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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 10:33 PM
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Default hot interior compartment

hey everyone my feet get very hot on the floor boards any one have any ideas to this its almost to the point were it gets almost to hot to drive
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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LOL, welcome to the world of C3's
Do a search in here, there are a LOT of threads on this.
Some fixes:
If your car does not have a hot water cutoff valve, install one, it goes on the heater hose coming from the intake manifold, install it close to the firewall
Wrap the exhaust from the manifold back past the cockpit
Install good sound/thermal insulation under the carpet
Make sure all the firewall holes are closed up
make sure the vent duct doors seal
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Default Greetings from Burlington, WI

Originally Posted by jrl1973vette
hey everyone my feet get very hot on the floor boards any one have any ideas to this its almost to the point were it gets almost to hot to drive
My heater was dumping hot air on my feet until I disconnected the heater hoses. Granted it is still warm but at least it isnt roasting all my little piggies any more.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jrl1973vette
hey everyone my feet get very hot on the floor boards any one have any ideas to this its almost to the point were it gets almost to hot to drive
I had the same problem with my 75. When I first purchased the car the problem was not there. After many miles in all types of weather I too was experiencing your problem. Here's how I fixed mine. There is an insulation blanket that mounts above the transmission and it is attached to the bottom of the body. The old one had rotted out and was almost gone. The next thing that was missing was a foam collar that mounts in back of the distibutor right where the engine mates to the transmission. The purpose of the foam is to block hot engine air from entering the transmission tunnel area. The are also foam blocks that mount between the body and the frame in the area of the shark gills. The last thing I did was to insulate under the carpet. I think if you do these things you will find it worthwhile.
Good Luck
Stedve
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 01:25 AM
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Agree with Steve..and...take a strong light at night and put it inside your cabin..open hood,and check for light shining thru firewall...fix any grommets/openings...

Rich
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 04:12 PM
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It's called "Fish Feet." C3s are well known for being warm inside, Astro-Ventilation not withstanding.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
It's called "Fish Feet." C3s are well known for being warm inside, Astro-Ventilation not withstanding.
Astro-Smashtro. From the sound of Astro-Ventilation it should be some space age super cool system. I could roast a pig down by my feet! Who designed that system?
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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Astro Jetson?
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:27 PM
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Default Hot feet

Stedve,

Thanks for the advice, I was about to lower my body back down and was not going to bother with all the heat shields. This forum saved me a lot of problems by the sound of it

Thanks Gents from down under

TonyS
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony S
Stedve,

Thanks for the advice, I was about to lower my body back down and was not going to bother with all the heat shields. This forum saved me a lot of problems by the sound of it

Thanks Gents from down under

TonyS
Hey Tony;

You DEFINATELY want all the insulation you can get onder there. If you have that much apart you may want to think about a layer of Nuprene glued to the bottom, good stuff, a thin version of wetsuit material
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 10:27 PM
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I had this problem on my 77. To find the problem, I realized the weathre stripping right in front of the windshield wiper area wasn't being contacted by the hood when it was down. To test my theory that this was where the problem was coming from, I laid a towel all the way across that area and closed the hood. No more heat in the floorboard. So I got to looking at my hood latches, and realized that there were several spacers under them. My hood didn't close that great, so I took out a couple of the spacers. Guess what? Now the hood lines up better and there is no more heat at all in the cockpit.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony S
Stedve,

Thanks for the advice, I was about to lower my body back down and was not going to bother with all the heat shields. This forum saved me a lot of problems by the sound of it

Thanks Gents from down under

TonyS
To mount the tunnel heat sheild you may need new mounting clips. Dr Rebuild should have what you need.
Good Luck
Steve
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Hey Tony;

You DEFINATELY want all the insulation you can get onder there. If you have that much apart you may want to think about a layer of Nuprene glued to the bottom, good stuff, a thin version of wetsuit material
Thanks Six footer, will have a close look now at what I need to do and try and buy something local. Freight from the USA is a killer
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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Default Insulation and Vent Flap Seal Repair

I just installed the Reflectix insulation under my carpeting (firewall surface back to rear compartment). I'm sure that alone did me a lot of good. BUT....while I was at it, I checked all the dash ducting and found that the seal on the main inlet duct (right front kickpanel) was totally shot! And being "cheap", I removed it and re-sealed it myself.
I live in Phoenix and in the summer, my car has never been comfortable inside...even with the A/C on high. Well, between the duct flap rebuild and the insulation, the cabin is now cool when it's 110 outside! Happy days for one C3 owner!
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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Is it actually trade named 'Reflectix' insulation ?
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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I believe so. I've discarded the label, but it is the 5/16" thick foil backed roll insulation stuff you can get at Home Depot in the building materials area. For $20 you get a roll 4 feet wide by 25 feet long; it would do the complete car, if you wanted to do the storage area also. I made sure that the tranny tunnel and as much of the interior firewall that I could reach was covered. It has made a world of difference in the interior temp. But, as I mentioned above, the damper door was leaking engine heat also.
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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Reflective barrier insulation !!! Fantastic stuff. Cheap and light. Reflectix is one brand, there are others. I used it for the ceiling in my work shop, Now it's warmer in the winter and much cooler in the summer. I WILL put it under the carpet in my Vettes (as soon as I get a chance). It also dampens noise.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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I had the same problem on my '78, but I can say it is cured!!!!! Upon suggestion here in the forum I went over to Menard's and bought a 24" roll of foil faced insulation, I don't remember the name (maybe Reflectix), but it comes in a box in varying widths. It is foil faced on both sides with kind of a bubble wrap type stuff in the middle. When replacing my carpet I put it in in place of the jute, both front and back. I did it up the side of the trans tunnel. I taped all seams with aluminum tape. This stuff molds wonderfully to most all curves. Where my floors and trans tunnel were always hot, I now feel no heat at all. It was noticable enough that my girlfriend commented on how much cooler it was. My AC was out and it was still comfortable in the car with no noticeable heat coming from any floor surface. Another added benefit was some sound deadening.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:48 PM
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Isnt there a shut off valve already (stock) in the heater hose coming off the intake manifold? Or is this only activated / closed when the air is on?
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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Is the shut-off valve also a fix for hot air coming through the air vents?
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