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Power window regulator and motor

Old 12-05-2018, 06:17 PM
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Darryl Dodd
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Default Power window regulator and motor

i installed a power window conversion kit on a 64. In the kit the motors are pre mounted on the regulators. Now im jjust replacing the regulators and motors. The motors need to be installed on the regulators. Does some one no the procedure to put tension on the spring and hold it so the motor can be mounted. Does anyone have pics or a link to a video would be even better!
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:06 AM
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Your post is a bit confusing. I have installed Nu-Relic regulators and motors in my ‘63 and there is no spring to worry about. Check your wording above and maybe adjust it to be more clear what you are looking for. What brand of kit are you installing?
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:55 PM
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My post is fine. Everything I'm talking about is factory original stuff. Obviously it's reproduction but fit and function are as original. Many Corvette venders sell the power window conversion kits and they probably get them from the same source. I don't know where that would be. They also sell the parts individually. Regulators, motors, tension springs, etc. The spring for my original manual regulators is the same for the power regulators. Anyway, point at hand was correctly mounting the motors to regulators. The parts tech. at the vendor didn't know and recommend I take it to my local corvette restoration shop. Which I did. Took a while but they figured it out. Problem solved!

ive never heard of Nu-Relic. I'm glad it worked for you but I'll stick with the original design Corvette stuff.
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Old 12-07-2018, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Darryl Dodd View Post
My post is fine. Everything I'm talking about is factory original stuff. Obviously it's reproduction but fit and function are as original. Many Corvette venders sell the power window conversion kits and they probably get them from the same source. I don't know where that would be. They also sell the parts individually. Regulators, motors, tension springs, etc. The spring for my original manual regulators is the same for the power regulators. Anyway, point at hand was correctly mounting the motors to regulators. The parts tech. at the vendor didn't know and recommend I take it to my local corvette restoration shop. Which I did. Took a while but they figured it out. Problem solved!

ive never heard of Nu-Relic. I'm glad it worked for you but I'll stick with the original design Corvette stuff.
no problem.....but you need to get out a bit...there are other choices that at times are better....or worse....
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:11 PM
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Hi Darryl,
I am aware of some instructions that are in the factory service / repair book. You may want to find one. I have not taken on this task myself but I do know that working on these windows is difficult, Making the electrical connection is not easy. Maybe you already have found the factory service instructions that suggest drilling additional holes in the door interior ti get access to the attachments. I will look for my copy and post it tomorrow.
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:32 PM
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I don't post pics enough to remember how to do it but in the GM shop manual page 1B-21 you'll see Fig. 45. It shows using a bolt to put through the mount bracket and regulator gear to hold tension while you install the motor. Unfortunately the reproduction regulators I got ( wont mention the corvette vender ) didn't have any holes in the gear. It's not hard to do with two people. From what I learned in the last few days the spring is tensioned in the lowering process and then AIDS the motor in the rising process. Another issue with these regulators is the white rollers. They were too wide and wouldn't fit in the tracks. I spent all day sanding them until they would fit. The conversion kit I got had better regulators and used the more powerful round motors. They were too fast and too powerful and wouldn't stop when they met resistance. When the window hit all the way up or down the motor kept turning and chewed up the teeth on the regulator gear. I'm not sure what the life of the motors are. They are difficult to change if you've never done it. Now that I've done it it's not too bad. You do need to remove everything from the door to change the motors.

Last edited by Darryl Dodd; 12-08-2018 at 09:38 PM. Reason: added more text
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Darryl Dodd View Post
I don't post pics enough to remember how to do it but in the GM shop manual page 1B-21 you'll see Fig. 45. It shows using a bolt to put through the mount bracket and regulator gear to hold tension while you install the motor. Unfortunately the reproduction regulators I got ( wont mention the corvette vender ) didn't have any holes in the gear. It's not hard to do with two people. From what I learned in the last few days the spring is tensioned in the lowering process and then AIDS the motor in the rising process. Another issue with these regulators is the white rollers. They were too wide and wouldn't fit in the tracks. I spent all day sanding them until they would fit. The conversion kit I got had better regulators and used the more powerful round motors. They were too fast and too powerful and wouldn't stop when they met resistance. When the window hit all the way up or down the motor kept turning and chewed up the teeth on the regulator gear. I'm not sure what the life of the motors are. They are difficult to change if you've never done it. Now that I've done it it's not too bad. You do need to remove everything from the door to change the motors.

What did you do to stop the motor from chewing up the teeth on the regulator gear?
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvetteMikeB View Post
What did you do to stop the motor from chewing up the teeth on the regulator gear?
when the motors meet resistance ( full up or full down) the amps increase in the motor from the extra resistance and that shuts off the motor. In the closed (up) position the resistance would be when it hits the stops. The only thing I did was to change the motors from the larger, stronger round motors to the correct rectangle design motors. The round motors were ether too fast to react, too strong to sense increased resistance or just failed internal to work properly. There are no limit switches!
One important note about this process is that the vent window assembly has to be removed before the side window can be removed.

Last edited by Darryl Dodd; 12-09-2018 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 12-09-2018, 09:22 PM
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I hope you take the time and read the shop manual as posted by Darryl Dodd. Removing the motor with following the procedures can cause serious injury. The spring has a lot of tension on it. After removing the motor it can be sent out for repair. Anyone that rebuild headlight motors can rebuilt power window motors.
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:01 PM
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I have attached several PDF files that might be of use in this discussion.
One includes the pages from the 1963 Shop Manual describing removal of the power window regulator which calls out the caution about installing the bolt through the regulator plate and the hole in the sector gear (see Fig. 50 pg 1-24).

The other two files are based on work I had to do to get the driver door window out when it quit in its full downward position and some info about replacing the brushes in the motor. In my case the motor had completely lost one of the brushes.

Hope this helps someone contemplating pulling the motors, etc.

Dave Z
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Darryl Dodd View Post


when the motors meet resistance ( full up or full down) the amps increase in the motor from the extra resistance and that shuts off the motor. In the closed (up) position the resistance would be when it hits the stops. The only thing I did was to change the motors from the larger, stronger round motors to the correct rectangle design motors. The round motors were ether too fast to react, too strong to sense increased resistance or just failed internal to work properly. There are no limit switches!
One important note about this process is that the vent window assembly has to be removed before the side window can be removed.
I just had two of the round motors fail in my 67 restomod, Perfect timing since it is going to auction next month. They odd thing is mine were super slow. They last set of reproduction cardone units I purchased from summit racing were extremely fast, but I had no issues with them.

Also! make sure your gears are on facing the correct way on the reproduction regulators. My passenger side had the gear backwards and I had to cut it off and then weld it back in place.
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:32 PM
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Update on mine: the motors are fine and after looking at the regulators again, the units from American auto city do have the holes. The ones I purchased off of eBay for the split window do not and have a lot of slop in the tracks where they mount to the spring and gear.
Also, these motors appear to be factory speed when hooked up to a proper switch. My billet specialties switch appears to be the bad component in my situation.
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