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Now that I've watched about 20 hours of Car Audio Fabrication...Guess I have to revisit a few things. Some sound deadening is in order. I still have a feeling that I'm not going to like the sound with those Bose woofers in there.
Update:
Speakers are definitely broken in. That required a re-tune. So we decided to experiment a little bit. I wanted to let the Daytons eat a little more. I had the Focal's running from 70-1750 Hz and then 4500-20KHz. The poor Daytons were only playing from 1750-4500 Hz. Their sweet spot is more 250-4K Hz. So we gave that a shot. (Side note: Most of the pro's say that your 3.5"-4" drivers are the ones that play the most information. This influenced me to make some significant changes I describe.) Adjusted as follows:
Tweets 4000 Hz and up
Mids - 400 - 4000 Hz (Settled 500-4000)
6.5" - 55-400 Hz. (Settled 75Hz - 500)
That sounded good but caused the woofers to distort (their Fs is 55 hz). Bumped them up to 75 Hz and the distortion went away. Bumped all the db's back up to where they were playing at max output. I must admit, run this way, the overall system didn't seem as "loud" as it was before. You can hear it just fine, but there were times I found myself reaching for the **** to turn the highs up louder, and the **** was maxed out. I think I know the fix. I want to bump the 6.5's to 500 Hz and the mids as well. Then I think we need to raise the noise floor from -36 db to around -30db and tune accordingly. I think that will bring back the db I was missing with the new tune. One weird phenomenon is that making the huge change to the 4" speakers seemed to "pull" the sound stage to the left. The time alignment settings haven't changed...so this is something we'll have to investigate further. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention...the 10W7AE is going buh-bye. It's served me well, but it's just not enough, and honestly, I think it's hurt. I've gotten several years out of it and it's lived a long hard life. What am I replacing it with? I'm glad you asked. Not 1, but 2 13.5 inch subs. I'm going with two JL 13TW5v2s and switching to a 1000/1 HD amp. The sub box will be removed and replaced with an entire purpose built enclosure. I'm going to make it a bit more appealing on the eyes as well as more permanent. It will incorporate the amps with the VXi proudly displayed and the subs probably facing downward to reduce panel reflections (at least in theory). I do for sure want to get this front stage perfect and then determine exactly where the subs need to come in. But I'm 99.9% sure the 2 13TW5s will get me where I need my system to be.
I suppose I should change the title of my thread from "Finished my install" to "The ever evolving install" LOL! Thanks for keeping with me this far. I'll keep pics coming as I acquire more goodies.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Jun 18, 2020 at 03:55 PM.
Cone area matters! If I was going to run a single sub, knowing what I know now, having paid the tuition for this education, I'd run a 13W7 or 2 of the BIGGEST shallows I could fit in the space I was willing to sacrifice (which is what I'm doing now). The 13TW5v2 is actually a 13.5" sub. So I'll have 27" of cone area on 1000W RMS. Should hammer pretty good.
Cone area matters! If I was going to run a single sub, knowing what I know now, having paid the tuition for this education, I'd run a 13W7 or 2 of the BIGGEST shallows I could fit in the space I was willing to sacrifice (which is what I'm doing now). The 13TW5v2 is actually a 13.5" sub. So I'll have 27" of cone area on 1000W RMS. Should hammer pretty good.
I'm going back to my dual 12tw1. Different slot ported box than my other thread, but still to spec. Port designed by jlaudio tech. So.. 24 inches.
Why ported? Sealed would be a better choice for that sub.
I tried sealed. It was fine. Then I tried ported... never going back to sealed. It is so much better at reproducing the very bottom. It is something you would have to hear to appreciate the bigger ported box. I've had jlaudio design/spec all boxes that I've tried. My first ported box took up 90% if my trunk floor. This new one will take up just the front. I get the sound and space I want.
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I tried sealed. It was fine. Then I tried ported... never going back to sealed. It is so much better at reproducing the very bottom. It is something you would have to hear to appreciate the bigger ported box. I've had jlaudio design/spec all boxes that I've tried. My first ported box took up 90% if my trunk floor. This new one will take up just the front. I get the sound and space I want.
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Roger that. That's what matters. I didn't recall JL ever recommending ported boxes for their shallows. But hey, I'm still learning stuff too. You'll never do sealed...I'll never run Bose. Win win on both accounts.
Roger that. That's what matters. I didn't recall JL ever recommending ported boxes for their shallows. But hey, I'm still learning stuff too. You'll never do sealed...I'll never run Bose. Win win on both accounts.
Yeah bose for car sucks. The only bose that I have left are those little labels on the doors.
Just finished putting in the new Hu and without even adjusting anything it sound much cleaner..not going to bother
Adjusting it until the focals go in..and then i know ill be buying that jl box..then ill try to get it tuned at a shop...then im done..for now
Your write up has put me on the right track...
And now that ive watched several vids on parametric EQ's...there is no way to do it yourself...might be fun to play around with it though.
Quick update:
Finally got around to installing the Cascade audio VB2. It's a thin adhesive Mass Loaded vinyl that sticks better than Dynamat, and actually blocks sound instead of reducing vibrations. Product is here: CAE VB2 Sorry for the crap pics. It was really hot so I just took cell phone pics. I have an OLD cell phone. Before VB2 Some deep recesses After VB2
Doors are MUCH quieter. I'm going to take her out for a spin this week some time.
