After much searching and reading, it appears there are plenty of threads on C5 audio upgrades but I couldn't find what I needed to upgrade my C6 GS, so here I go.

I have a 2012 GS CE with Bose sound system.

I am thinking that I will start the upgrade with the Kenwood Excelon DMX906S head unit and the JL Audio C2-350x in the upper door, leaving the Bose door woofer for now. Crutchfield states that the harness will allow me to use the stock amplifier and I plan to use a powered lead for the 3.5" door speaker. This is sort of Stage 1 upgrade.

I will see how that goes and then Focal RSE-165 in the door with a JL Stealthbox in the trunk with an amp if I can’t stand the sound quality & staging. Call this stage 2.

My problem is that the stage 2 upgrade to get bass will cost as much as the head unit so I’d like to see how that “stage 1” upgrade sounds before replacing the stock Bose door woofer and adding a sub box.

Thoughts? Reasonable?

 

Bro...start here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...install-7.html

Learn from my failures.

 

link no worky... found it through your profile, thanks

 

So as you can see...C6 audio is no joke and no easy solutions exist. Can you "put better stuff in?" Yes, absolutely. Will you be happy? Likely not. The minimum I would do is a decent powered 5 channel, well equipped HU, full component set (best you can afford) and a couple subs. Deadening when you can afford it. (This will even improve the sound of the factory garbage because Corvette's are loud cars.) Update after your stuff is broken in and re-adjust as necessary. This will bring you to the "decent" level. If you want "next" level, you need a DSP and tuning ability.

 

Ok, so reading your thread, my proposal for a Kenwood Excelon DMX906S head unit and 3-way speakers in the door comprised of the JL Audio C2-350xwith Focal RSE-165 sound like a well intentionned plan. Adding the sub in the trunk would be sort of a stage 2 plan with a component amp setup stage 3.

Deadening I am still contemplating since that's a lot more intrusive that I currently want to get.

I'm not confident that I can hear the same fidelity and tuning as you clearly do (impressive tuning setup btw).

 

I am curious on the "cheap" Dayton speakers you used; their sound quality is better or comparable to the Focals?

 

You'll need to check the depth of the 3.5" (C2-350X) as there's only about 4" of clearance (when the door card is installed) in the door panel to work with. Adapters to mount the 3.5 will need to be made as well (you can see the wood pieces I made in my thread) and their depth will need to be added to the speaker depth. You'll also have to figure out how to connect the factory wiring to the aftermarket speakers. Those 3.5s aren't too deep though...they should fit no problem. I suppose you're not going to run the Focal tweeter or crossover, and just use the 6.5 in the door? This will also require a speaker adapter as the factory Bose speaker is a 10" shallow driver. Make sure that the adaptors (speakers and wiring) are factored into your budget.

Personally, I think you're wasting your money. Running the Bose amps will not give you the output you're after. Plus, they clip when turned up (varies from car to car) which can damage your brand new gear if you're not careful. There's no adjustability in them, and switching to an aftermarket HU will not provide them any adjustability either. Merely the signal strength going into them.

I still think a good 5 channel is the way to go brother. But I do enjoy being proven wrong as well.

 

My plan was to use the factory amp & 6.5 Bose short term, then re-wire to the HU when I add the Focals in with a tweeter mount similar to you have. Pretty sure the Kenwood HU has basic crossover functionality for 2-way speakers, not sure how its 3-way system works.

EDIT: Reading the manual, the DMX906S has a pretty detailed crossover for both 2 & 3 way setups.

Crutchfield says the JL 3.5's fit the C6 and they send all the adapters I need with the speakers. I was curious why/how you ended up with the Daytona's?

 

The Dayton's were well received by the high-end audio community and were the drivers used in some award winning speaker box builds. They also have some of the sexiest frequency response curves I've seen from a 4" driver. They rival Focal Utopia's ($8,000/ set, about $1500 for just the 3"). For $30 a driver, the RS100-4 is very hard to pass up. (EDIT: Hang on, I'm trying to post pics for you)





Also, The HU X-over settings, while better than nothing, will send that signal to all amps associated with that channel. I need to research that HU a bit more before I can advise much further...

 

Can't find where in your thread that you installed them; they seem too large for the space?

 

Page 4, post #72. 6th and 7th pic down... they JUUUUSSSST fit. The flirt with the VB2 in the door.

 

The JL's look to be about an inch shallower than the Daytons, I will probably stick with the JL's.

 

I just want to make a comment on your stage 1 upgrade. If your plan is to upgrade the head unit and add 3.5" speakers to the doors, you can easily swap the factory 3.5" with the JL's and run them off the factory amp and wiring. You can also buy the wire adapters to make the new speakers plug and play with the factory plug that goes to the stock speaker. Speaker wiring adapter - Metra 72-4568. You can find them on Amazon also.

 

Appreciate that, thank you.

 

I believe the 12 also has tweeters in the corners of the dash. My 13 did. Adding that 2nd tweeter in the door is just going to make it sound brighter, but not better. My stage 1 was replacing the head unit and adding sound deadner to the door inner and outer skins. This made the best stage 1 improvements. Better sound from the head unit and a more solid punch with the deadening material. Stage 2 was a 5 channel amp with all speaker upgrade and subwoofer.

 

Well it’s 65 here today so I’m going to take her out for a rip. Even warmer tomorrow and I won’t have a chance to drive her for a few months so I will check on those extra tweeters. Thanks


Any suggestions on sound deadening? I see lots of options out there, what is reasonable cost and effective?

 

Hard to beat Kollossus (like dynamat, but significantly better) covering 30% covered by MLV covering 100% then a thin layer of CCF as an acoustic break. You can get away with just Kollossus, but it's not nearly as effective on it's own. If you're doing just the doors, CAE VB2 (2HD if you don't care about weight) is very tough to beat performance-wise.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...ossus-edition/
http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/vb_2.htm

 

I've done 3 vehicles with dynamat Xtreme and it's done great every time.

 

Dynamat is significantly lighter than the others...that's a plus.

 

Finally someone that understands speaker drivers