictures of the buttons and paddles in place:
Don’t have any better pictures than that. I’ll have to take some of the entire interior here in the next couple of days.
Also, got the second sub box roughed up and fitted in. However, it’s not going to work as both a sub box and PC cooling fan platform. I’ll go into why in the next post with some pictures of the box.
Jay
Don’t have any better pictures than that. I’ll have to take some of the entire interior here in the next couple of days.
Also, got the second sub box roughed up and fitted in. However, it’s not going to work as both a sub box and PC cooling fan platform. I’ll go into why in the next post with some pictures of the box.
Jay
04-15-2011, 03:46 PM
#68
Melting Slicks
This is the most detailed, awesome stereo thread I've ever seen.
Thank you for posting the whole process like this!
Your thread title says "part 1"...is there going to be a "part 2"?
Thank you for posting the whole process like this!
Your thread title says "part 1"...is there going to be a "part 2"?
04-15-2011, 04:08 PM
#69
Drifting
Thread Starter
I was going to make each post a different part but then thought it would probably be better to keep it all together.
This thread will be analogous to the movie "History of the World: Part 1" Never saw a part two...never will.
Jay
This thread will be analogous to the movie "History of the World: Part 1" Never saw a part two...never will.
Jay
04-20-2011, 12:44 AM
#72
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the compliments to all. This brings us up to date where I am now with the car. Last week I ran a few tests with the other sub box and found that our cooling solution was not adequate at temps in the mid 80's. This led to the conclusion that during the very hot times during July and August, I was going to be having some major cooling issues and possibly some equipment issues with the heat. As such, we decided to forego the second sub and use that box as a conduit for the fan to draw cool cabin air and run it over the pc. What we also hope to gain as a secondary benefit is forcing some air across the amps and out the front edge of the false floor right behind the passenger and driver.
Once I have the second box in, the floor painted and mat made, I will post up some final pics of the install and the interior.
Jay
Once I have the second box in, the floor painted and mat made, I will post up some final pics of the install and the interior.
Jay
04-20-2011, 09:32 AM
#73
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado
Posts: 1,266
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Thanks for the compliments to all. This brings us up to date where I am now with the car. Last week I ran a few tests with the other sub box and found that our cooling solution was not adequate at temps in the mid 80's. This led to the conclusion that during the very hot times during July and August, I was going to be having some major cooling issues and possibly some equipment issues with the heat. As such, we decided to forego the second sub and use that box as a conduit for the fan to draw cool cabin air and run it over the pc. What we also hope to gain as a secondary benefit is forcing some air across the amps and out the front edge of the false floor right behind the passenger and driver.
Once I have the second box in, the floor painted and mat made, I will post up some final pics of the install and the interior.
Jay
Once I have the second box in, the floor painted and mat made, I will post up some final pics of the install and the interior.
Jay
i think you would need a good sized squirrel cage fan blowing air under the entire floor on 1 side with a vent (s) on the other side to allow the heated air to escape.
either that or run some ducting from the AC into that area with a fan to assist.
it may be possible to fabricate some ducting that runs along the tunnel from the HVAC at the passenger side to get some refrigerated air to the back. i would guess in texas your AC runs just about all the time anyway.
04-20-2011, 12:26 PM
#74
Drifting
Thread Starter
i was actually thinking the same thing while following this thread that heat was going to be a major issue. the floor of the corvette gets pretty warm by itself, combine that with the heat from the electronics. i think the aluminum floor was a good idea but i suspect as much heat as it can dissipate it will also get soaked with heat comming through the floor. and if you lay a mat on top of it will only make it worse.
i think you would need a good sized squirrel cage fan blowing air under the entire floor on 1 side with a vent (s) on the other side to allow the heated air to escape.
either that or run some ducting from the AC into that area with a fan to assist.
it may be possible to fabricate some ducting that runs along the tunnel from the HVAC at the passenger side to get some refrigerated air to the back. i would guess in texas your AC runs just about all the time anyway.
i think you would need a good sized squirrel cage fan blowing air under the entire floor on 1 side with a vent (s) on the other side to allow the heated air to escape.
either that or run some ducting from the AC into that area with a fan to assist.
it may be possible to fabricate some ducting that runs along the tunnel from the HVAC at the passenger side to get some refrigerated air to the back. i would guess in texas your AC runs just about all the time anyway.
I initially had some squirrel cage fans blowing cross flow through the amps but they sucked and didn't move a damn bit of air. So I got some small, very high RPM fans and installed them on either side of the amps in a push-pull configuration. That helped drop the temps maybe 3-4 degrees. Not much of a help.
