JWLaRue

folks,

Hoping I can get some advice on getting the clutch on my Vette unstuck. It's a 327/300, stock manual 4-speed. In troubleshooting the problem, what I am seeing conforms to what others have indicated is a stuck clutch: with engine running cannot put the transmission into gear. I get that nasty gears clashing sound. With the transmission engaged, foot off the clutch (engine off), the car will not roll.

I tried the many times recommended approach of putting the transmission into 4th gear, clutch pedal depressed, and then 'blip' the starter to try to use the engine to cause the clutch to break free.

No joy.

So, anything else I can try short of finding someone to drop the transmission to fix the problem?

-tnx,

Jeff

409/409

Put the transmission in 1st or reverse and with the clutch pedal depressed crank the engine until it starts. When the car starts it should drive away, but with the clutch pedal depressed there won't be enough pressure to keep it engaged and should release.

Nowhere Man

where ever you do this make sure there is nothing in front or behind your car for a couple hundred feet

Powershift

I think you need to try harder:

Pull the distributor to coil wire to give you more confidence.

1. Trans is 4th gear
2. Clutch pushed in.
3. Emergency brake on
4. Right foot pushing hard on the brake pedal.

Give it a full 3-4 sec crank with the starter. With your foot on the brake hard and coil wire pulled, car will still lunge forward but will not start. It may take a couple of tries. Let starter cool down a few minutes between tries.

The last guy on the forum to try this was a bit skeptical, but was successful after a few tries. About three months or so ago.

If you lived out in the country, you could start the car in gear and work it loose while driving down the country road, but that is simply too risky for most folks.......especially those living in the city.

Larry

MikeM

Just to modify this a little.

I'd start the engine in neutral and let it get warmed up. Shut the engine off, start it in first gear and drive off. Work your way up to second or third third by shifting without the clutch. Get up to a speed where the engine will pull, shove the clutch in and nail the gas pedal. It oughta' pop loose.

Only try this if you're not timid, can walk and chew chewing gum at the same time and you have an open road to use without getting in your way.

Some, I've broken loose on the starter with the transmission in gear, some I've broken loose at low speed in low gear and some required a higher gear, higher speed. I've never failed to break one loose.

On the older Corvettes with the open bottom bellhousing, you can have a helper shove the clutch in and then take a putty knife and drive it between the disc and the flywheel and knock it loose.

The best thing to do is not store the car in a damp environment and you won't have stuck clutch problems.

FLDoug

I live in SW Florida and with the moist climate this is a fairly common problem. The only thing I would add is that I first start the car in neutral and bring everything up to temperature and turn it off. Once the car is at normal operating temperature I first attempt the 4th gear approach just as Larry described. If that doesn't work, I aim the car down the road and start it in 1st or 2nd gear and off I go. With the clutch depressed I keep blipping the throttle and after a few times the clutch frees up. I've never had one not free up with this approach. Good luck. Doug

Powershift

That, or drive it more often.

On the older Corvettes with bottom access to the flywheel, Mike's advice is the way to go.

I also agree with both Mike and Doug, start the car and warm it up first before trying either of the procedures to unstick the clutch. A bit less wear and tear on the engine. However, the OP did state that he had already done that, so I didn't belabor the point.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-tranny.html

Larry

JWLaRue

Thanks, guys, for the additional ideas. The link that Powershift provided is one of the threads that I previously found and guided me to try the in-gear-blip-the-starter routine. However, I didn't 'blip' it for the 3-4 seconds at a time. Sounds like I need to try that more intensive way of doing it.

I did not warm up the engine for what I was trying, but I clearly see the point in doing the warm up for starting in 1st gear and working my up the gears. Where I am located though I have limited 'running room' before coming to a 'T'.

Good question about the open bell housing, MikeM. I honestly need to go look! (I'm still quite new to this)

...and yes, I know I need to drive it more!

-tnx,
Jeff

Nowhere Man

All mid years used the closed bellhousings

JWLaRue

I was able to give it another try at breaking the clutch free. This time I removed the coil wire and cranked it for multiple times for the suggested 4-5 seconds at a time.

No joy.

