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1968 Corvette Convertible

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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:16 PM
  #21  
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I really have no interest in the car just would like to see him get a fair price. I was going to attempt to get it to run and see if I could free the sticking caliper. I have a lift in my shop and plan on putting it up in the air and taking a look at the bottom side. I believe that it is completly rust free as it has been parked indoors since at least 1977 and may have been since new. I will snap a few pictures when I have it in the air on the lift. Is the vin number stamped on the trans and engines on these cars? Where would I find them it could very well be a matching numbers car.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:26 PM
  #22  
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Here is the stamping on the trans.



The stamping on the engine will be in front of the passenger side head on a pad such as.......

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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:28 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DZRick
Here are 2 #'s I found on the site concerning the resto package.

1-800-222-1020

905-440-7689
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:36 PM
  #24  
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Here's a better shot as it is off a vette motor and off to the right you can see part of the build stamping.

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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:42 PM
  #25  
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DZRick, thanks I will look for the numbers and see if we have an original drivetrain.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 08:15 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by DZRick
Unless GM finally found all those records we've all been waiting for all these years for, that resto package isn't going to have anything specific to your vin.
yes, i browsed through it last night. it does give you a complete break down of the vin and other #s and from there you can determine what you should have. it also came with a pack of info with companies, by state, addresses/phone#s to contact for resto parts/service and books to buy. a lot of useful info! FOR FREE!!!
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 09:50 AM
  #27  
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With the numbers you have it appears the car has its original drivetrain. The vin is duplicated in both the engine pad and the transmission. Now complete engine trans swaps have taken place so the car should be vin 24366! The engine should be VxxxHT if its a 350hp car. The transmission is a Muncie assembled on June 20 1968 and only a look at the input shaft will tell weather M21 or M20. The car appears to be a leather interior car, but I may be wrong. The body trim tag was tough to see. The trim tag should be an "K 25" car if 24366 is the vin that works as June 25. The shifter panel is a 1969 part and the workings of the console seem missing. On the plus side the paint appears pretty original and that means a probable good body. A sunfire yellow 68 327/350 is a good car to have and a solid main numbers match a good find. $10,000 seems about right. The intake, distributor, ect are non original, and the engine compt and other areas should get a detailed cleaning. There should be plenty of money to take out if you can cosmeticly do the car and turn it.

Last edited by international blue; Dec 1, 2006 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 11:26 AM
  #28  
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DZ Rick,
You are correct.
The resto package includes only generic information for the specific model year NOT specific information for a SPECIFIC vehicle (VIN).
Kurt
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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Incorrect steering wheel and center console plate for a 68, as well as incorrect hood for a 1968 L79 smallblock.
I think the engine pictures that were shown with the stamped numbers on the engine pad are not from the yellow convertible scatpk is researching but from a sample that dzrick sent for instructional purposes so scatpk would know what to look for. I don't think they are the stamped numbers from the engine in the yellow 68 convertible.

I do wish I had that speed warning speedometer for my 68 that is shown in the yellow convertible. They are hard to come by.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 11:59 AM
  #30  
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HERES MINE

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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:30 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ksbunting
I think the engine pictures that were shown with the stamped numbers on the engine pad are not from the yellow convertible scatpk is researching but from a sample that dzrick sent for instructional purposes so scatpk would know what to look for.

Kurt
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You sir are correct, the motor and trans pictured came out of this vette.

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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #32  
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Is that for sale?
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 02:57 PM
  #33  
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Only with the drivetrain. I can't see seperating a numbers matching car.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 03:28 PM
  #34  
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Nice find, but lots of work ahead...at least the gas gage looks to be accurate
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 08:08 PM
  #35  
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DZRick,if international blue doesn't get it then i want dibbs!That almost makes this 69 vert i picked up last weekend look like a show car!!!!AND....a drive train?!!!!!! WOW!!!!
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 10:29 PM
  #36  
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If anyone took my above reply that i was shooting at DZRick....it wasn't ment that way.Actually,i was being quite serious.I just bought a JUNK,very incomplete 69 vert,BUT it does have a good frame,good steel,a good title,and a rear deck included.Am serious interested in the vert,and the drive train!Peace to all!!!!!
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 01:59 AM
  #37  
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Old Dec 2, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 427SIXPACK
TACH REDLINES:

1968

327/300 @ 5300
327/350 @ 6000
427/390 @ 5600
427/400 @ 5600
427/435 @ 6500
What was the rpm redline for the L88? I think it
was stated as 427/430 @ ???? rpm.
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 01:03 AM
  #39  
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Same tach as the 435 car. The L88 was expected to be raced, so they knew anyone buying one would tear down the motor and rebuild it anyway before running the car. I dont think the BBC ever liked super high RPM's anyway. The L88 was rated at 5200 rpm, low on the power side so 430hp was considered "correct". GM ran the car at 560@6400 with the factory sidepipe headers, not the showroom sidepipes on the 69', and considered 7200 rpm the limit for the engine (yikes!). This is well past peak torque anyway...so I don't know why that number was important. When mine goes to the dyno I will give you the story on an open chamber "Late 88".
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 02:54 AM
  #40  
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Well I found the tank sticker and it is a 327/350hp car. I fished it out from the fuel filler neck and only got a piece of it but see that it is a 350 car with positraction and leather interior, also looks like it came with a hardtop. I tried to start it but the accelerator pump is shot in the carb so I will have to replace it to get it running. I am going to tell the owner to spring for some tune up parts and let me go thru it and see how it runs dialed in. I told him a car that runs and drives is worth more than one that does not! I need to remove the rear wheel and free the sticking caliper or parking brake, not sure how these cars are setup? I looked in hemmings and see that brakes are reasonable. I found an ad for 4 rebuilt calipers, master and complete set of rubber brake lines for $332.00 with exchange, seems like a deal to me. I am going to suggest he buy the parts and let me get this thing roadworthy and then sell it. I am thinking if it runs and drives should be worth 8-10 thousand. From what I can see I have not put it in the air yet, it is rust free and is pretty complete and would be a nice driver. Again very cool website and I will let you guys know if it is numbers matching and take some pictures of the underside.
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