1972 T-top Gap
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Wichita Kansas
1972 T-top Gap
Can I Get A Idea Of The Gap Between The T-tops? .250-1.000? Also; How People Have Silicone Around The T-top Roof Areas To Prevent Leaks? My Body Shop Put A 3-4 Inch Strip At The Back Of The S/s Trim; To Try And Stop Leaks? Is This A Common Practice Or Are They Taking The Easy Way Out? Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Westminster Maryland
The AIM specifies .12" +- .06" between the 2 roof panels and .18" +- .06" between the back of the roof panel and the halo. The dimension should remain constant along the length of the panel. The roof panel and the halo should be flush +- .03".
GM used black 'dumdum' in some strange places to stop leaks.
Regards,
Alan
GM used black 'dumdum' in some strange places to stop leaks.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 66
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From: Wichita Kansas
Alan--are you saying that there should be 1/8'' gap between the two panels and 3/16" gap along the back? I'm not even close! right now I'm probably 3/4" gap on panels and maybe 1/4" along back. The back is close; but the panels are not even close..Do you think with the new w/s that after time the gap might get closer? thanks steve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
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From: Peekskill NY
Alan--are you saying that there should be 1/8'' gap between the two panels and 3/16" gap along the back? I'm not even close! right now I'm probably 3/4" gap on panels and maybe 1/4" along back. The back is close; but the panels are not even close..Do you think with the new w/s that after time the gap might get closer? thanks steve
Remove the tops. First you need to unscrew the screws on each side of the head liners and gently pry off with a flat head screw driver or butter knife. If the velcro type mounts pull off, epoxy them back in their original positions. Next loosen all mount points, ie: front guide pins, center spades, and the metal wedge plates on the body, but don't remove. Put the tops back on the car. Now you can adjust the position of the tops with everything loose. Once you're happy with the position, get inside and start snugging down the bolts on the center spades. You'll need needle nose pliers to snug down the front guide pins, not much room there when on the car. Tighten the wedge plate on the body also. Remove the tops and tighten everything down.
This may cause the window seal at the top to have a gap now that the tops have been moved in, away from the windows. If that happens then you'll need to pull the door panels off to adjust the angle the windows so they seal against the weather strip, though this might not be necessary. Just a heads up.
Good luck, Glenn
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
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From: Peekskill NY
Mine will leak like most, and need new weather stripping, but I never drive it in rain, or wash and rinse it with a hose.
Glenn
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 382
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From: Uxbridge Ontario
1/2 down the center, 1/16 along the back. No leaks. I installed a complete weather strip package last year after the car was stripped and painted. The hard thing is aligning the roof locating wedge so that the panel fits the line of the back bow. That alignment really determines the space between the panels. If you play with the panels be prepared to re-align the window glass.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Westminster Maryland
Steve,
Those dimensions were the goal in the factory. When my 71 Coupe was new, I kept a LARGE towel in the car for my wife to put on her lap when it rained. BUT the gaps were great!!!! She wasn't amused.
Regards,
Alan
PS: My car hasn't been in the rain in 35 years. The gaps are good....I don't know if it leaks. I guess that means its not a real car any more.
Those dimensions were the goal in the factory. When my 71 Coupe was new, I kept a LARGE towel in the car for my wife to put on her lap when it rained. BUT the gaps were great!!!! She wasn't amused.
Regards,
Alan
PS: My car hasn't been in the rain in 35 years. The gaps are good....I don't know if it leaks. I guess that means its not a real car any more.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,140
Likes: 7
From: Ohio
I think the wide gap in the center between the Ttops gets wider with new weatherstrip and it never gets better. I adjusted every thing and a 1/2 to 5/8 inch was the best I could do. I have seen cars with original weatherstrip and the gap is much closer.
If someone is replacing orignal with repo weatherstrip maybe they could take before and after measurements.
If someone is replacing orignal with repo weatherstrip maybe they could take before and after measurements.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
Likes: 7
From: Peekskill NY
I think the wide gap in the center between the Ttops gets wider with new weatherstrip and it never gets better. I adjusted every thing and a 1/2 to 5/8 inch was the best I could do. I have seen cars with original weatherstrip and the gap is much closer.
If someone is replacing orignal with repo weatherstrip maybe they could take before and after measurements.
If someone is replacing orignal with repo weatherstrip maybe they could take before and after measurements.
Glenn
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,140
Likes: 7
From: Ohio
With the added pressure of new uncompressed WS, they keep the center spades from being able to slide into the center bar lock housings enough. You may need to add a few shims, 4 max per spade, according to the chassis repair manual, which will enable the spades to go further into the center bar lock housings.
Glenn
Glenn
I will add shims and hope that helps.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
Likes: 7
From: Peekskill NY
Glenn
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,140
Likes: 7
From: Ohio
I did this frame off in 1993 before the internet was big. People today ask a question and get an answer that will fix a problem in an hour. In 93-95 I spent many hours moving the Ttops around but never seen the light. I bought verts after that as they are worth more and cost the same to restore.
Thanks
Lyle
Thanks
Lyle
Last edited by LYLE; May 9, 2008 at 09:01 AM.