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Here is a link to two shots of the 8" sub boxes in work for the kid's '76.
You can get the basic idea of what is involved with laying in the glass and then creating a framework for stretching the polyester cloth to form your box, lay on some more glass and finish with "bondo".
Here is a link to two shots of the 8" sub boxes in work for the kid's '76.
You can get the basic idea of what is involved with laying in the glass and then creating a framework for stretching the polyester cloth to form your box, lay on some more glass and finish with "bondo".
First I layered the wheel well and surrounding area with an aluminum foil covered insulation used for heater ducts that I found at Home depot before laying down the layers of resin soaked fiberglass mat. You could just used massive layers of tape and/or heavy duty aluminum foil but I chose the insulation material to add some height to the area to allow for the carpeting, and the foam insulation conformed to the rough textured areas on the body for a smoother backside finish. Once the resin dries, pry out the rough mold, trim to desired shape and glass in your shaped end pieces and add some more layers of fiberglass. Then you glue up your skeleton to hold the speaker ring. We are still playing with the angles for the speaker for these boxes.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; May 21, 2007 at 03:53 PM.
Here is how I did my single 10". It doesn't look that "custom" but I can get the window tray down, the t-tops in and still open the glove box. Plus I can easily pull it out if I want by pulling two wires out.
I put the t-tops in the vinyl bags and stack them on top of the amp, longways. They fit and BARELY touch the back of the seat with it almost all the way back.
I thought about getting another box just like mine but shorter, then it would tuck up in there even more but its a sealed poly box and the air space is correct for my sub so..... I probably won't change anything.
Here is how I did my single 10". It doesn't look that "custom" but I can get the window tray down, the t-tops in and still open the glove box. Plus I can easily pull it out if I want by pulling two wires out.
I put the t-tops in the vinyl bags and stack them on top of the amp, longways. They fit and BARELY touch the back of the seat with it almost all the way back.
I thought about getting another box just like mine but shorter, then it would tuck up in there even more but its a sealed poly box and the air space is correct for my sub so..... I probably won't change anything.
I like that! What are the dimensions or the part number of that box? I am looking to replace my 8" Bazooka tube with a bigger sub.
I am not sure of the part numbers. Its a "Probox". Its just a box the local stereo shop sells. Its not ported but....it sounds really good. Actually I keep most of the bass, the low and even the sub volume all down pretty low because it can really over bass in my car. I talked to another local shop about building me a box similar to this one but about 6-8" shorter so I could push it further back and turn it sideways and they wouldn't even touch it. Two different shops told me it would cost much more to build the box and it wouldn't sound as good as the probox. I can actually turn the box sideways next to the amp with the sub facing up and forwards, it looks really good that way but the tops won't fit and it blocks the courtesy light so I usually leave it long ways like in the pic. These vettes don't have room for $hit, I know that.
Here is another pic of it to give you an idea of the length:
Ajrothm - Have you thought about shortening that box yourself? If not, I would offer my services to you, and I would shorten it to your needs. I also have a few tricks up my sleeve if the interior air space falls below the rated space needed by that sub.
I am not sure of the part numbers. Its a "Probox". Its just a box the local stereo shop sells. Its not ported but....it sounds really good. Actually I keep most of the bass, the low and even the sub volume all down pretty low because it can really over bass in my car. I talked to another local shop about building me a box similar to this one but about 6-8" shorter so I could push it further back and turn it sideways and they wouldn't even touch it. Two different shops told me it would cost much more to build the box and it wouldn't sound as good as the probox. I can actually turn the box sideways next to the amp with the sub facing up and forwards, it looks really good that way but the tops won't fit and it blocks the courtesy light so I usually leave it long ways like in the pic. These vettes don't have room for $hit, I know that.
You are right about there being no room, especially in the early C3's! I need to be able to lower the rear window tray and store the t-tops without removing the sub box. My current 8" Bazooka does a good job, but I want some more bass, which is why I am thinking about going with a 10" sub. I have been looking at the newest design shallow 10" and 12" subs, some of them are only 3" deep and only require 0.5 cu ft or less of box space. You can always cheat a little by building a slightly smaller than recommended box and stuffing it will poly-fill, which is supposed to add about 10% of virtual air space, but I have never heard one that sounded as good as the proper sized box. Here is a pic of a Pioneer shallow 12" sub:
7T2Vette, I looked at those pancake subs and read some pretty decent stuff about them. One thing negative I read was something about the voice coils and travel. I read about 50/50 mix on them so I went with a traditional sub. I almost went with a kicker solobaric, they use less air space. The shop that did my install recommended the Focals and the JL Audios. I went with the Focal. It hits REALLY hard, too hard really for the type of music I listen to. I am hoping if I get a smaller box, it still hits almost as good. I know it will soften some but... I really need the space. I can't stand having that long box coming across my battery door.
Here is what I am thinking about doing:
You can always cheat a little by building a slightly smaller than recommended box and stuffing it will poly-fill, which is supposed to add about 10% of virtual air space, but I have never heard one that sounded as good as the proper sized box. Here is a pic of a Pioneer shallow 12" sub:
I've used the poly fill trick several times with good results. It's the application that's important. It has to be layed properly in the box to be effective.
Also, as mentioned above, the problem with the pancake subs is the xmax value, or the coils linear travel. It's just not enough to produce good low frequencies.
7T2Vette, I looked at those pancake subs and read some pretty decent stuff about them. One thing negative I read was something about the voice coils and travel. I read about 50/50 mix on them so I went with a traditional sub. I almost went with a kicker solobaric, they use less air space. The shop that did my install recommended the Focals and the JL Audios. I went with the Focal. It hits REALLY hard, too hard really for the type of music I listen to. I am hoping if I get a smaller box, it still hits almost as good. I know it will soften some but... I really need the space. I can't stand having that long box coming across my battery door.
Here is what I am thinking about doing:
Here is an idea, why not just make another box the size you want and then fill it with poly-fill, and if it doesn't sound good to you, at least then you still have the original box to fall back on. It is a pretty simple design, and it shouldn't take too much time to cut up and assemble it out of 3/4" MDF.
Here is an idea, why not just make another box the size you want and then fill it with poly-fill, and if it doesn't sound good to you, at least then you still have the original box to fall back on. It is a pretty simple design, and it shouldn't take too much time to cut up and assemble it out of 3/4" MDF.
Actually, I am shipping my box off to Durango boy for mods. I really want a black carpetted box so he is gonna cut mine down, seal it and carpet it.
I can always buy another one like mine local if this one doesn't produce sound but I think it will be fine for what I need.
I'm planning on turning the jack storage area into an enclosure for a JL 8W7. I can't take up any of the rear area, since I need space for the soft top to fold down into.
I'm planning on turning the jack storage area into an enclosure for a JL 8W7. I can't take up any of the rear area, since I need space for the soft top to fold down into.
I like these the best! I want to put a pair of 8's in my '80. This box will be perfect. Do you have plans for this speaker box?
You won't want to aim your subs out like that. They're most effective when facing a surface like the rear bulkhead or the glass above. Facing them forward like that is killing most of the low frequencies.
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