Got all the stuff!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
Got all the stuff!
So I am preparing to do the consummate audio install in the next week. I did all the planning, got lots of forum advice, selected the right components, ordered everything ... and now I'm ready to start taking the interior apart. I'll be posting step-by-steps on each level soon and attached is a photo of all the parts for grins. This is very exciting ... 
Last edited by Thrash; Nov 17, 2011 at 04:07 PM. Reason: typo
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 10,954
Likes: 261
From: Greensboro NC
2015 C6 of the Year Finalist
Looking good. I look forward to following your experience and photos as I will be doing the same thing in the next few months.
Don't skimp on the instructions of taking everything apart and how you route all of the wiring.
Are you changing the head unit? ........ doing a rear view camera?
Don't skimp on the instructions of taking everything apart and how you route all of the wiring.
Are you changing the head unit? ........ doing a rear view camera?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
Looking good. I look forward to following your experience and photos as I will be doing the same thing in the next few months.
Don't skimp on the instructions of taking everything apart and how you route all of the wiring.
Are you changing the head unit? ........ doing a rear view camera?
Don't skimp on the instructions of taking everything apart and how you route all of the wiring.
Are you changing the head unit? ........ doing a rear view camera?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 8
From: Issaquah WA
IIRC, you got the Pyle coaxes for next to nothing, but I still can't believe with how thorough you're being, and the quality of the stuff that you're using, that you're going to have THE most critical part of your sound reproduction dictated by the fact that they were cheap! 
.
(and this is coming from someone with a soft spot for Pyle Drivers... Back in the day it was 80% of what I used to sell... Morel and Dynaudio and Vifa being the other 20%)
Everything else looks great! Have fun with the instal!
. (and this is coming from someone with a soft spot for Pyle Drivers... Back in the day it was 80% of what I used to sell... Morel and Dynaudio and Vifa being the other 20%)
Everything else looks great! Have fun with the instal!
Last edited by WAwatchnut; Nov 16, 2011 at 06:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
I'm doing the Big-3 thing (Alt to Batt, Batt to GND and all) and running a power lead from the B+ into the cabin & to a power block (fuses near the batt). I'm adding a multi-connect post clamp. Grounding to the frame at the pass. door.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
IIRC, you got the Pyle coaxes for next to nothing, but I still can't believe with how thorough you're being, and the quality of the stuff that you're using, that you're going to have THE most critical part of your sound reproduction dictated by the fact that they were cheap! .
(and this is coming from someone with a soft spot for Pyle Drivers... Back in the day it was 80% of what I used to sell... Morel and Dynaudio and Vifa being the other 20%)
Have fun with the instal!
. (and this is coming from someone with a soft spot for Pyle Drivers... Back in the day it was 80% of what I used to sell... Morel and Dynaudio and Vifa being the other 20%)
Have fun with the instal!
I disagree that the 3.5" location on the doors is the most critical part, the lower 6.5's, pillar tweets and dual 10" subs are the major stage. Anyway, it's just a temp thing at worse. I like the idea of having some mid up at that level with a tweet (coax instead of just tweets) -but may put tweets there instead -or better 3.5's, depends on how it sounds. The Pyle 3.5's are decent, great specs and really heavy, I just thought this was a worthy approach, as there will be Focal tweets on the pillars. I worried about too many tweets that high. Plus I had the Pyles and why not use them? Thanks and appreciate the input, loving the forum at every post ...
Last edited by Thrash; Nov 16, 2011 at 05:39 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 466
Likes: 12
From: Tampa FL
This is awesome! I was about to post roughly the same type of posting as I am about to start my own install (along with a buddy of mine doing an install on his Z too) here shortly. I'll still post mine though not as thorough as yours!
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 737
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From: Edwardsville IL
Thrash writes: "I'll be posting step-by-steps on each level soon..."
WE WISH YOU GOOD LUCK!
I'll be watching your progress on a frequent basis! The shop manual sometimes points to a section and states remove..... wow - i frequently need more detail than that if I am not going to break things. This R&R needs to be pretty well foolproof for me - thanks in advance for your efforts.
WE WISH YOU GOOD LUCK!
I'll be watching your progress on a frequent basis! The shop manual sometimes points to a section and states remove..... wow - i frequently need more detail than that if I am not going to break things. This R&R needs to be pretty well foolproof for me - thanks in advance for your efforts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 972
Likes: 6
From: Middle of Redneck Hell, NC
St. Jude Donor '09
Two Questions -
1 - Am I somehow missing your AMPLIFIERS in the pic above?
2 - Did you buy all that hardware (speakers, amps, controllers, etc.) from Rick at RAAM Audio?
.
1 - Am I somehow missing your AMPLIFIERS in the pic above?
