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Disadvantages, they break. The rear one on my C4 broke about 3 weeks before the warranty went out. The dealer said they weren't going to fix it because I bought it that way. I didn't and asked what difference that would make as it was still under warranty. After a well placed letter they called me back and fixed it. And at the time there were so many broken they were on national back order.
So, um, let's review: They sold you a vehicle with a defect they knew about and failed to disclose? Judge Judy would have a field day with that one.
In addressing my vibration problem by replacing U joints, I’m having a problem in ordering the ones for the half shafts. Some places list them as “rear axle shaft- left inner, rear axle shaft- right inner, etc. And some stores just list one part # for all. What gives?
All four U Joints are the same. I see your confusion as I went to the Rock Auto site. 4 different locations, same part number.
Thanks so much for clearing that up. Yes, Rockauto was the one that confused me. I like their prices and they usually ship fast BUT you better know exactly what you’re ordering because they offer ZERO technical help. Not even a phone # to call.
As some of you know, I’ve only had this car a couple of months and I finally got the engine to run decent, but now I’ve got a rather bad vibration in the rear. You can really feel it under moderate to hard acceleration. Cruising down the highway at 65 you’re just barely aware of it.
Anybody got any ideas of what it could be?
If you find out its in the rear like mine was i would suggest dont use a LKERS rebuild most of the suppliers drop ship direct frpm them
When it comes to Ujoints I prefer the Spicer/Dana ujoints. If you go to a Driveline repair shop they will normally tell you Spicer is the number one choice.
Neapco or Federal-Mogul are used when Spicer is not available.
I used to rebuild my own but finally determined it was worth their expertise to have them professionally installed and have the shaft balanced. Consistent results that way.
When I did them myself they worked most of the time. For $100 I like them to work all the time. Tell them what rear gear you run so they know how fast the shaft will be spinning most the time.
A 4.11 will spin much faster at 70 MPH than a 3.08 rear gear.
When it comes to Ujoints I prefer the Spicer/Dana ujoints. If you go to a Driveline repair shop they will normally tell you Spicer is the number one choice.
Neapco or Federal-Mogul are used when Spicer is not available.
I used to rebuild my own but finally determined it was worth their expertise to have them professionally installed and have the shaft balanced. Consistent results that way.
When I did them myself they worked most of the time. For $100 I like them to work all the time. Tell them what rear gear you run so they know how fast the shaft will be spinning most the time.
A 4.11 will spin much faster at 70 MPH than a 3.08 rear gear.
First order of business is to replace the half shaft joints. They look like they haven’t been replaced in a long time. I like Federal Mogul or Moog and have them on order. If that doesn’t do it, then driveshaft balanced with new joints. I need to replace the rear spring but need to sell all my wheels & tires first and get narrower wheels. This will be a winter project.
Removed and checked both halfshafts, U joints are like new so reinstalled them. The more I think about this, the more I don’t like that rear spring. Seems to me it puts those halfshafts at a bad angle, as most of you commented.
My question is, besides that JR spring, how do you get the body high enough to clear the wider tires and not have to adjust the body to frame bolts? Am I overthinking this?
Last edited by 59BlueSilver; Oct 27, 2017 at 08:39 AM.
The spring isn't the problem. The spacers being on the bottom are the problem. If you change the spring but leave the spacers where they are the half shafts will still be at the wrong angle.
The spring isn't the problem. The spacers being on the bottom are the problem. If you change the spring but leave the spacers where they are the half shafts will still be at the wrong angle.
I think that spring is too stiff anyway so I’m going to change to a new HD one and set the bolts and spacers stock.
I don't think its the spring as well, set the bolts and spacers to their stock position, do you have a set of spare wheels with tires that you can bolt on to the rear. I really think your vibration revolves around the ride height mixed with the oversize rear wheels and tires, its a cheap and quick test to see if the rear wheels are the problem.
I don't think its the spring as well, set the bolts and spacers to their stock position, do you have a set of spare wheels with tires that you can bolt on to the rear. I really think your vibration revolves around the ride height mixed with the oversize rear wheels and tires, its a cheap and quick test to see if the rear wheels are the problem.
Well, I could take two wheels off the 59. They’ll fit, right?
the bolt pattern is the same but the backspacing might be to shallow to allow the caliper to clear. do you know anyone nearby with a set of rally wheels that would let you try them on for the test?
the bolt pattern is the same but the backspacing might be to shallow to allow the caliper to clear. do you know anyone nearby with a set of rally wheels that would let you try them on for the test?
Got a friend that’s got two 67. Those should work.