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Negative sir. I'm going to have a custom fiberglass enclosure built. It will house both subs and both amps and a nitrous bottle. I don't really need the cargo area as I don't daily drive this thing. So why not balance out the weight and tie the rear of the car together with the rest of the theme, ya know?
Fiberglass is just like paper mache with better chemicals...
EDIT: My bad blue...I was making an assumption.
True statement. I just don't have enough experience with it to do exactly as I'm envisioning. I have a metric **** ton of tools...but very little in the way of wood working and fiber-glassing. So...I've painted myself into a corner on this one.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; Feb 25, 2020 at 09:36 AM.
HA!
I wasn't criticizing, just making an observation. It is more of an art than a science, much like wood working. You can measure all you want but without patience, skill, & talent then forget it: Curves aren't forgiving.
I can't wait to see what you end up with. I decided to spend $ in other areas this spring (ceramic coating, wheels, & tune), the sound upgrade in my car will have to wait. I will have to live vicariously for now.
Last edited by Bigblue77; Feb 25, 2020 at 09:48 PM.
Have to decide what to do with some of my year end bonus. I think sticking with audio is better than go fast stuff.
Love this thread..you have invented...alternator ****!
True statement. I just don't have enough experience with it to do exactly as I'm envisioning. I have a metric **** ton of tools...but very little in the way of wood working and fiber-glassing. So...I've painted myself into a corner on this one.
A lightweight and easy alternative. The cutting is the hard part . Strong midbass up front is needed.
So for kicks and grins, I decided to have a head to head shoot out last night. A single 10W7AE vs a single 13TW5V2 in an output competition. All metrics were the same...meaning I made ZERO amp adjustment, ZERO HU sub channel output adjustments...nothing. Literally, unplugged one and plugged in the other. This is a very fair test since both subs ideal power output (or max in the case of the 13TW5) is 600W which is the amp I had running.
For some fun...take a guess at the db output. I'll post the results this afternoon...or if someone guesses correct. I'll give the first metric... 1XX.X db.
Dang bro...not really. I thought there'd be more participation, lol! The W7 put out 101.1 db and the 13TW5 put out 103.2 db. 2 db is significant since it normally takes double the power or double the cone area to increase just 3 db. I measured in the listening position, so not right on top of the speaker. Doesn't sound like a ton I know...but in the vette, it's LOUD. So with doubling power AND cone area, I should be around 109.2 db with both TW5's ripping. That's going to be ridiculous. We're doing another tuning session this weekend to play with sub positioning to find the ideal output positions as down firing is just a hypothesis. It's time to let them eat and figure out the final shape of the box.
OMG. Ran the 2 13TW5's for about 2 hours today after hooking up the 1K XD amp. To say it was loud was an absolute understatement. On the same db meter, in the same position, this combo made 110.2 db (with the hatch open). The gain was only up to about 10%. This thing HAMMERS! Definitely on the right track. Going to get the brakes and suspension taken care of and get the harness bar installed. From there, it's off to the audio shop to get the rear box built and then some more tuning.
Why did you leave the hatch open? Its Supposed to be a measurement of sound "pressure" . At least you know your baseline for what the shop needs to beat.