I thought about the ducting of the A/C as well but three issues with that. First, there is just no room to run a duct from front to back. Second, you can't run it outside the car as it would just heat up. Third, the system is designed to run air through a duct of that length, there would be too much static pressure to overcome.
The only viable option is to draw cool air in and have it exhaust out either actively or passively. I'm hoping with this box and high flow fan that we can pull enough cool air in that it will not only cool the PC but also cool some of the other bits as well and passively exhaust out behind the seats. If that doesn't work, I have one last idea in conjunction with the box fan to cool the amps. But I don't want to do it unless I have to.
Jay
04-20-2011, 11:44 PM
#75
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado
Posts: 1,266
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You have got the same thought process I did while dealing with the heat issue. The majority of the heat comes from the underside of the car and that is mostly due to the exhaust just under the floor. You can see the three amps I have in the previous pictures. There is one amp behind each seat and a third more aft. That aft amp is the sub amp and it sit dab smack over the exhaust. I installed temperature sensors inside of each of the amps as well as the PC and just a general sensor out in the open of the entire system. I can monitor the temps from the PC using the Fusion Brain. I can tell you the sub amp temp runs 20 degrees F more than the other amps and computer.
I initially had some squirrel cage fans blowing cross flow through the amps but they sucked and didn't move a damn bit of air. So I got some small, very high RPM fans and installed them on either side of the amps in a push-pull configuration. That helped drop the temps maybe 3-4 degrees. Not much of a help.
I thought about the ducting of the A/C as well but three issues with that. First, there is just no room to run a duct from front to back. Second, you can't run it outside the car as it would just heat up. Third, the system is designed to run air through a duct of that length, there would be too much static pressure to overcome.
The only viable option is to draw cool air in and have it exhaust out either actively or passively. I'm hoping with this box and high flow fan that we can pull enough cool air in that it will not only cool the PC but also cool some of the other bits as well and passively exhaust out behind the seats. If that doesn't work, I have one last idea in conjunction with the box fan to cool the amps. But I don't want to do it unless I have to.
Jay
I initially had some squirrel cage fans blowing cross flow through the amps but they sucked and didn't move a damn bit of air. So I got some small, very high RPM fans and installed them on either side of the amps in a push-pull configuration. That helped drop the temps maybe 3-4 degrees. Not much of a help.
I thought about the ducting of the A/C as well but three issues with that. First, there is just no room to run a duct from front to back. Second, you can't run it outside the car as it would just heat up. Third, the system is designed to run air through a duct of that length, there would be too much static pressure to overcome.
The only viable option is to draw cool air in and have it exhaust out either actively or passively. I'm hoping with this box and high flow fan that we can pull enough cool air in that it will not only cool the PC but also cool some of the other bits as well and passively exhaust out behind the seats. If that doesn't work, I have one last idea in conjunction with the box fan to cool the amps. But I don't want to do it unless I have to.
Jay
i dont know much about the amps your using but i am willing to bet that 50% of their internals is wasted space and unlike digital power supplies they also generate a lot of heat just wasted in the power supply section.
i just installed 2 JL amps that almost quite literally fit in the palm of your hand. they also generate almost NO heat! i have already had my system playing at a pretty good volume for over 2 hours straight while driving and put my hand on the heat sinks and they were not even warm, i would be willing to go so far as to say they were about the temp i would expect for having been mounted in the hatch area with the exhaust and radiated heat in that area.
i don't have the pic in front of me with all the stuff laid out in your hatch in front of me to suggest what kind of room you have to work with. but let me say that i have a total of 6 channels, 1000 watts of power between these 2 amps and a separate 7th channel for the center speaker which also generates next to nothing as far as heat.
had i decided not to mount them in the hatch i am fairly confident they would have fit above the passengers right foot under the dash behind the glove box with little to no modification under the dash to mount them. not only that when you run the HVAC in recirc there would be plenty of air going right into that area.
the smaller one will almost fit where the factory bose amp was installed, and could be mounted there if you were willing to trim a little plastic from that area.
since you planned to cover the amps up anyway why not just mount them someplace else like i suggest?
if you really wanted to get innovative i know they will actually fit behind the side panels behind the rear speakers. you could mount 1 on each side.
anyway since you mounted temp sensors back there i would be curious as to how hot it actually gets back there with none of the equipment running. i am willing to bet that even a good cooling system would be marginal at best to just keep the ambient temps within a safe limit. anything you add to that environment will only make it that much more difficult to maintain safe temps.
i also think that if you eliminate the amps from that area you might be able to fit the subs in that space easier and actually gain some room in the hatch.
if memory serves from your pics i think about 25% or more of your install is just because of the amps. a multi channel amp that measures 10x7x2 inches will fit just about anyplace you want to put it.
i can also say they pack a pretty good amount of juice (watts) and are really clean!
as i said i hate to make the suggestion because obviously you have put a lot of time into this and i don't even want to know how much money!
but i think you will find this would solve a lot of your problems. perhaps you could build an install similar to mine (you saw in another thread) and showcase some of the components that need additional cooling along the back wall of the trunk if even to just get them from under the floor and out of the heat.
