If you replace your ignition switch, here is how to synchronize your 1977 steering column to the switch:

First of all there are five possible positions for your ignition key and ignition switch. Rotating the key in the CCW direction they are:
START, RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, and ACCESSORY. Here is how you get the column and the switch in synch.

Disconnect the battery.
Now drop the steering column or remove it from the car.

On the 1977 through 1982 columns there is a small lever just behind your ignition key. When you trigger the lever with your finger it opens a gate in the head that allows you to rotate your ignition key from OFF to OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY.

What you want is to do is rotate your ignition key CCW until it hits the stop. DO NOT trigger the small lever. This will place your ignition key and column in the OFF position.

Now remove the ignition switch from the column. Take your new switch (or the original switch if all you are doing is checking it) and stick a small phillips screwdriver into the bottom of the switch and slide the switch internals. Move all the way to START. You will feel the spring kicking you back to the RUN position. Now move the switch from RUN to OFF.

You will feel a detent between the two positions. Now your column is set in the OFF position and so is your ignition switch.

Carefully reinstall the switch on the the rod coming out of the column head. Now attach the switch to the column jacket. Make sure that the switch and/or the column does not move out of position. Now both the column and the switch are synchronized in the OFF positions.

Reinstall the column. Reconnect the battery.

I hope that it corrects your problem(s).
Jim

 

I replaced spome split/singed wires connected to the ignition switch, but this did not fix the prob, the car still does not start. How likely is it that the ignition switch could just simply fail?

 

Have you checked (multimeter) the voltage being sent to the starter solenoid? If that line is seeing 12vdc, then the ignition switch is doing its job. If that line does not have voltage when the ignition key is turned to 'start', then either the ignition switch is bad or there is no voltage getting to that switch. Check to find the point of failure before you start buying parts to 'try' a fix.

 

Yes, I did check the voltage to the starter and it read 12v constant...with the ign in RUN and START. Could the starter be faulty? From what everyone on the forum is saying, the ign switch is working properly. In RUN the lights come on, when i go to START the lights go off (as I was told they should), but the car does not turn over. I will double check the starter voltage tomorrow, I am guessing that if I see 12v in RUN and START...the only thing left is the STARTER itself...does that sound right?

 

Here's something you can try:

Turn on the headlights.

Watch the headlights while someone turns the ignition switch to start.

If the headlights dim considerably then you probably have a bad starter. The bad starter is sucking all the juice.

If the headlights do not dim, then the ignition system is not getting power to the starter. It could be the ignition switch, the solenoid or the wiring in between.

Getting 12 volts at the starter doesn't really mean much because the starter draws a lot of amps. You can get 12 volts at low amps and it won't start the car.

 

I ended up buying a remote starter switch...and the starter cranked over no problem. That means it is in the ignition wiring somewhere...I ordered a new switch, it should be here in a few days. I would like to trace the ignition wire that runs from the dash to the solenoid, any idea where that one originates?

 

You didn't say whether it's an automatic or a stick. It could be the neutral safety switch if an automatic. It prevents the car from being started unless it is in park or neutral. Make sure nobody and nothing is in front or back of the car in case you accidentally put the car in gear while trying this. Press the brake as hard as you can and try moving the gear shift lever within park or neutral while holding the key in the "start" position to see if it starts. You need to push the gear shift lever as far forward (in park) as you can and slowly move it backward until it is ready to go into reverse. If the neutral safety switch is merely out of adjustment the car should start. Try that and let me know if it works and we will go from there.

 

I will try this first thing in the morning. The car is an auto...where is this neutral safety switch located? is it around the gear shift area or underneath the car near the trans?

 

I think it is around the actual gear shift, someone with an auto can chime in and tell you for sure. This may also be helpful - http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf

 

The neutral safety switch is under the console near the gear shift lever. I wouldn't remove the console unless I knew for sure the switch is your problem.

 

It is beside the shift lever, passenger side.
On a 77 you just have to remove the console side panel only, not the whole console. Pass seat too, if I remember.
It is also part of the reverse lite switch combo.

 

I have solved the mystery, I think. I replaced the ign switch and the car fired. Now I have to assemble everything, we'll see if all holds together after I am finished. Thanks for everything...removing the steering column, center console, and dash was a traumatic event. Mostly because I had just finished putting it all back together this summer. Thanks again...I'll send out a final "hur ah" when I get it back together this weekend.