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May have hurt woofers...hearing static from them. Not sure what is going on. I plugged in the laptop and fired up the TuN to make some changes. I could make the static go away when I turned the db WAAAAY down. My last setup crossover freqs were as follows:
Tweets 4K hz and up (around -6/-5.5 db)
Mids - 400 - 4K hz (around -1/-2 db)
Woofs - 75 - 400 Hz (12.0 10.5 db)
rears - 200 - 2K hz (4.0 - 4.5 db)
Sub - 20 - 90 hz (7.0 db)
This gave me okay volume, but I wanted more. As you can see, the passenger woofer was already at +12 db, so I couldn't turn the "noise floor" up any more. So I started adjusting frequency ranges to the following:
Tweets 4K hz and up (around -6/-5.5 db)
Mids - 750 - 4K hz (around -1/-2 db) You really couldn't tell a difference when going from 400 Hz to 750 Hz. Barely discernable. But sounded much better when pairing with the woofer.
Woofs - 75 - 750 Hz (0.5 - 1.0 db) I like the 750 Hz number. This really provided the most "balanced" sound from the 3 way. I think this will be my baseline crossover points from here on out.
rears - 200 - 2K hz (4.0 - 4.5 db)
Sub - 20 - 90 hz (5.0 db)
When I started listening to individual drivers, that's when I heard the static coming from the woofers and thought WTF! That should NOT be happening. With the filters set the way the were, there is no way I could damage a driver. I went into trouble shooting and started pulling db out of the woofers. When I got them down to like -10 db, the static went away. This made me wonder why it was behaving that way. I'm definitely not outside of it's design parameters, I'm not giving it much power at all. Could it be the HU? Maybe. Even though we tested it's clipping point, I wonder if the signal output from the HU at huge db gain levels is causing a distortion in the driver? So for now, I have everything set on very low gains until I can sort the issue out.
More about the sub. It sounds GREAT...when parked. But get her out on the highway, and bass disappears. The combination of wind noise on the roof (only area not deadened) and position kill bass. My solution is totally clear. Two DOWNFIRING subs with a TON of power should do the trick. It better, because after I build this next enclosure, that's it! NO MAS! LOL! Thanks for sticking around this far...
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Aug 7, 2019 at 10:06 AM.
I took some new measurements after the VB2 install (no music playing).
Road noise 80 mph (M2W open) - 79.8 db
Road noise 80 mph (M2W closed) - 73.5 db
To put this into perspective, the normal speaking voice at normal conversation volume is about 75-80 db (subjective to who's talking obviously). That means when the exhaust is in quiet mode, you could literally whisper to each other in my car and hear each other perfectly clear. The wife and I took a spin to test that hypothesis, and yep...we could whisper to each other. I have another mod coming that I think will quiet the car down even more. I'm moving to a coil over suspension because IMO the transverse leaf spring in the vette's acts like a giant tuning fork. I can then isolate the suspension mounting points with some MLV/CCF. Way overkill I know, but hey...small efforts can lead to big results. I also want to install some Focal BAM on the headliner area. That truly is the one area that I hear the most noise from right now...and the wheels. I also found a new product in the Tesla world that drops dbs even more. Mainly, it’s an acoustic door seal kit that adds a significant STC rating increase. IMO it’s worth the 30ish bucks to try. Also, Forrest and I spent one more 8-hour day tuning. We made some pretty significant changes. The final freq ranges are:
Tweets – 4 KHz – 20K+ Hz on a 24 db L/R high pass crossover
Mids – 713 Hz – 4 KHz on a 24 db L/R high/low pass crossover
Woofs – 85 Hz – 713 Hz on a 48 db L/R low pass crossover and 24 db BW high pass crossover
Sub – 20 Hz – 90 Hz on a 24 db BW low pass crossover
We found that reducing the ranges to an 18 db reduction at the Fs of the driver is ideal for the safety and longevity of each driver. That’s why there’s a wonky 48 db curve in the woofers. That makes it so the woofer reaches an 18 db reduction in output at its specific resonant frequency. It also works out that the drivers absolutely love these ranges and crossovers.
A word about polarity. Here’ is something that we found by chance, but made a HUGE impact. It turns out that tuning by individual driver is the ideal way to tune. BUT! If you do not run the entire system and check the polarity of each driver, you could miss something major. In my case, and in the C6, this was absolutely true. Turns out that when I said, hey, let’s play all the drivers and do a polarity check, that’s where all my midbass was hiding. When we (in the driver’s seat listening position) flipped the polarity of the passenger rear speaker, we immediately saw a 10 db INCREASE in the 100-550hz range across the entire range. Holy crap! 10 db?!?! So, we started testing the individual drivers again and flipping the polarity of each driver. It turns out the rear drivers are really important in the C6. They increased the midbass 10 db by just dialing them in. This was the smoking gun in my “lack of midbass.” What’s more is that it was true for every position we tuned for (driver, passenger, and center). For the passenger side, the driver rear needed a flipped polarity to pick up the midbass. Same for the center. When we did this, it made such a HUGE difference. The sound in the car became absolutely beautiful and full. I can FINALLY say, my active 8-way now sounds better than my truck…and convincingly so. This is easily the BEST this system has ever sounded. I know I’ve said that a lot through this build, but it’s not just me this time. Everyone that has experienced this system since its build has heard it now, and have been as blown away as I am. We figured it out man! This is the cleanest system I’ve heard…and I love it. The sound deadening is going well, and it’s all working. It can only get better from here. I hope this update helps someone. If you ever have questions about audio…please hit me up. I think tuning a C6 could be a full time job. I’m happy to help Corvette folks. Now, I just need to replace my wounded sub.
Time to write a book about this...might make a few bucks on it.
Wonder how many people throw in a new stereo and have no idea how it could sound..this is a big mystery to most.
Just like home theater..seen some incredibly bad setups in my day. Best one was all the speakers on a table in the corner...awesome...
I can't wait to get this on the car. 220 amps at 600 rpm, and 290 amps at 1800+ rpm. Should be more than enough to power everything in the car. I can't stress how gorgeous the inner windings and wiring of this thing are. They look perfect! Swapping out the OEM alternator cable for a 0 gauge OFC. Just the cable swap will be pretty involved. But hey...gotta do it right? I also like the custom personal touches, hand-written note and custom pigtail (if needed) for my specific vehicle. If you're interested in getting one, contact Singer Alternators and talk to Michael. Tell him Garry sent ya.
Easter egg 2 coming tomorrow.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Feb 21, 2020 at 06:18 PM.
Those are the 13TW5V2's. I also run the TW1's in my truck. I run about 150W RMS @ 1.5 ohm on them and they sound amazing. I agree that 500W is a bit much for a TW1.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Feb 23, 2020 at 09:58 AM.
Just for giggles, I ran both speakers on my 600W amp to "test" them. OMG! Just ONE of these hits jut as hard if not harder than my 10W7. Two of these are going to be absolutely ridiculous. So of course...I have to do it.
My 12tw1's in ported boxes absolutely pound. Are these sealed or ported? I assume you will use them in the box as is,?
Next is going to have to upgrade the front stage because you have too much bass.
