When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Very nice. That 8" does cover a lot. Is that a band-pass setting or it's natural roll-off? What mid and tweeter are you running? I forgot and don't want to re-read the whole novel again.
I'm bummed on my build. Hurt my shoulder the other day, so no progress.
So it's a band-pass filter, that we selected after playing it full signal. So it's a band-pass based off it's natural roll off. The mid is a the Dayton RS100-4 and the tweeter is the Focal TN-53. Bummer about your shoulder bro.
Very nice. That 8" does cover a lot. Is that a band-pass setting or it's natural roll-off? What mid and tweeter are you running? I forgot and don't want to re-read the whole novel again.
I'm bummed on my build. Hurt my shoulder the other day, so no progress.
Sorry I missed the question bro. Dayton RS100-4 mid and Focal TN-53 tweet.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Jun 24, 2020 at 11:22 AM.
This thread is a good read for sure. I'm now interested to see how the new 10" Timpano Audio shallow drivers would sounds in the doors. Would be great to not really need a sub.
Man, I think that would be cool, but I don't think going sub-less is possible in the C6. The door are just too thin to put any real sub-ish type driver in there. You could obviously run 10" shallow subs (not ideal) or regular drivers all day long. While they would give good mid-bass (down to about 60 Hz or so, they just won't have the oomph a dedicated subwoofer does. And I think without significant reinforcement, a sub would rattle like crazy in there and sound terrible. A sub I think is an unfortunate necessity in the corvette if you want any kind of accurate reproduction of music.
Man, I think that would be cool, but I don't think going sub-less is possible in the C6. The door are just too thin to put any real sub-ish type driver in there. You could obviously run 10" shallow subs (not ideal) or regular drivers all day long. While they would give good mid-bass (down to about 60 Hz or so, they just won't have the oomph a dedicated subwoofer does. And I think without significant reinforcement, a sub would rattle like crazy in there and sound terrible. A sub I think is an unfortunate necessity in the corvette if you want any kind of accurate reproduction of music.
Originally Posted by PCMusicGuy
This thread is a good read for sure. I'm now interested to see how the new 10" Timpano Audio shallow drivers would sounds in the doors. Would be great to not really need a sub.
yeah... I bought them but then decided not to use them. I went ahead and used the MBQUART slim sub that I used in my C6 since I knew those sounded good. I haven't finished my install. Working from home and don't really drive it much. In the C6, I only played the MBQuart down to 60Hz, but they still sound good and got loud on 100W/Channel RMS.
I did do another C7 with Audio Control micro amps, JL Stealth box, and Dayton Audio 10 shallow mounts in the door. Dynamat everywhere. He's pretty happy.
I did do another C7 with Audio Control micro amps, JL Stealth box, and Dayton Audio 10 shallow mounts in the door. Dynamat everywhere. He's pretty happy.
Small update:
8" drivers were broken in finally and it sounded like my time alignment was affected from it. I thought no way a speaker breaking in would affect TA. But, sure enough. Threw the mic array back in the for another session, and my time alignment was off by about ~6 ms. (Some drivers had more, some less, sub was fine). But how is this possible? Simple. The speaker you use to time align your system is the furthest one from your ears. In the C6, its the passenger woofer. Since the woofers recently installed were the new guys, and they were the base point of the TA measurements, after they broke in, the TA was affected on all the other drivers. So after the TA, we did a full re-tune. I did make one mistake. I adjusted the woofers to line up with the curve even down at like 60-80 Hz (like the red line in the picture) which had some pretty big bumps to gain down low. I tried to raise the bass to have a more full sound even when the sub isn't playing. This resulted in a woofer "popping" sound that you get when the driver is at or near xmax. So I had to make some gain cuts in that area to flatten the curves out to back to the purple line. All good now.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Dec 17, 2020 at 01:28 PM.
Reason: pic added
i was more along the lines of you adjusting stuff maybe and really like to meet up and hear your system in person one day .
Well, there's a cars and coffee coming up on 6 Feb that I was planning on going to. We could meet up there and you could check it out. It's the one in Morrisville. Cars and Coffee Morrisville - Home | Facebook
UPDATE!
Talked with my box builder last week. We're beginning the box build so I can make my final transition to the TWO 13.5" JL TW5s and 1000W amp. Pics and data coming...along with more tuning!
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Feb 22, 2021 at 02:54 PM.
Details are as follows:
Material used will be birch. Approximately 42" x 16" x 8". The amps will be set into a small cubby with removable beauty panels with magnets to secure them. We'll then bondo it up, sand it, prime it, and paint it. Once installed, more tuning will happen along with impressions.