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Okay so am still a bit confused on how to disconnect the a noise Canceling. The other post mentions pulling pins 4 and 5 on plug X3 but there isn’t a 4 and 5 pin?Someone also mentioned disconnecting it inside door panels. I couldn’t find any plugs inside door panels.
Also that Acrylic is entirely too brittle to Mount those 10lb subs in the doors. So my next alternative is using some 1/2” mdf for my door subs.
I see your sound coverage on your door (looks anwesome) and will work on that tomorrow as well. I like to do the same thing you did and that’s putting the deadener inside the door adhered to the outside skin.
I forgot how much work this custom install stuff is 👀😎👀
Just like anything else, there are different qualities of ABS. You've must have picked out a low quality one.
The pins are there. Or either you have a 1LT car that someone added the upgraded Amp and sub. The door mic should look like this: And should be located here:
Worked all day making 1/2” mdf adapters for the door subs and panel won fit back on. So am hoping the 16 gauge sheet metal I am working with is the ticket
Just like anything else, there are different qualities of ABS. You've must have picked out a low quality one.
The pins are there. Or either you have a 1LT car that someone added the upgraded Amp and sub. The door mic should look like this: And should be located here:
Not that I want to butt in here since Vince knows what he's doing and has given some excellent advice but I read that you were adding some USB connectors for charging your phone(s). Why not add a wireless charging pad as well "while you're in there" and have everything opened up.
Not that I want to butt in here since Vince knows what he's doing and has given some excellent advice but I read that you were adding some USB connectors for charging your phone(s). Why not add a wireless charging pad as well "while you're in there" and have everything opened up.
I hope he ordered the wireless charging mount that course motorsports offers. I just ordered mine. Expensive, but tired of my other one falling off all of the time.
No I have the regular Coursemounts Mount for my iPhone 11 and that thing sticks like glue.
Fabricated the door sub mounts with 16 gauge “weldable steel.
So doors are complete with new mids and subs
All sound deadening is complete (two 36 sq ft boxes used)
rear sub mounted
rear speakers mounted
HMI modules and console ports changed to USB 3.0 for the Apple CarPlay
Love this thread. Appreciate the details from Vince and the pics and write up from Rbohno. Car audio has come a very long way since I was into this. Some of these components I don't even know what they are. Doubt I'd ever go to this level, but appreciate and enjoy this thread!! Thanks for the documentation.
Here is some examples so far from the PAC Audio harness
wire label (from PAC) as ………………………… actually …………………………………colors
(left front speaker 2) ……………………. Center dash speaker………….. White + , white/black —
(left front tweeter) …………………………Left rear. ……………………..White/red + , white/blue —
(left front speaker)………………………... Left door sub. ………………..White + , white/black —
(right front tweeter)…………………………Right rear ………………………Gray/red + , gray/blue —
The takeaway from this should be PAC Audio builds units for the masses so that’s why the first things they ask you is “did you tone test your speakers to verify the exact speaker location.
My feeling is if it’s made for the masses it should be priced accordingly so for an AmpPro and wiring to cost over $400 my labels should be correct out of the box. If that’s too much trouble then leave the labels off.