05-02-2011, 01:43 PM
#77
Pro
This is the most intricate build I've ever seen in a 'Vette! WOW! 
Is it "finished"? Can we see the final pics with everything in and reassembled?
I love the black alcantera/CF interior. First saw it while driving the Ferrari F430 Scuderia and decided "one day, it will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine"!
I'm not even going to think about how much $$$ would go into something like this. I hope you're a pro installer and you can write it off as an advertising expense for your business. If not, I suggest starting a business doing this because you clearly have the chops to do some SERIOUS high-end installs!
Is it "finished"? Can we see the final pics with everything in and reassembled?
I love the black alcantera/CF interior. First saw it while driving the Ferrari F430 Scuderia and decided "one day, it will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine"!
I'm not even going to think about how much $$$ would go into something like this. I hope you're a pro installer and you can write it off as an advertising expense for your business. If not, I suggest starting a business doing this because you clearly have the chops to do some SERIOUS high-end installs!
05-02-2011, 02:18 PM
#78
Melting Slicks
This is the most intricate build I've ever seen in a 'Vette! WOW!
Is it "finished"? Can we see the final pics with everything in and reassembled?
I love the black alcantera/CF interior. First saw it while driving the Ferrari F430 Scuderia and decided "one day, it will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine"!
I'm not even going to think about how much $$$ would go into something like this. I hope you're a pro installer and you can write it off as an advertising expense for your business. If not, I suggest starting a business doing this because you clearly have the chops to do some SERIOUS high-end installs!
Is it "finished"? Can we see the final pics with everything in and reassembled?
I love the black alcantera/CF interior. First saw it while driving the Ferrari F430 Scuderia and decided "one day, it will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine"!
I'm not even going to think about how much $$$ would go into something like this. I hope you're a pro installer and you can write it off as an advertising expense for your business. If not, I suggest starting a business doing this because you clearly have the chops to do some SERIOUS high-end installs!
The guy probably has a better career than stereo install homie..just a guess.
05-13-2011, 10:35 AM
#79
Drifting
Thread Starter
i hate to make this suggestion and i am sure you thought of it already, and it would cost you more money of course! but.. but as i read the last 4 pages and having just done my own install in the same car i was thinking to myself all the years that i used to install always asking myself why these manufacturers make such inefficient amplifiers. most of which contain so much wasted airspace inside because like ive always said, people buy with their eyes and not their ears! large heatsinks and heavy amps with heavy gauge wire is what sells!
i dont know much about the amps your using but i am willing to bet that 50% of their internals is wasted space and unlike digital power supplies they also generate a lot of heat just wasted in the power supply section.
i just installed 2 JL amps that almost quite literally fit in the palm of your hand. they also generate almost NO heat! i have already had my system playing at a pretty good volume for over 2 hours straight while driving and put my hand on the heat sinks and they were not even warm, i would be willing to go so far as to say they were about the temp i would expect for having been mounted in the hatch area with the exhaust and radiated heat in that area.
i don't have the pic in front of me with all the stuff laid out in your hatch in front of me to suggest what kind of room you have to work with. but let me say that i have a total of 6 channels, 1000 watts of power between these 2 amps and a separate 7th channel for the center speaker which also generates next to nothing as far as heat.
had i decided not to mount them in the hatch i am fairly confident they would have fit above the passengers right foot under the dash behind the glove box with little to no modification under the dash to mount them. not only that when you run the HVAC in recirc there would be plenty of air going right into that area.
the smaller one will almost fit where the factory bose amp was installed, and could be mounted there if you were willing to trim a little plastic from that area.
since you planned to cover the amps up anyway why not just mount them someplace else like i suggest?
if you really wanted to get innovative i know they will actually fit behind the side panels behind the rear speakers. you could mount 1 on each side.
