I have a 2013 with the 9 speaker system. I have spent the past few hours reading about the stock C6 audio systems and there is so much info it's overwhelming! There are a lot of things I'm clear as mud on (crossover stuff, matching speakers/subs to amps, pairing speakers with other speakers, etc.)

I am trying to figure out what to do in my car. I want some more bass in my car (not over powering) but definitely want something I can feel. I am also considering upgrading the entire system as well. From what I'm reading the consensus seems to be:

-Replace head unit
-Disconnect center channel speaker in dash
-Remove factory door subs and speakers and use adapter plates (?) to install 6.5" speaker/tweeter component setup
-Replace rear 5.25" speakers with something better
-Use a 4 or 5 channel amp to power component and rear speakers? (unsure what channel amp to get)
-Sound deadening in doors, floors, rear cargo area, etc.
-Couldn't find much info on what to do with the other two speakers on the dash at the base of the a-pillar (since my car has the 9 speaker system)
-Install a sub or two in the rear. I'd love to run the stealthbox but unfortunately I don't have the drop-in storage area in my car so I'm unsure which sub(s) enclosure to use (checked out vettenuts site but I'm unsure if a pair of 8" subs, a single/dual 10" or single/dual 12" would be best)
-Do I need a separate amp for a sub or two or can I get one amp to run everything?

Any help is appreciated!

 

What's your budget?
You can add a powered subwoofer for more bass for a couple a hundred.

$1500 budget for diy, a bit more if you need someone to do the work, will get you a headunit, 3way components in the front, 5channel amp, and a 10inch sub in the back.

 

Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on things. Most here do similar. If you’re not looking for a lot of bottom end a quality shallow 10” should serve you well. For more bass a better 10” makes a nice improvement. I have a 10w3v3 and can certainly feel it when I dial it up. Having the bass control **** in the ashtray area makes it easy to find tune bass on the fly. Quality 6.5” components and 5.25” and a 4 channel is the way I went. Disconnected all the Chevy Bose crap. I have a JL 4 channel amp running the 4 speakers and a separate JL amp on the sub.

 

I'd say 1500-2000 budget.

So completely disable stock Bose amp and 3 speakers in the dash and just use 4 speakers?

-Head unit
-6.5" components in the doors
-5.25 in the rears - should I even run rears?
-10" sub
-5 channel amp (four speakers and one sub)?

That sound about right for a good upgrade over stock? Now to figure out what equipment to get :/ That's where I get lost trying to match everything up.

 

You could get rid of the two corner tweets and run your own there from a good 3 way component set. This all will depend on how good you want it to sound. The center dash speaker makes tuning a nightmare. But it's also the speaker that the door chime and nav voice play through IIRC. I haven't had mine for quite a while now. For amp selection, I'd run the most powerful (or option loaded) 5 channel you're willing to buy. $1500-$2K is stretching a LOT in the C6. Good audio gear isn't cheap, and hell you could spend $1K on a good amp or head unit. Sub boxes are something that you and you alone have to decide on how to proceed. A drop in cubby box is okay, and the 10W3V3 is a decent sub that doesn't require a ton of power. But I you can't run that, then a prefab or custom box will be in order. I can tell you that in most cases, a single 10 isn't going to make you happy. I have a 10W7 in mine, and I still need more. Gah...just talking about the audio system in the C6 makes me see red and want to punch babies. It's so atrocious to have to spend so much additional money on a good sounding system. If you want to discuss, PM me and I'll send you my number. I can talk much faster than I can type.

 

OK so maybe I'll go over budget. This list puts me a shade over $3k.

I'm slowly getting a grip on things but here's a list I put together so far:

Kenwood DDX8706S Head Unit
Pac RP5-GM11 Interface
Metra 95-3304 Dash Kit
Focal Performance 165AS3 - 3 way component setup (use tweeters in stock tweeter location on dash)
Kenwood KFC-1396PS - rear speakers
2x of JL 10w3v3 10" Subs - 2 ohm
Subthump dual 10" partition sub box
JL Audio XD700/5v2 5-channel amp
NakidParts Speaker Mounts
4gauge Amp wiring kit

From what I can tell, the amps, speakers and subs should work ok together. Bridge the subs in parallel right?

Should one dynamat the whole interior or just certain areas like the doors? What are these speaker baffles I keep reading about?

I'm not sure whether to run 2-way or 3-way speakers in the rear locations. Any advice on that?

 

Leave the factory center and rear speakers and run them off the factory amp. Run the 6.5 off two channels, and the mids/tweeters off the other two channels Use the amp cover to set the 6.5" correctly.
The amp is rated at 2 ohms for the subs, so you need 4 ohm subs. Two four ohm subs makes it a 2 ohm load.

 

Ah ok...I'll change the subs to 4 ohm. OK I get what you're saying, but how would I do that wiring wise?

Also, what do you mean "use the amp cover to set the 6.5 correctly"?

 

sorry, typo... should be "amp x-over"
Two channels directly to 6.5" speakers.
Two channels to speaker x-overs, then to mid and tweets.

 

300w on two 10w3v3 is going to under power them. They like juice, I have a JL 600w amp on one.

 

What if I went with the 10w1v3 instead?

 

the 10w1’s power sweet spot is about 200-250w so running two with that Amps power still will still not be feeding them enough. Since you’re not looking for over the top, hear it a block away bass I think you’re better served with one quality sub like the 10w3v3 and giving it the full power from the JL amp you’re considering. Very good sub, clean power makes for nice tight yet powerful, crisp sound that won’t overpower your other speakers yet hit sharp and hard when you want it. That’s my take anyway.

 

Once you change the factory head unit out do you loose that red LED alarm light?
Also do you loose the automatic volumne control on the factory unit so when road noise or any kind of noise gets louder or lower the volumne automatically adjusts?

 

LSWON, I just responded to your question in the other thread in general discussion. Most aftermarket head units have an auto-volume adjust feature. Usually there are a few different levels of auto-adjust to choose from and/or the option to keep it off. I'm not sure about the LED alarm light.

 

I think that LED alarm light is part of the stereo security system.

 

I read some where that the LED security light in the dash is dependent on the settings in the DIC. If you have your car set to auto lock on exit. Not sure exactly, as I don't recall ever seeing it in my car, but I don't have the auto lock enabled either.

 

I dont recall the C6 having a red security light. Where is it located? Each door has it's own light at the top rear but I don't think there is one in the dash.

 

Vince, I'm not sure I agree with you here. Why would you suggest leaving the center speaker in place and connected?

To the OP, imo if you are going aftermarket, you need to disconnect all the factory dash speakers. When I first did my system, I left the dash speakers connected based on the suggestion of an audio shop owner. The problem was, when I turned up the volume the factory dash speakers couldn't keep up with the new aftermarket system and would distort. The factory sound system is junk. No point in keeping or using any of it if you are going with an aftermarket system. As far as door chimes and warning chimes are concerned, they are retained through using the correct wiring harness interface and if you are using the Pac RP5 the chimes do not come through the speaker but a separate chime module included with the PAC.

 

I did not hear any distortion in my setup. Maybe the 11-13 cars came with a different tune due to the dash tweeters. It can easily be disconnected from the top of the dash.

 

That's exactly what the stereo shop told me. Replace head unit only first. Listen to system. Most owners like the sound and don't change the speakers they said......If it doesn't sound good they will replace speakers which can run another $1,000 extra.