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The bolts is about 1/2” from the tire. Not wild about the setup, I don’t like to deviate from stock this much.
Fortunately I can get a repo spring & bolts and it’s not expensive. The main issue is the wheels, they’re almost new so I wonder if I can trade them for stock size, btw, what is stock size?
Stock aluminum wheels were 15 x 6".
Get your rear suspension back to stock and go to 15 x 6 or 15 x 7 at the largest wheels, with 70 series tires and your vibration likely goes away, unless you have bad U Joints or rear wheel bearings.
I have TT's on my 65, they are 15x7 rear tire size is 235-65-r15, front is 215-60-r15, I fit the largest size I could for a 15 inch wheel, if I wanted a larger rear tire I would have changed to pinched trailing arms, they would give another inch, inch and a half.
It may just be my eyes, but your 1/2shafts seem to be at an extreme angle compared to stock. If this has been running like this for lots of miles, you probably have u-joint issues.
I always said, these old vettes look and ride best at stock heights. If you want to jack up a rear end of a car, buy an old Nova with leafs and go nuts!!
[QUOTE=Bradysdad;1595746075]It may just be my eyes, but your 1/2shafts seem to be at an extreme angle compared to stock. If this has been running like this for lots of miles, you probably have u-joint issues.
I always said, these old vettes look and ride best at stock heights. Or at the very least be level.
I'll just throw this out as food for thought. The pinion angel should match the transmission centerline within one degree, i.e. If the transmission is pointing down 2 degrees the pinion should be pointing up 2 degrees. If they are out it can cause vibrations.
It may just be my eyes, but your 1/2shafts seem to be at an extreme angle compared to stock. If this has been running like this for lots of miles, you probably have u-joint issues.
I always said, these old vettes look and ride best at stock heights. If you want to jack up a rear end of a car, buy an old Nova with leafs and go nuts!!
If a degree or two matters on a driveline then I would think it would matter on the half shafts as well. I don’t like that angle either. Think I’m going to replace the spring (HD) and U joints and get 15 x 7 wheels. See what happens after that.
Got to thinking about what I just wrote. Not home right now, is the rear end attached to the body?
Last edited by 59BlueSilver; Oct 12, 2017 at 07:58 AM.
If a degree or two matters on a driveline then I would think it would matter on the half shafts as well. I don’t like that angle either. Think I’m going to replace the spring (HD) and U joints and get 15 x 7 wheels. See what happens after that.
Got to thinking about what I just wrote. Not home right now, is the rear end attached to the body?
It is bolted to the frame and the frame is bolted to the body. They move as one.
I did see the severe angle on the half shafts. But the ends are still parallel the centerline of the axles and the rear end are the same. That keeps the u joints in phase. That much angle may still cause a vibration. Anything over 5* is tough on the joint. There is a great video on u joint angles on YouTube.
If you don't want to lower the car all the way get some steel conduit and cut 2 pieces for each side 1/2 the length of the spacer that is below the spring now. Put one below and one above the spring. You'll need some heavy washers to keep the conduit from entering the hole in the spring. This will give you some pivot back at the end of the spring the way it is now there is no pivot action to the bolt. It will also help with the half shaft angle.
Last edited by Robert61; Oct 12, 2017 at 09:19 AM.
I did see the severe angle on the half shafts. But the ends are still parallel the centerline of the axles and the rear end are the same. That keeps the u joints in phase. That much angle may still cause a vibration. Anything over 5* is tough on the joint. There is a great video on u joint angles on YouTube.
If you don't want to lower the car all the way get some steel conduit and cut 2 pieces for each side 1/2 the length of the spacer that is below the spring now. Put one below and one above the spring. You'll need some heavy washers to keep the conduit from entering the hole in the spring. This will give you some pivot back at the end of the spring the way it is now there is no pivot action to the bolt. It will also help with the half shaft angle.
Sounds like a good workaround until I can get everything back to stock. Do you think the body will still clear the tire (ref. Post 15, pic 5)?
Disadvantages, they break. The rear one on my C4 broke about 3 weeks before the warranty went out. The dealer said they weren't going to fix it because I bought it that way. I didn't and asked what difference that would make as it was still under warranty. After a well placed letter they called me back and fixed it. And at the time there were so many broken they were on national back order.