anyway since you mounted temp sensors back there i would be curious as to how hot it actually gets back there with none of the equipment running. i am willing to bet that even a good cooling system would be marginal at best to just keep the ambient temps within a safe limit. anything you add to that environment will only make it that much more difficult to maintain safe temps.
i also think that if you eliminate the amps from that area you might be able to fit the subs in that space easier and actually gain some room in the hatch.
if memory serves from your pics i think about 25% or more of your install is just because of the amps. a multi channel amp that measures 10x7x2 inches will fit just about anyplace you want to put it.
i can also say they pack a pretty good amount of juice (watts) and are really clean!
as i said i hate to make the suggestion because obviously you have put a lot of time into this and i don't even want to know how much money!
but i think you will find this would solve a lot of your problems. perhaps you could build an install similar to mine (you saw in another thread) and showcase some of the components that need additional cooling along the back wall of the trunk if even to just get them from under the floor and out of the heat.
i dont know much about the amps your using but i am willing to bet that 50% of their internals is wasted space and unlike digital power supplies they also generate a lot of heat just wasted in the power supply section.
i just installed 2 JL amps that almost quite literally fit in the palm of your hand. they also generate almost NO heat! i have already had my system playing at a pretty good volume for over 2 hours straight while driving and put my hand on the heat sinks and they were not even warm, i would be willing to go so far as to say they were about the temp i would expect for having been mounted in the hatch area with the exhaust and radiated heat in that area.
i don't have the pic in front of me with all the stuff laid out in your hatch in front of me to suggest what kind of room you have to work with. but let me say that i have a total of 6 channels, 1000 watts of power between these 2 amps and a separate 7th channel for the center speaker which also generates next to nothing as far as heat.
had i decided not to mount them in the hatch i am fairly confident they would have fit above the passengers right foot under the dash behind the glove box with little to no modification under the dash to mount them. not only that when you run the HVAC in recirc there would be plenty of air going right into that area.
the smaller one will almost fit where the factory bose amp was installed, and could be mounted there if you were willing to trim a little plastic from that area.
since you planned to cover the amps up anyway why not just mount them someplace else like i suggest?
if you really wanted to get innovative i know they will actually fit behind the side panels behind the rear speakers. you could mount 1 on each side.
anyway since you mounted temp sensors back there i would be curious as to how hot it actually gets back there with none of the equipment running. i am willing to bet that even a good cooling system would be marginal at best to just keep the ambient temps within a safe limit. anything you add to that environment will only make it that much more difficult to maintain safe temps.
i also think that if you eliminate the amps from that area you might be able to fit the subs in that space easier and actually gain some room in the hatch.
if memory serves from your pics i think about 25% or more of your install is just because of the amps. a multi channel amp that measures 10x7x2 inches will fit just about anyplace you want to put it.
i can also say they pack a pretty good amount of juice (watts) and are really clean!
as i said i hate to make the suggestion because obviously you have put a lot of time into this and i don't even want to know how much money!
but i think you will find this would solve a lot of your problems. perhaps you could build an install similar to mine (you saw in another thread) and showcase some of the components that need additional cooling along the back wall of the trunk if even to just get them from under the floor and out of the heat.
The heat is only really an issue when the temps are above 95...which is a big chunk of time in Texas. During the other cooler months it's still gets warm back there, 100-110 but during the summer, temps have climbed high enough to engage Zapco's thermal cutoff at 180. However, that only happened during August last year when temps were 106-110 and that was sitting in traffic at an idle.
Jay
05-13-2011, 10:38 AM
#80
Drifting
Thread Starter
This is the most intricate build I've ever seen in a 'Vette! WOW!
Is it "finished"? Can we see the final pics with everything in and reassembled?
I love the black alcantera/CF interior. First saw it while driving the Ferrari F430 Scuderia and decided "one day, it will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine"!
I'm not even going to think about how much $$$ would go into something like this. I hope you're a pro installer and you can write it off as an advertising expense for your business. If not, I suggest starting a business doing this because you clearly have the chops to do some SERIOUS high-end installs!
Is it "finished"? Can we see the final pics with everything in and reassembled?
I love the black alcantera/CF interior. First saw it while driving the Ferrari F430 Scuderia and decided "one day, it will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine"!
I'm not even going to think about how much $$$ would go into something like this. I hope you're a pro installer and you can write it off as an advertising expense for your business. If not, I suggest starting a business doing this because you clearly have the chops to do some SERIOUS high-end installs!
Not a pro installed, just a crazy DIY perfectionist. It took me a year to finish in my spare time, I suspect I'd starve if I tried to do this for a living. Besides, it's a project I told myself I would never do again.
Jay