2 - Did you buy all that hardware (speakers, amps, controllers, etc.) from Rick at RAAM Audio?
.
Last edited by EvilBoffin; Nov 17, 2011 at 02:25 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 8
From: Issaquah WA
I disagree that the 3.5" location on the doors is the most critical part, the lower 6.5's, pillar tweets and dual 10" subs are the major stage. Anyway, it's just a temp thing at worse. I like the idea of having some mid up at that level with a tweet (coax instead of just tweets) -but may put tweets there instead -or better 3.5's, depends on how it sounds. The Pyle 3.5's are decent, great specs and really heavy, I just thought this was a worthy approach, as there will be Focal tweets on the pillars. I worried about too many tweets that high. Plus I had the Pyles and why not use them? Thanks and appreciate the input, loving the forum at every post ...
The reason I think they're critical though is that the lower midrange, mid bass, and sub, are all much less critical of the gear IMHO. Differences in quality of midrange and high frequency reproduction are quite often much more perceptible to listeners, and the difference between good and great speakers are more noticeable in the upper frequencies than lower.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,151
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I am also in the process of installing an audio system in my 2011 GS coupe.
I noticed that you are going to install (2ea) 10" subs in the rear.
I may be very wrong, but that seems like overkill for a car that only has a total interior size of 52 Cu. Ft.
I am just thinking that with that much sub ... the system might sound a little 'boomy' even if pushed to even medium levels.
Maybe I am looking at this all wrong?
I noticed that you are going to install (2ea) 10" subs in the rear.
I may be very wrong, but that seems like overkill for a car that only has a total interior size of 52 Cu. Ft.
I am just thinking that with that much sub ... the system might sound a little 'boomy' even if pushed to even medium levels.
Maybe I am looking at this all wrong?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
Yes, a friend has one I can borrow
ahhhh... I missed the fact that you were putting in focal tweeters also. If you're using them just for reinforcement, they may be okay. Id still be worried about the differences in sound between the focal and pyle tweets muddying up the sound, but you'll hear that quickly enough.
The reason i think they're critical though is that the lower midrange, mid bass, and sub, are all much less critical of the gear imho. Differences in quality of midrange and high frequency reproduction are quite often much more perceptible to listeners, and the difference between good and great speakers are more noticeable in the upper frequencies than lower.
The reason i think they're critical though is that the lower midrange, mid bass, and sub, are all much less critical of the gear imho. Differences in quality of midrange and high frequency reproduction are quite often much more perceptible to listeners, and the difference between good and great speakers are more noticeable in the upper frequencies than lower.
i am also in the process of installing an audio system in my 2011 gs coupe.
I noticed that you are going to install (2ea) 10" subs in the rear.
I may be very wrong, but that seems like overkill for a car that only has a total interior size of 52 cu. Ft.
I am just thinking that with that much sub ... The system might sound a little 'boomy' even if pushed to even medium levels.
Maybe i am looking at this all wrong?
I noticed that you are going to install (2ea) 10" subs in the rear.
I may be very wrong, but that seems like overkill for a car that only has a total interior size of 52 cu. Ft.
I am just thinking that with that much sub ... The system might sound a little 'boomy' even if pushed to even medium levels.
Maybe i am looking at this all wrong?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 8
From: Issaquah WA
I am also in the process of installing an audio system in my 2011 GS coupe.
I noticed that you are going to install (2ea) 10" subs in the rear.
I may be very wrong, but that seems like overkill for a car that only has a total interior size of 52 Cu. Ft.
I am just thinking that with that much sub ... the system might sound a little 'boomy' even if pushed to even medium levels.
Maybe I am looking at this all wrong?
I noticed that you are going to install (2ea) 10" subs in the rear.
I may be very wrong, but that seems like overkill for a car that only has a total interior size of 52 Cu. Ft.
I am just thinking that with that much sub ... the system might sound a little 'boomy' even if pushed to even medium levels.
Maybe I am looking at this all wrong?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,151
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Jeeeze ... now I feel that I might not have enough sub in my coupe after I get this system together.
I installed a JL Audio 8" sub powered by a 5-channel Arc Audio XDi805 (240 watts RMS into the sub)
I installed a JL Audio 8" sub powered by a 5-channel Arc Audio XDi805 (240 watts RMS into the sub)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
In a coupe, 1-10" will definitely keep up with any front end you put in, but there are advantages to dual 10's. More presence to the bass, better clarity at higher volumes, etc. Overkill for most people, but not necessarily wasted. I've been toying with the idea of adding a second 10 in mine.
You might be fine in a coupe, but that is a really small sub. I'm also using the XDi805 for the subs, so adding the 2nd 4 ohm sub makes it a 2-ohm load and 200 watts x 2 power (printed spec is 400w x 1 at 2 ohm), right?
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Long Island New York