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Is that good enough to say it's an original numbers matching car?
Depends on your definition of 'numbers matching'. If you mean 'this is the original engine installed in this car by the factory' you've got a long way to go yet.
Well, assuming that the numbers on the block and tranny match the VIN, then yes, it is numbers matching by some people's definition. Be aware though that that doesn't necessarily mean it is the original engine due to the proliferation of re-stamped blocks.
IMO, it would also have to have a correctly stamped and date coded rear end before I would call it a "numbers matching drivetrain", but not everyone feels this way. Others would not consider the car truly numbers matching unless the part numbers and date codes on dozens of other parts were correct, like distrib, heads, intake, carb, alternator etc.
How much is it worth? Is it coupe or convertible? What are the other options? Paint condition? Rust on frame or birdcage? More information would be required before I would want to put out a number.
Paint is excellent
Chassis underneath looks like brand new.
It has the original AM/FM
Power steering
Tilt steering
Power windows
Power Brakes
Power windows
So check the rear end code too..
What and where would I look for it on the car?
Is it like coded with two letters like a PQ or something?
I don't know if this means anything but
**The tach has the orange line start at 5000rpm and the redline start at 5250 or 5300rpm
Last edited by Augustus; Nov 25, 2008 at 03:23 PM.
I am not an expert on rear end codes, so I think you would be better served searching here.
Edited to add this from a recent post by 427SIXPACK: Rear End...Date code Cast in drivers side of housing for the case of '63-'79. In straight axle '53 to '62 Corvettes, the identifier is stamped on the front right side. In the IRS, the assembly date is stamped in identifier on the bottom flange. Gear ratio Stamped in bottom flange as part of identifier as a letter code, such as AW.
Last edited by Derrick Reynolds; Nov 25, 2008 at 03:31 PM.
IMHO, as long as its VIN matches the engine's and tranny's stamped numbers, then IT IS numbers matching, never mind the build sheet, bill of sale, POP ... etc. And as far as the "re-stamping" job is concerned, it could be done in any case, with documents or not, and the only way to verify that is by using some expert eyes to check it out, not by some old documents.
It's also missing the aluminum expansion tank for the radiator.
Also the exhaust manifolds have plugged AIR holes, the original 70 LS5 did not use AIR.
Got the full tranny stamps? Is it an M20 or M21 4-spd?
Hi A,
There is quite a long list of things to check ( sway bars, half-shafts, etc.) to see if this may have originally been a big block car.
It would be nice to start with a clear picture of the pad surface and stamped information.
The car LOOKS nice, but you need to know what you're actually spending your money on.
Regards,
Alan
It's also got a Hurst shifter, which is a good thing unless you're looking for a "original" car. I'd be very careful with this one for that kind of money.
Glenn
You'll want to know if it has the correct carburetor as it can be extremely expensive to replace. There is one for a 72 LS5 on fleabay listed at $1595 Buy It Now.
It is also missing the stickers for the top of the air cleaner. I would like to replace mine, but I can't find anyone making reproductions at this time. Of course, that kind of thing would not raise the paranoid meter nearly as much as the wrong tach....
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