Kill switch
I put a kill switch in, the key to success is hidden, so mine is not in the cabin. Will add a dummy switch as it will give a few more seconds of aggravation. Might hook the dummy up to the horn to give them a fright.
I put a device under the hood to lock the steering shaft. Turning the wheels all of the way right or left and this will discourage the tow trucks and trailers if hooking from behind. They will have to hook and lift the front to get an easy load, so must park facing the curb. Kind of a PIA, but good for long stops and overnight stays.

Designing a remote control electrical solenoid to lock the hood release lever. Still in design stage. Stops entry to hot wire the car and find the steering shaft lock. Unless they destroy the hood to get it open.

Also considering some kind of transmission lock or cable around the rear wheel to something. Once again, for overnight stays, etc.

Of course some kind of motion detector. I can't see the $400 or more expense for GPS tracking as I am too old and slow to run after their tow vehicle and won't have a car.

The best defense is an ugly car parked among the beauty queens. Got that covered.





I put a kill switch in, the key to success is hidden, so mine is not in the cabin. Will add a dummy switch as it will give a few more seconds of aggravation. Might hook the dummy up to the horn to give them a fright.
I put a device under the hood to lock the steering shaft. Turning the wheels all of the way right or left and this will discourage the tow trucks and trailers if hooking from behind. They will have to hook and lift the front to get an easy load, so must park facing the curb. Kind of a PIA, but good for long stops and overnight stays.

Designing a remote control electrical solenoid to lock the hood release lever. Still in design stage. Stops entry to hot wire the car and find the steering shaft lock. Unless they destroy the hood to get it open.

Also considering some kind of transmission lock or cable around the rear wheel to something. Once again, for overnight stays, etc.

Of course some kind of motion detector. I can't see the $400 or more expense for GPS tracking as I am too old and slow to run after their tow vehicle and won't have a car.

The best defense is an ugly car parked among the beauty queens. Got that covered.







I put a kill switch in, the key to success is hidden, so mine is not in the cabin. Will add a dummy switch as it will give a few more seconds of aggravation. Might hook the dummy up to the horn to give them a fright.
I put a device under the hood to lock the steering shaft. Turning the wheels all of the way right or left and this will discourage the tow trucks and trailers if hooking from behind. They will have to hook and lift the front to get an easy load, so must park facing the curb. Kind of a PIA, but good for long stops and overnight stays.

Designing a remote control electrical solenoid to lock the hood release lever. Still in design stage. Stops entry to hot wire the car and find the steering shaft lock. Unless they destroy the hood to get it open.

Also considering some kind of transmission lock or cable around the rear wheel to something. Once again, for overnight stays, etc.

Of course some kind of motion detector. I can't see the $400 or more expense for GPS tracking as I am too old and slow to run after their tow vehicle and won't have a car.

The best defense is an ugly car parked among the beauty queens. Got that covered.

I assume you'll be using a normally-closed solenoid that activates with when powered, and wiring it directly to the battery, bypassing your battery cutoff.
You probably wouldn't want to use a normally-open solenoid because if you get a dead battery, you won't be able to get your hood open to change the battery.
Along the same line of thought about keeping the hood from being opened, have you given any thought to disabling the hood release pull handle, maybe a quick release handle or some way to lock the handle in place so it can't be pulled.
Steve
I assume you'll be using a normally-closed solenoid that activates with when powered, and wiring it directly to the battery, bypassing your battery cutoff.
You probably wouldn't want to use a normally-open solenoid because if you get a dead battery, you won't be able to get your hood open to change the battery.
Along the same line of thought about keeping the hood from being opened, have you given any thought to disabling the hood release pull handle, maybe a quick release handle or some way to lock the handle in place so it can't be pulled.
Steve

I am now looking at blocking the lever arm from moving at the attachment point of the cable such that the weak point will be the 10-32 screw retaining the cable clamp. IE, a stick to the firewall. If the screw shears, the lever should remain undamaged.
I can still access the lever from the bottom of the car (with some degree of difficulty) to open the hood. The quick disconnect would work, provided there is nothing protruding to get vice grips on. However, the cable could be cut and pliers used to pull the core to open the hood (paranoid)
However, it might be the best and most convenient answer. I get wrapped up in these little design projects and forget the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). I also do not want to modify the hood latch if possible, prefer a bolt on device. 1 day into the drawings and design, getting close, but the wife is not happy that I am not doing the important things she wants done (like improve the TV reception).

Any help is appreciated. I will share my findings 59BlueSilver. Don't intend to try to sell it.

PS: We had a pickup stolen from the parking lot of the local Pub yesterday in this big city of 300 people. Thieves are everywhere you look.
Last edited by R66; Jun 2, 2017 at 07:09 AM.







I am now looking at blocking the lever arm from moving at the attachment point of the cable such that the weak point will be the 10-32 screw retaining the cable clamp. IE, a stick to the firewall. If the screw shears, the lever should remain undamaged.
I can still access the lever from the bottom of the car (with some degree of difficulty) to open the hood.The quick disconnect would work, provided there is nothing protruding to get vice grips on. However, the cable could be cut and pliers used to pull the core to open the hood (paranoid)
However, it might be the best and most convenient answer. I get wrapped up in these little design projects and forget the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). I also do not want to modify the hood latch if possible, prefer a bolt on device. 1 day into the drawings and design, getting close, but the wife is not happy that I am not doing the important things she wants done (like improve the TV reception).

Any help is appreciated. I will share my findings 59BlueSilver. Don't intend to try to sell it.

PS: We had a pickup stolen from the parking lot of the local Pub yesterday in this big city of 300 people. Thieves are everywhere you look.
I ran a small diameter wire from the hood latch actuating lever to the front of the car. I did this for both hood latches. I attached handles to the ends of the wires and found a spot behind the grill I could reach but that was hidden from view. So, I can reach behind the grill, feel around for the handles, and pull to open the hood. No drilling, no electricity, no mods, easy to remove for car shows, and it's about a 20 minute job. Like I said, I didn't do this for theft protection but if that's what I wanted, I'd remove the factory hood latch release in the cabin and tuck it up under the dash out of view. As a bonus, you will never have to worry about going under the car to release your hood latches.
Steve
Live well,
SJW

I am now looking at blocking the lever arm from moving at the attachment point of the cable such that the weak point will be the 10-32 screw retaining the cable clamp. IE, a stick to the firewall. If the screw shears, the lever should remain undamaged.
I can still access the lever from the bottom of the car (with some degree of difficulty) to open the hood. The quick disconnect would work, provided there is nothing protruding to get vice grips on. However, the cable could be cut and pliers used to pull the core to open the hood (paranoid)
However, it might be the best and most convenient answer. I get wrapped up in these little design projects and forget the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). I also do not want to modify the hood latch if possible, prefer a bolt on device. 1 day into the drawings and design, getting close, but the wife is not happy that I am not doing the important things she wants done (like improve the TV reception).

Any help is appreciated. I will share my findings 59BlueSilver. Don't intend to try to sell it.

PS: We had a pickup stolen from the parking lot of the local Pub yesterday in this big city of 300 people. Thieves are everywhere you look.





