It's alive
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
It's alive
Woohoo, my engine is running again. After the custom built mallory distributor gave us some issues we temporarily used a MSD mag trigger distributor and some ugly accel hei wires to get the engine running.
The erson gear drive is pretty loud, it's very audible even with uncapped side pipe headers.
Best of all, no leaks anywhere except for a leaking (new) oil cooler
A quickly rigged up 12 an union solved that temporarily.
Marck posted the vid here:
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showth...=6384#post6384
The erson gear drive is pretty loud, it's very audible even with uncapped side pipe headers.
Best of all, no leaks anywhere except for a leaking (new) oil cooler
A quickly rigged up 12 an union solved that temporarily.Marck posted the vid here:
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showth...=6384#post6384
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: Oak Ridge NC
Woohoo, my engine is running again. After the custom built mallory distributor gave us some issues we temporarily used a MSD mag trigger distributor and some ugly accel hei wires to get the engine running.
The erson gear drive is pretty loud, it's very audible even with uncapped side pipe headers.
Best of all, no leaks anywhere except for a leaking (new) oil cooler A quickly rigged up 12 an union solved that temporarily.
Marck posted the vid here:
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showth...=6384#post6384
The erson gear drive is pretty loud, it's very audible even with uncapped side pipe headers.
Best of all, no leaks anywhere except for a leaking (new) oil cooler
A quickly rigged up 12 an union solved that temporarily.Marck posted the vid here:
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showth...=6384#post6384
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
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it's been a lot of hard work, going from this:
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
That really does look and sound great. Question: Any plans to fab up a custom throttle return spring bracket? I'd be worried the interference of the other bracket would cause abnormal wear and possibly a break. Also, just an idea, but I think it's better on the shaft if the spring is pulled behind the carb instead of in front of it. Good work.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
That really does look and sound great. Question: Any plans to fab up a custom throttle return spring bracket? I'd be worried the interference of the other bracket would cause abnormal wear and possibly a break. Also, just an idea, but I think it's better on the shaft if the spring is pulled behind the carb instead of in front of it. Good work.
The spring just rides a little on the hose, it's no big deal. Eventually I'll go with a longer stand. It's not hittinf the CSI throttle bracket at all.
What difference does it make on which side the spring is located? It's supposed to go on the front like that, if you use the same hole and mount the spring to the rear it's actually pulling the throttle open.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I just seem to remember Lars, or maybe Jim, discussing the wear on the throttle blade shaft, and how it's worn faster when the spring is stretched forward. Eventually, the wear creates a gap between the shaft and the carb body bringing on a vacuum leak.
Seems if the spring is stretched behind the carb, this minimizes the wear.
To do that, the spring can affix to the same shaft as the kick down cable, and stretch to your same spring bracket but behind the carb instead of in front of it.
The shaft in my carb is very loose in the housing, probably because the previous owner had the spring stretching to the front.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
I don't see how it would make a lot of difference, both attachment points have the same leverage arm and both springs are angled roughly in the same way, albeit opposed.
Also, with the spring going backwards the spring and the cables are all pulling on the same side, forcing the throttle shaft backwards. With it set up like mine, the spring pulls it forwards and the cables backwards. if there was a setup that would equalize, it would be that.
Also, with the spring going backwards the spring and the cables are all pulling on the same side, forcing the throttle shaft backwards. With it set up like mine, the spring pulls it forwards and the cables backwards. if there was a setup that would equalize, it would be that.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,379
Likes: 6,390
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Lars
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You can attach the spring in one of two ways: You can attach it to the top of the throttle lever and have it pull forward, or you can attach it to the bottom of the lever and have it pull back. Most factory setups use the latter. However, when both the spring and the throttle cable are exerting force on the throttle shaft in the same direction (back), you tend to wear the throttle shaft bushing from this constant rearward pull on the lever and shaft. If you're not concerned about a correct stock setup, you can install the spring on the top pulling forward, and this force offsets, somewhat, the rearward pull of the cable. This reduces wear on the throttle shaft bushing. Also, if your throttle shaft already has some wear and the carb does not return to a constant idle speed, you can do the top-forward spring mounting to solve the problem without installing a shaft bushing.
Lars
Lars
Okay, thanks Lars. I stand corrected. I remembered someone saying the stock method of spring back was the best on the shaft wear.