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Believe me, I thought about it...but it wouldn't be historically very accurate. There was only one pin-up per plane. More than one was "bad-luck" in the aircrew world.
At idle with cutouts closed As loud as it can go with a hard hitting song 110.8 is the db to beat.
Somehow, I don't think it's will be hard to beat 110.8 with double the power AND double the cone area. My guess is when it's all said and done and tuned, I'll be flirting with 120 db.
Added 1 sheet of CLD tile per box, and stuffed them with poly-fill. The wiring is a bit cumbersome, I'll have to tweak that stuff later. Can't tell with the lid on her anyways...but SHE'S IN THERE! For Jeff... More for Jeff... This is the DRC-205 One more for Jeff...
We're hoping we can get to tuning on Friday...going to have to see how the weather does. I'm also going to have to get really creative with how I put the panels together...this box absolutely HAMMERS, so much so that EVERYTHING rattles if it's not held down TIGHT.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Jun 27, 2021 at 07:10 PM.
Fixed now. Although I'm now faced with another possibly complex problem. The main battery fuse (60A) popped under hood. My amps are powered directly off the battery (like all car audio installs). I have ZERO doubts that this fuse popped because of the audio...the question is WHY? My fuses for the amps are 80A each which makes me wonder if the 60A fuse is going to pop if I let the audio "eat" again...or worse, every time I do. I don't want to up the fuse rating in the fuse block because I don't want to burn my car down. And I also wonder if it was a fluke thing? There are dudes out there running 5 times the power I am on the same fuse, and they aren't having this issue. Or at least not that they make known. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the main battery?
Fixed now. Although I'm now faced with another possibly complex problem. The main battery fuse (60A) popped under hood. My amps are powered directly off the battery (like all car audio installs). I have ZERO doubts that this fuse popped because of the audio...the question is WHY? My fuses for the amps are 80A each which makes me wonder if the 60A fuse is going to pop if I let the audio "eat" again...or worse, every time I do. I don't want to up the fuse rating in the fuse block because I don't want to burn my car down. And I also wonder if it was a fluke thing? There are dudes out there running 5 times the power I am on the same fuse, and they aren't having this issue. Or at least not that they make known. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the main battery?
I'm not understanding why the main battery 60 amp fuse popped especially since your running the amp fuses directly off the battery. I agree in not upping the 60 amp main battery fuse, I think you'd only be asking for trouble there. I'm just wondering if possibly your 60 amp fuse could have had a slight defect that caused it to pop in the first place. If it were me, I think I'd just hook everything back up and trying it again with the new 60 amp fuse and see what happens, and take it from there.
So the problem appears to be that my alternator is too powerful for the hot side wiring in the car under times of high electrical demand. This is a VERY rookie mistake on my part, and I suppose I just had faith that GM didn't skimp on cable size. Well as you can see in the diagram below, the wires coming off the main battery run to the starter, and then to the alternator through a fusible link. That whole circuit is only rated to 60A. That's also how I popped that fuse. The alternator provided too much current for that circuit when the system was getting after it and popped the fuse and began to melt the fusible link. That's why I'm having hot start issues (car won't start when hot), but ironically, no "Service Charging System" warning. I don't think the FL is completely toasted...yet. So to fix this problem for good, I'm going to attach a 1/0 (minimum) cable directly from the alternator to the battery and put a fairly large fuse on it for protection. I also need to repair the fusible link cable from the alternator to the starter. This should solve all my issues and finally allow me to tune and enjoy this car. So learn from my mistakes folks. If you want to run a lot of power, it's best to get a HO alternator, and wire it DIRECTLY to the battery to protect the sensitive electronics in the car.
And here is why the doors and the other stuff didn't work when that fuse popped. See the fuse (in the red box) and what's on the downstream side of it. It all makes sense now.