I'm not comfortable with trying the next suggested idea of starting it in first and the clutch pedal not depressed. Is there anyone in the greater Baltimore-D.C. area that would be willing to help me?

-tnx,
Jeff

a striper

I've had this issue a couple of times over the years. I put the rear on jack stands and start in gear. Usually a few throttle blips with the clutch held in frees it up. On a really stubborn one I brought the wheel speed up while on the clutch and hit the brakes hard. That worked too.

Westlotorn

Should you use the idea above make sure the tires are at least 2 inches off the ground as they will increase in diameter if you rev the engine and you don't want them to touch ground.
Also make very sure the front tires are blocked very well front and back on both sides. The rotational force of the rotating tires can try and rock the car off your Jack Stands.

It would be no problem to start the car in gear with the key and drive it. I have had a clutch linkage break and drove the car home many miles. Turn off the key if needed to stop. Careful shifting/matching RPM's to speed and gear keep you from grinding if a shift is necessary.
Just be very careful and aware of your limitations. Warm the engine up first so it starts and runs well right away. Don't go into traffic.
I bet it would break loose in less than a 1/8 mile of driving. Cluctch depressed, step on the gas then hit the brake. If the first try does not work add more power and harder brakes. It will work as many have mentioned already. I think this is safer than the jack stand technique.

gbvette62

I've had the clutch on my 62 freeze up a couple times, over the years. This is the process I've always used, though I did break an axle once, after hitting the brakes hard.

Powershift

When you energized the starter for 3-5 sec, what did the car do?? If it moved/lurched very much forward (say 3-4 feet per attempt), you may have not have the brakes on hard enough to put the required force needed on the clutch disc to free it. If it didn't move from the initial spot, than the starter should have either stalled or spun and freed up the clutch. Something has to give. When doing all this, did you have the clutch pedal pushed firmly all the way to the floor??

If you try what "a striper" recommends, make sure to support the rear wheels so they don't hang down to low or bind up when trying to rotate. Also make sure the stands are solid and secure so that the engine torque doesn't cause the car to wobble or become unsteady.

Barring these, the remaining thing is to pull the trans and clutch. I guess it's possible that you have a problem with the pressure plate not wanting to release/retract. If this is so, it will require a replacement anyway.

Larry

JWLaRue

Good questions and I definitely appreciate the continued help.

I had both the clutch and brake pedals fully and firmly pushed in all the way. When I energized the starter the car did not move forward. (it was in 4th gear) The car did sort of 'twist' to the side...I assume due to the torque from the starter. The starter stalled. (good description, tnx!)

Putting the rear up on jack stands and blocking the front tires is definitely worth considering.

I'm still not comfortable with putting it into first, starting it, and then driving it until the clutch frees up as I only have 1/4 of a mile before I run into the top of a 'T'. If it hasn't broken free by then....then what?

-tn,
Jeff

Powershift

Put on your turn signals and turn right.

The more you talk, the more convinced I am that there is a problem with the pressure plate. I have never seen a clutch disc so "rusted" or otherwise bonded to the flywheel or pressure plate that it stalled the starter.

Larry

JWLaRue

Let's make sure that what you mean and what I mean by 'stall' is the same thing.....

When I energize the starter, I get an initial cranking for about 1/2 to 1 second but then nothing. The starter motor just stops.

Are we saying the same thing?

-tnx,
Jeff

Powershift

Yes.............in electrical terms they call it a "locked rotor". Full input power is applied to the device (starter) and the output shaft is locked up and does not turn. The term is typically used for electric motors.

Larry

JWLaRue

Thanks, Larry. We're saying the same thing.

-Jeff

JWLaRue

Okay.....good, no great, news. I had a friend over today who is very familiar with these old(er) cars. We pointed the 'vette out the end of the driveway (he was driving) and started her in 1st. It took a pass and a half up and down the short road in my development, but he was able to break the clutch free. It really took quite a few hard stompings on the gas pedal while in 3rd/4th to convince it to free up....but it's now working as it should.

Afterwards, we went out for some top-down driving (me driving). Boy, it sure felt good!

Many thanks to all who have offered up their help and experience. I appreciate it.

-Jeff