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New parts rolling in...
25' 1/0 OFC cable
KnuKoncepts Ultimate battery terminals
Fastronix 250A high current master fuse
Cable lugs (just having to wait on crimpers)
I now have a 1/0 cable directly connecting my alternator to battery. I've completely eliminated the OEM 6 gauge alternator to starter cable. After firing it up, ZERO issues or warning lights thus far. Planning on buttoning things up today, and then doing some test driving tomorrow. This will eliminate the alternator from being able to push too much spiciness through the starter and main battery circuit. I did cut open the fusible link after doing a continuity and resistance test, and it tested okay. After heating it with a torch, the resistance went all wonky. So I'm still hopin the FL was the culprit. The down side is that if my car still has the hot start issue, it is now 100% a smoked starter. Fingers crossed. New battery post setup. Yes, I'm going to put a boot over the exposed lug. Just waiting on delivery. Here's my fuse location. Left rear cubby. Connection point to the alternator.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Sep 18, 2021 at 10:18 PM.
Interesting (and timely) observation. It made me go back and rethink a hot restart problem I was having. I have my battery relocated to the Z06/GS location with a proper 2AWG cable, but I would have slow cranking and the occasional crankshaft sensor fault (which occurs at low voltage) at the same time. I looked at how I had it wired and realized that I had the 2AWG run to the junction point on my factory fuse box under the hood with the OEM connection from there to the starter.
The factory has a DIRECT (unfused) 4AWG connection from the battery to the starter, with yet another fusible link from the starter back to the junction point on the fuse box. So, like you, I realized that I need to bypass that FL for the cranking circuit. I do have a 150A fuse on the 2AWG lead from the battery, so I added another 100A fuse under the hood and used it as a new junction point. Now the battery goes through only the first 150A fuse and then direct to the starter while the rest of the fuse box is protected by the second 100A fuse as well.
I have had zero issues with amp output, but I only have a JL HD750 and 300/4 running my system. Both of those are wired to the battery in the rear (with their own fuses) and capable of delivering rated output power even at 12v if alternator output was limited there briefly.
So...it IS better. A lot better than it was. Apparently, a powerful alternator gets that starter solenoid hot AS ****...and by bypassing the starter, it stays much cooler. So fingers crossed that that was 90-95% of the main issue.
Took it out today and got it as hot as I could, and while still slow-ER than when cold...she started. Several times. Repeatable. It appears as if I'm good to go. Going to finish up the optimization of the audio wiring tomorrow and put her all back together.
Well...I can FINALLY say it. And I actually MEAN it this time. I'm 100% DONE! My install is as installed as it's going to get. The final mod was a remote charging point for a power source to use while we're tuning. As you can see from my previous pics (and the ones below) there was no way to hook a power supply up to the current positive terminal I am using. So my solution? See below. Will also be helpful for dealerships (if I ever bring it to one) to keep her charged. Added my new kicker negative terminal Had to trim the cover a bit. Ran 4 gauge wire into an 8 gauge reducer. Just pop on some gator clips and done. And the battery box cover still fits.
So yep. I'm done. I had originally wanted to put this on the outside of the car like behind one of the tail lights on the rear bulk head, but I would've had to drill a pretty big hole in the bulk head to run those cables through. This is the simpler and cleaner approach.
All that's left now is to finish up with tuning! No more hot start issues, not more power issues. Just enjoyment. Long road...but so worth it when you crank up the tunes!
I torched an amplifier. I kept blowing the 80A fuse, even with no load. Apparently, JL mono amps do NOT like 1 ohm loads. So, I had to buy a new amp. And as long of a JL fanboy I've been...no JL amps are 1 ohm stable. So...I made the transition to a Kicker CXA1200.1. Should be ideal for my combo. 1200W x 1 at 1 ohm which means I'll have 600W RMS going to to each sub. I've heard some bad things about Kicker, but it usually turns out that a poor electrical/charging system is the cause most (if not all) the time. I definitely don't have to worry about that. It's also one of the only amplifiers that will fit in my box.
