i installed a power window conversion kit on a 64. In the kit the motors are pre mounted on the regulators. Now im jjust replacing the regulators and motors. The motors need to be installed on the regulators. Does some one no the procedure to put tension on the spring and hold it so the motor can be mounted. Does anyone have pics or a link to a video would be even better!

Your post is a bit confusing. I have installed Nu-Relic regulators and motors in my ‘63 and there is no spring to worry about. Check your wording above and maybe adjust it to be more clear what you are looking for. What brand of kit are you installing?

My post is fine. Everything I'm talking about is factory original stuff. Obviously it's reproduction but fit and function are as original. Many Corvette venders sell the power window conversion kits and they probably get them from the same source. I don't know where that would be. They also sell the parts individually. Regulators, motors, tension springs, etc. The spring for my original manual regulators is the same for the power regulators. Anyway, point at hand was correctly mounting the motors to regulators. The parts tech. at the vendor didn't know and recommend I take it to my local corvette restoration shop. Which I did. Took a while but they figured it out. Problem solved!

ive never heard of Nu-Relic. I'm glad it worked for you but I'll stick with the original design Corvette stuff.

I don't post pics enough to remember how to do it but in the GM shop manual page 1B-21 you'll see Fig. 45. It shows using a bolt to put through the mount bracket and regulator gear to hold tension while you install the motor. Unfortunately the reproduction regulators I got ( wont mention the corvette vender ) didn't have any holes in the gear. It's not hard to do with two people. From what I learned in the last few days the spring is tensioned in the lowering process and then AIDS the motor in the rising process. Another issue with these regulators is the white rollers. They were too wide and wouldn't fit in the tracks. I spent all day sanding them until they would fit. The conversion kit I got had better regulators and used the more powerful round motors. They were too fast and too powerful and wouldn't stop when they met resistance. When the window hit all the way up or down the motor kept turning and chewed up the teeth on the regulator gear. I'm not sure what the life of the motors are. They are difficult to change if you've never done it. Now that I've done it it's not too bad. You do need to remove everything from the door to change the motors.

when the motors meet resistance ( full up or full down) the amps increase in the motor from the extra resistance and that shuts off the motor. In the closed (up) position the resistance would be when it hits the stops. The only thing I did was to change the motors from the larger, stronger round motors to the correct rectangle design motors. The round motors were ether too fast to react, too strong to sense increased resistance or just failed internal to work properly. There are no limit switches!
One important note about this process is that the vent window assembly has to be removed before the side window can be removed.

I hope you take the time and read the shop manual as posted by Darryl Dodd. Removing the motor with following the procedures can cause serious injury. The spring has a lot of tension on it. After removing the motor it can be sent out for repair. Anyone that rebuild headlight motors can rebuilt power window motors.

Update on mine: the motors are fine and after looking at the regulators again, the units from American auto city do have the holes. The ones I purchased off of eBay for the split window do not and have a lot of slop in the tracks where they mount to the spring and gear.
Also, these motors appear to be factory speed when hooked up to a proper switch. My billet specialties switch appears to be the bad component in my situation.