sprocket99999

Does anyone know how to install a 1962 corvette heater core.HELP
ziplock@optonline.net

wmf62

if memory serves me correctly, you have to take the whole heater box assembly out from the inside of the car side of the firewall.

first, drain the cooling system; then remove the heater hoses from the heater nipples. these hoses pass through penetration in the firewall, one connects directly to the heater core and the other connects to the shutoff valve. BEFORE you disconnect the hoses i suggest you completely drain the heater and hoses (and even use air, if you have a compressor, to blow the water out of the heater core out. you might want to disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and intake manifold to blow it out so that you don't get water/antifreeze inside the car). if you don't drain it as completely as possible you WILL spill 'liquid' in the car....

then disconnect the hoses inside the car (i suggest having a BIG absorbent towel in case there is still fluid in the core to catch what may leak.

the disconnect the defroster box and the control cable from the heater box, unbolt the heater box from the firewall; the rest will be obvious..

have fun, it's not a bad job; you just don't want to soak your carpet...
Bill

DZVette

Sprocket,
This is a job I have just completed recently. It is not too bad but does take time and patience. I put some info together during the process. A PDF file is attached. Also attached is a jpg (12 x 30 inches) of the "exploded" parts of the assembly.

Hope this is of use to you.

Dave Zuberer

P.S. You tend to get more help here if you fill out your profile with name, car. etc. Just a suggestion.

1snake

This is something I did this past summer. The reason, low heat out of a previously perfectly working heater. The cause, a hunk of sealer used to seal the front motor mount had broken off and plugged the temp. control valve. Not a big deal. Follow the directions in the ST-12. Takes a couple of hours to complete.

Jim

Tearloch

DZ, the guide is great. Thanks. I have a 62 that has several heater related issues that I am trying to work through.

1. The blower motor is not wired to the controller. I do not even find a wire attached to the motor for this purpose, but I did find a blade terminal that I assume is for the power. Beyond the wire for power, how is the motor grounded? Should it have a second wire for ground, or does it ground through the mounting? If a separate ground wire is used, where does it terminate?

2. The defroster box control does not move. I think the pressboard box got deformed on install, so the flap is bound up. I am thinking of replacing with a metal box (not a car I intend to get judged). Ever use one?

3. The temp control valve also seems to be frozen. The cable does not move when I try to pull the ****. I manually tried to operate the value with no luck. Any advise on getting it to work before I just replace it?

Chuck in CT

SIXTYTWO

It's actually pretty straight forward and easy. I'm down the shore in Toms River and could give you all the information and guidance you need to fix your leaky heater. Rich

DZVette

Chuck
I have tried to answer your questions in the attached PDF file. Hope this info helps. If none of the actuating levers are moving freely, it's probably a good idea to replace the parts before they give you trouble down the road.
Dave Z

SDVette

Thanks for these procedures Dave... I will be doing this project this Fall. My heater is currently bypassed.

Fred

stratplus

Before you install your new heater core and temperature control valve have them both pressure tested at a local radiator shop. You don't want to have to do the job twice.

Although they are new, they could be defective.

This past winter I replaced all of mine. If it hadn't been for a comment Johnz said about pressure testing new equipment, I would not have tested anything.

My new temperature control valve was faulty and leaked due to a bad soldering job.

That test saved me a lot of work and frustration.

Tearloch

Dave, YOU DA MAN! Thanks a ton, you answered all my questions.

My big concern on powering up the blower was the lack of ground. Confirming that no specific ground wire exists eases my concerns. I assume the blower is grounded to chassis by the fasteners, or like you said through the connections to the console controls.

On the defroster box, the cable does have a bit of movement. I actually stuck my face in there and watched while I pulled on the cable from the console. You could see the flap start to move, but then bind up and stop. I plan to get the metal replacement from Dr. Rebuild. Best part is that it is much cheaper than a new cardboard one, go figure!

The control valve pictures and explanation is super helpful. I have a bit more troubleshooting to go through based on your lesson, but I think I can figure out what is wrong. I will "half-split" the system by disconnecting the cable to rule out a stuck cable, and also check to see if the PO forgot to remove the shipping wire-tie on the valve.

As far as the rest of the system, the core it is not "new", but came with the car. I assume that the system is still pressurized from the coolant system regardless of the position of the control valve. That is why I am not concerned with leaks, but if I am wrong on that, please correct me. I am only trying to fix the parts of the system that did not work when I bought the car. The car basically had a frame off resto about 3-5 years ago, but the restorer/PO is no longer with us for me to ask questions about what was done to the car. Overall it has been pretty solid since I bough it 2 years ago, except for a few minor things that were not completed or needed some love.

Thanks again.

AZDoug

Make SURE you install new temp control valve at the same time.

Doug

GTOguy

I just did this whole job on my '61 about 3 months ago. Not a bad job at all, and did install the new expensive control valve. The only issue I had was that the new repro heater core is longer than the original by about 3/8-1/2"....it fits in the case,barely, but you can't use the rubber locating pucks. Once it's in there, though, it is solid.

SDVette

When you say "new expensive control valve", do you mean there is a better one? Or that the standard reproduction is expensive?

GTOguy

There was a rebuild kit and an all new valve, for a lot more $$$. I went with the all new valve, and it was a perfect match with the original, except it doesn't use a heat sensing tube. With my luck, if I rebuilt the original valve, it would have leaked. I've been learning with my particular car that the more previous work I un-do and re-do myself, the better the results. My car was really jury rigged in certain areas. So I've simply stripped out marginal components and have been replacing them with new ones along the way. The car now has its integrity back!