getting depressed
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From: Bornem
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From: Fresno California
ok heres the latest , i took off the splash pans , wired open the exhaust flapper on the passenger side header, took the fuel filter off the intake manifold and swung it around so it was in front of the oil filler tube not touching anything hot , adjusted the fuel line from frame to fuel pump cause it had a little flatness to it , took her for a good run came back , no start fuel filter just as hot as before , waited ten minutes and it fired right off . Its hot and humid here and im as hot as the engine so its time to visit my old pal jim beam and his pal amstel , tomorrow is another day. Thanks for all the help
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From: cape cod MA
Again: you need to do what I posted in post 45. Spray some fuel down the carb and see if it starts. If not, check for spark. You have to determine if it's one or the other. Moving the fuel filter around and checking its temperature is getting you nowhere fast. You either have fuel in the carb or you don't. Check and see.
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From: Greenville, Indiana
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From: cape cod MA
I look at it this way mike , it didnt cost me anything but a littel time on my end , if some of the easy fixes worked and problem solved , id be way ahead of the game , it just so happens they didnt work so now ill dig a little deeper and hopefully find the issue and cause
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Well, this is the way I look at it. It takes about 15 seconds with a test light to see if your whiz bang ignition module is working and another ten seconds to see if fuel supply is the problem.
But you can go ahead and replace your parts at random and as you wish and maybe you'll stumble on to something. Maybe my way is a little different?
But you can go ahead and replace your parts at random and as you wish and maybe you'll stumble on to something. Maybe my way is a little different?
Last edited by MikeM; Aug 19, 2018 at 09:49 AM.
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From: cape cod MA
Well, this is the way I look at it. It takes about 15 seconds with a test light to see if your whiz bang ignition module is working and another ten seconds to see if fuel supply is the problem.
But you can go ahead and replace your parts at random and as you wish and maybe you'll stumble on to something. Maybe my way is a little different?
But you can go ahead and replace your parts at random and as you wish and maybe you'll stumble on to something. Maybe my way is a little different?
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From: cape cod MA
Is this the module you have installed in your stock distributor?
https://static.summitracing.com/glob..._gm_61001M.pdf
If so, your choice of coil and use of a ballast resistor or not is critical. If this is the module, please read the directions posted and ensure you either use the ballast resistor with a stock coil or one of the listed coils without a ballast resistor. This could be your problem and if improper components were used, overtime you could have damaged the Mallory module.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob..._gm_61001M.pdf
If so, your choice of coil and use of a ballast resistor or not is critical. If this is the module, please read the directions posted and ensure you either use the ballast resistor with a stock coil or one of the listed coils without a ballast resistor. This could be your problem and if improper components were used, overtime you could have damaged the Mallory module.
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Never tried it on a Mallory but that test works for points and other electronic gizmos I've done it on.
Post #45 was good advice for a shortcut to find out what you need to work on..
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From: cape cod MA
Put a test light on the minus side of the coil, ground it and spin the engine. Your light should flash brightly, on/off/on/off. If it doesn't, your gadget is likely not working.
Never tried it on a Mallory but that test works for points and other electronic gizmos I've done it on.
Post #45 was good advice for a shortcut to find out what you need to work on..
Never tried it on a Mallory but that test works for points and other electronic gizmos I've done it on.
Post #45 was good advice for a shortcut to find out what you need to work on..
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From: NJ
I fixed it by wrapping the fuel line with a simple rubber hose...
they stopped making that engine one year later but still offered the base 4 bbl carb engine. mine had the dual snorkel air cleaner which must have kept the heat inside and over the fuel line enough for them to bail on the design inside that cramped engine compartment.
good luck with the fix.. you'll get it. .
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From: Greenville, Indiana
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From: cape cod MA
I think he was talkin about the post above from frankie the fink .about taking heat readings
Last edited by number3; Aug 19, 2018 at 02:36 PM.
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From: cape cod MA
Figures today its as cool as it could get here and i cant get it to not restart !!!, i hope tomorrow itll be a little warmer so i can make it happen . Been in the 80's and 90;s for a month today feels like 60 here !
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From: cape cod MA
Okay , i got it out for a ride struggled to get up to 180 degrees , got about 20 miles and it started to break down pulled into wally mart shut it off wont start , temp readings on exhaust manifolds 535 , fuel bowls 133 fuel filter 140 after we stopped gave it some gas no start , checked for spark zero, im thinking that my module is shot and my timing is off . chime in with your opinions please , thanks to all !
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From: The Golden Triangle, Florida
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Okay , i got it out for a ride struggled to get up to 180 degrees , got about 20 miles and it started to break down pulled into wally mart shut it off wont start , temp readings on exhaust manifolds 535 , fuel bowls 133 fuel filter 140 after we stopped gave it some gas no start , checked for spark zero, im thinking that my module is shot and my timing is off . chime in with your opinions please , thanks to all !
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29371/10002/-1
Steve
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From: cape cod MA
I mentioned this earlier but wasn't sure what your problem was. If it IS your module (and it sounds likely) and you replace the module with another Mallory, add this circuit guard. It's a simple plug-n-play. I've had my Mallory Unilite with this protector for 6 years and, so far, no problems.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29371/10002/-1
Steve
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29371/10002/-1
Steve
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From: Cottonwood AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Okay , i got it out for a ride struggled to get up to 180 degrees , got about 20 miles and it started to break down pulled into wally mart shut it off wont start , temp readings on exhaust manifolds 535 , fuel bowls 133 fuel filter 140 after we stopped gave it some gas no start , checked for spark zero, im thinking that my module is shot and my timing is off . chime in with your opinions please , thanks to all !
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Now we’re getting somewhere!
Is this the stock distributor with a Mallory module installed? If so, use the shop manual to remove the mechanical advance. If memory serves, you have to remove the distributor, but don’t go by my feeble memory, use the manual.
Okay, you need to determine the required ignition configuration for this module! It may have failed due to improper components as you said the ballast had been in and out. They don’t fail immediately if the components are incorrect, but over time as the higher than required current heats it up. Then it fails when it gets hot before finally dying for good. You need the correct coil and ballast resistor. Better yet, pick a coil that works with this module without the need for ballast and clean up your engine bay a bit. Good luck!
Is this the stock distributor with a Mallory module installed? If so, use the shop manual to remove the mechanical advance. If memory serves, you have to remove the distributor, but don’t go by my feeble memory, use the manual.
Okay, you need to determine the required ignition configuration for this module! It may have failed due to improper components as you said the ballast had been in and out. They don’t fail immediately if the components are incorrect, but over time as the higher than required current heats it up. Then it fails when it gets hot before finally dying for good. You need the correct coil and ballast resistor. Better yet, pick a coil that works with this module without the need for ballast and clean up your engine bay a bit. Good luck!