Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette

Another month of weekends gone this thing is finally starting to look like something that will be finished someday. Spent most of the time working on the engine, cleaning and detailing. Ordering brake lines this week so I can run the new fuel line parallel to the brake line on the driver's side.



Rick B.

Originally Posted by 10gears

Looking good is that corvette motor or camaro.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

Looking great and coming right along. Gonna be sweet.

You do know the engine is not stock right? I could be wrong but it looks like heads (and underdrive pulley) have been installed. Note the ARP head studs (and of course the Meziere must have been installed for some reason like to keep cooling at max with the underdrive pulley if that's what I think it is, and the catch-can/oil separator, and external fuel pressure gauge line)! The heads have at least been off before as GM never installed the ARP's on an LS1. If you don't know the cam specs you may want to pop the rear cover and get the make/serial number off the cam and see if you can get the specs. Will help for tuning if in fact it has been changed. Of if you are good with a dial-indicator and degree wheel you can figure it out.

Also, you probably know you can loose the evap purge and fat PCV hoses to clean things up a bit. If you ever need a hand with anything, just shout.

Joe..

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

ps: Saw your earlier post on the shifter. For my 81 which was an auto, I had to offet the shifter about 1.5" at 45 degree angle. McLeod makes offset shifters. I decided to do my own and a buddy welded it up for me.

Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette

Joe,

I knew that the engine had been worked on when I bought it - the guy I bought it from didn't build it but he claimed he did a 11.7 quarter mile with slicks so it may be pretty healthy. The rockers look stock but the heads may have been ported. Good tip about the cam. He didn't know what cam was in the motor and I didn't know how to figure that out. Hopefully there are some marks on the cam. The trans has to come back out anyway since I don't have a clutch yet. I didn't know that was an underdrive pulley either.

When I saw the ARP studs and saw how much the Meziere pump sells for I figured the guy wasn't totally BS-ing me. I'm hoping the motor runs good when I fire it up but so far everything I've seen looks OK. Valvetrain is very clean and plugs all look the same.

I would like to get rid of the evap purge (is that the black valve connected to the TB?). Can that just be removed and capped off?

I'm not sure what to do about the oil seperator. It's plumbed into the PCV line, and since I've never seen one on an engine before I'm not sure what the advantages are of having one. If it's useful I'll find a better way to mount it.



Rick B.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

Rick,

The evap purge can just be removed. You can program out any codes it might otherwise generate in the PCM. If you are using the factory harness you cap off the wiring. Most aftermaketer harnesses due not have provision for it.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

The oil separate is not a bad thing to have. LS engines are known to pull oil through the PCV system and then back into the intake. Soem more than others. The separator keeps that oil from going back int he engine and fouling up plugs. You can shorten it a lot and there are mush nicer ones (and colored) that have a one bolt mount to the front of hte passenger head and go inline between the valve cover and behind the throttle body. When you are close to it I wouldbe happy to help you with plumbing and wiring. Phone call would be easier. Feel free to call me anytime after noon. (845-542-8930).

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

If the car is turnig 11.7 1/4 then it's pushing probably around 425-450hp which means is most like has had a cam and/or heads. My guess would be yes. Many manufacturers have their name and a serial number on the back side of a cam engraved in it. Lets say it's a comp cam, you could call them and give them the info and they should be able to provide you a cam card for it. If you do pull the rear cover off, mark is left to right so it is re-centers over the end of the crank. You can reuse the rear gasket but would be better to replace. Put two tabs of RTV in each bottom corren where it meets the oil pan and that's all you need.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

As far as the clutch goes do you have a link or pic of the McLeod M/C? Is it a flat mount or offset mount like the Camaros. If offset, see the thread SuprJames has going on the clutch setup.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

ps: The SRIII chassis I used also required the F-Body pan and I am using an 02 T56. Basically the same setups I just blinged it a bit. You'll enjoy the ride!

Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette

Joe,

Lots of good info here. I'll probably copy a lot of this stuff over to the sticky thread so that it will help others also. I definitely want to get rid of the purge valve. I need to neaten up the stock harness anyway so i can remove the plug and wires.

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It would be great to break the sticky into Parts, Links and Howto's. Would be a lot of work for someone (and "borrow" some from LS1TECH.COM) but would be very helpful.
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Do you retain the PCV valve and run a smaller diameter hose along the driver side and beneath the throttle body to the seperator? It sounds like if there is a sperator there isn't a need for that check valve if that's what it is.

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Yes, that's all you need. Some 3/8" with a couple elbows and a "T" and you are done. You could alternately just use valve cover breathers but that costs a few bucks to change.
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I'm planning on using the LS7 clutch so I'll be removing the flywheel.

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If you have not already purchased the clutch, you may want to consider some cost effective alternatives. You won't have any problems with it, but there are options. If you bump the motor up further in HP or your are a spirited driver it may not be the optimum choice.
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I don't have a pic of the clutch M/C but it came from the 2001 Camaro that the trans came from. I didn't know SuperJames had a thread going on clutches. I'll look it up.

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If it looks like this, mounting it took a little machine work as can be seen by the block below. I also had a reinforcement plate on the interior side but it was maybe a little overkill. You'll see more in SJ'f threads.


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One more question - where did you get that straight water pump fitting seen in the pic? My son ordered one from Summit that was supposed to be for a LS1 but when he brought it over on Saturday it didn't fit.

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Scooter (who did his before man of us and did an incredible job) mentioned CSR's and I've seen their stuff, good stuff. Street & Performance also has some good stuff also on the expensive side though) at www.hotrodlane.cc. For the heater lines you can just get a 90degree -10 and -12 swivel (only one needs to swivel to install them but two would be better) from any speed shop that sells fittings such as "Earl's".
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Originally Posted by Scooter70

Looking good Rick. It's really coming along.

You can get a straight water neck from CSR. The cool thing is that it uses an SBC thermostat so you can choose your temp. http://www.csr-performance.com/csr_cooling.html Part #911LS1.


For the motor mount plate that I used, I had to go rearward with the shifter to fit through the stock console plate whereas Joe had to go forward.

Originally Posted by Road-Race Vette

You make us Boston guys proud!!!!!!! Awesome.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

I think I did a bad job of inserting into the above. Hope you can read it.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

With regard to the Messiere:

It use the stock LS1 nexk, but the nexk only. It does not use the theremostat. You actually have to cut the tabs off of it that hold the thermostat in place or use an LS2 style housing whihc does not have the thermostat mounted in it. Email me your raddress and I'll send you an extra housing I have that should work.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

Also with the mezziere:

A: Make sure you wire in a relay. They did not come with one but should be used. They draw quite a bit of current. Will save from blowing some other circuit later when it's hard to get at. Also, if you haven't, read this on the install. Although already mounted, it will help.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=26

B: The thermostat for the Messiere is in the top nexk right below the throttle body. This is opposite of an LS1/2/6/7. PIck up a 160 thermostat if not already in there and make sure there is a tiny hole drilled in it to allow venting. It will make "burping" the engine cooling system a snap instead of a pain. Ths is also in the article but they make a 3/16" hole. I would just use a very small drill.

If you look in the top neck, you will probably already see that it is there. This neck unscrews on top. May need a monkey wrench or something to help it along.

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

As far as the clutch goes, even if you have to spend an extra $200 or so on a Centerforce or Ram setup (The Textralia would be the way to go but they are twice as expensive) I would go with the Centerforce or Ram).

Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA

The M/C install perhaps Scooter can describe what he did. I hae only used the Camaro style offset M/C but like in the post, had my brother do some machine work. SJ is looking at other approached also.

Joe..

Originally Posted by Scooter70

Jeff, Buddy, and I used a flat metal plate that bolts behind the brake master cylinder and extends down to hold the clutch master. There's a drawing somewhere... probably on LS1Tech... in the Sticky.

-Matt