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Replace yours with a new genuine OEM part. This is not the right place to try to save a buck. Better to spend a little more and be safe than sorry. The rebuild kits are junk.
That is not a piece you want replace with some 'gypo' part. If the rag joint fails, you can't steer. Also, I don't see how you can 'rebuild' it without a new fiber 'washer'....and I've never seen one advertised.
That is not a piece you want replace with some 'gypo' part. If the rag joint fails, you can't steer. Also, I don't see how you can 'rebuild' it without a new fiber 'washer'....and I've never seen one advertised.
You can get 'em in the 'Help' section, but they don't have the needed metal screens in them for grounding the horn i hear.
The 'wear' portion of the rag joint is the fiber washer that is the flex-type link between the steering drive shaft and the input shaft to the steering gear box. If that washer is not deteriorated and doesn't display any 'give' when you load the steering wheel to the right and left {with the engine OFF, of course}, then the joint still has integrity. If you see the washer fraying or disintegrating, or visibly flexing when you load it, the part probably needs to be replaced. A more definitive test would probably be something destructive, like seeing how much strength it had left in it...and none of us have the equipment to do that kind of test.
Just went out and checked mine and it is in several pieces. Is this an easy item to replace and is there any special tools or instructions I need to be aware of?
The following address will take you to a paper that I guarantee will provide you with everything you ever want to know about flexible steering shaft coupling assemblies. There is an index on the first page that will direct you to the page(s) that are what you are looking for. However, you might consider reading the whole paper because it will provide most of the how's and why's concerning the flex coupling.
The following address will take you to a paper that I guarantee will provide you with everything you ever want to know about flexible steering shaft coupling assemblies. There is an index on the first page that will direct you to the page(s) that are what you are looking for. However, you might consider reading the whole paper because it will provide most of the how's and why's concerning the flex coupling.
Here it is: http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/. Click on the Corvette steering papers and look for the article "Flexible Coupling, Everything You Ever Wanted to Know".
Where do you find the complete rag joint for a 68 with power steering?
Looks like another 68 only item, the catalogs have them for 67-down and 69-up.
When I replaced mine a few years ago I didn't have any trouble finding a GM (new) rag joint for aa 68. But you are right, it is I think 1 year only. The hole in the middle is a circle, while in later years the hole is a semi-circle. Looks like the GM list price is up to $99 for a rag joint. I think I paid $55 or so.. lemme find the old thread.
ok.. looks like I replaced mine exactly 3 years ago. Several not very helpful old threads, but here is the useful info for 1968 owners!!! (courtesy of Rowdy Rat) ====>>>>>>
What is the coupling at the end of the steering column called, the part that the rag joint sits in between? I have some slack in it also where it is cut out for the studs on the rag joint to fit, is this normal?
What is the coupling at the end of the steering column called, the part that the rag joint sits in between? I have some slack in it also where it is cut out for the studs on the rag joint to fit, is this normal?
The flexible coupling flange attaches to the input shaft on the steering gear. The stop pins that extend rearward (toward the driver) should be located central in the slots that are part of the detachable flange that is attached to the lower steering column shaft. The stop pins should be central and not touching any part of the detachable flange.
Here is the address for the flexible steering shaft coupling paper.
So once the rag joint is replaced, the cut outs on the detachable flange should not come in contact with the stop pins on the rag joint. Do I have this correct? The ears of the flange comes in contact with the stop pins now and this should not happen?