[C2] Bubba was here
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 438
Likes: 185
From: Auburn Wa
Bubba was here
I'm rebuilding the rear of my 66, trailing arms, U-joints and differential and found this. Done before 1979 when I bought the car. How much could this part have cost then?
Last edited by I'll C2 it; Dec 9, 2019 at 04:00 PM.
Popular Reply
Dec 9, 2019, 05:25 PM
Team Owner
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: OP Kansas
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
That repair lasted for 40 years, why buy new if you can fix it properly? I bet it will last another 40 if you leave it alone.
Last edited by KC John; Dec 9, 2019 at 04:48 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Greenville, Indiana
In the back woods of Washington state, it might have cost a bundle if you had to drive 100 miles to get a replacement in a hurry and it wasn't even available.
If you put it back together and the joint doesn't bind, you should be good to go.
I'm sure other opinions will vary.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 438
Likes: 185
From: Auburn Wa
OK, times were different back then. You did whatever would got you back on the road. That's where Bubba comes in...
i think it will become an old school "wall hanger"
i think it will become an old school "wall hanger"
Last edited by I'll C2 it; Dec 9, 2019 at 05:35 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Richmond VA
In the day, when I had only one vehicle, and lived 15 miles from the nearest part store, I made similar repairs. It you do the job right, why take it apart to put a new one in later. In 1979 when that repair was done, no one was worried about originality. Today, a lot of frames get welded. putting on a new frame would be costly in frame cost and time. If it works and is safe, I say go for it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Fresno California
Not really Bubba, IMO. More of a workman-like repair done when the car was only a decade old or so. I agree that it should be good to go for the next 40 years. The only crime committed here is ugliness.....he didn't grind the weld down so it looked better. Looks to be plenty strong, and if the last 40 years are any evidence, it is.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: San Ramon Ca
Sorry, but looking at the close-up picture, it looks like there's a set of new cracks starting from the OD and the ID as well in the weld material. It could be that whatever issue broke the part the first time is going at it again. I can almost convince myself I see the cracking the farther out shot ... I'd look real carefully at the weld before I put that part back in my car! Better to replace this part than your virgin fiberglass, LOL ...
John A, 67L88Vette
John A, 67L88Vette
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From: Central Arkansas
Those outer half-shaft flanges have always looked like a weak link to me although bending during u-joint changes seems to be a bigger problem than breaks. I suspect someone makes a nice billet upgrade for someone with serious HP and tires.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: San Ramon Ca
So it is likely recracking then, and I wouldn't use that part ... I'd also check to make sure the the trailing arm side of this flanges mating surface is flat, as it could be the part is cracking from being drawn down on a bent surface ... Something caused the part to fail in the first place, and now it looks like it's doing the same to the weld ... If not corrected, you may have the same failure again with another part ...
John A, 67L88Vette
John A, 67L88Vette
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St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
Yup, that one has had the banana, but it sure does not owe you anything. 40++ years is nothing to complain about. And fortunate you discovered it this way instead or on the road! 
Team Owner
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Army
so it is likely recracking then, and i wouldn't use that part ... I'd also check to make sure the the trailing arm side of this flanges mating surface is flat, as it could be the part is cracking from being drawn down on a bent surface ... Something caused the part to fail in the first place, and now it looks like it's doing the same to the weld ... If not corrected, you may have the same failure again with another part ...
John a, 67l88vette
John a, 67l88vette
Team Owner
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Since it cracked again, I'd replace it. I'll stick with my theory that flange was bent/broken trying to get a Ujoint in/out. Then, it had to be flattened out close to get the ujoint in but not flat enough to stand the stress when the four bolts were tightened and it cracked immediately on installation. The ran for forty years.
The saving grace is the two mating flanges have a ridge where one runs inside the other and it can't spread open.
The saving grace is the two mating flanges have a ridge where one runs inside the other and it can't spread open.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Maine
How true
Jack
Team Owner
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From: Rochester NY
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
And I might add that we didn't have the Internet to look up the right way to do something, or to compare various options. Much of what I learned was either by trial and error, or by being told a way by someone who may or may not have known what he was talking about. Yes, I had a Chilton's manual, and the Thomas book about C-1's, but still nowhere near the wealth of knowledge and experience available today.