When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
just got my 427 back from the machine shop, so i have the long block on my engine stand now. i told them not to shoot any paint on it, so it is still bare cast iron. what do you guys do to prep you engines for paint. my plan is to use some kind of prep-sol to remove oil and grease from everywhere, and spray it with a high temp cast blast to act as a primer coat, then the chev orange. do i even need the cast blast for a base coat? does anyone have any other suggestions?? thanks, rick
I have always just used the chevy orange right on the bare metal and over original paint. But I think the next time I do a engine I am going paint it with a good hvlp gun or take it to a body shop and get it done. I just think it would look better and hold up longer. Put every thing on the engine and do it all at once. This pic is my 454 I have ready to put in. Its rattle can over original paint.
wow, your engine looks great. yeah, i have always just painted right over original paint (after degreasing) when detailing engine. and i have always just painted right over raw cast iron on a new/rebuilt engine also. never really had any problems, but just wondered what everyone else does, and whether i might gain something by shooting some kind of base coat on first.......i know alot of machine shops shoot some kind of cast paint on alot of rebuilt motors when they finish rebuilding, probably to avoid gettin surface rust right away. thanks, rick
i have never used any of the POR paint products, but i have to say, that your engine looks great too! did you shoot the paint directly on the cast iron, or use some kind of base coat first?
is the front pad where the numbers are stamped supposed to be painted or left unpainted? i can't remember......(it's been a few years since my last resto project) thanks, rick
is the front pad where the numbers are stamped supposed to be painted or left unpainted? i can't remember......(it's been a few years since my last resto project) thanks, rick
unpainted.
i rattle caned mine, after a going over with degreaser, and steel wool. i masked the pad, and the heads.
OH because i get asked about it a lot, yes, the engine was always "corporate blue" after like 78 or something all GM engines were blue, regardless of the division. Not that i care about originality or anything, but i get "why is your engine Pontiac blue" a lot.
If you want to primer first, I'd think Zinc Dichromate primer would be the best thing to use. It is a self-etching primer meant to be used on bare metal and to prevent corrosion. Clean the surfaces to be painted with a good solvent, then prime it; follow with engine enamel (500F minimum temp required). Dupli-Color makes a spray can of that primer which seems to work well.
Hi Rick,
I used VHT engine paint without any primer. It seems to have a lot of solids so it covers well. I think a CLEAN surface is the key.
Regards,
Alan
I just did my BB heads back from the engine shop using Dupli-Color paint from Advanced Auto. They also offer an engine primer for their engine final colors. Easy to do, and apply. The hard part was getting the masking tape to stick to the non-paint areas. I just used regular wax and grease remover to wipe painted areas before spraying. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html
Last edited by corvetteload; Apr 5, 2009 at 10:09 AM.
.......i know alot of machine shops shoot some kind of cast paint on alot of rebuilt motors when they finish rebuilding, probably to avoid gettin surface rust right away. thanks, rick
EPA banned the good caustic soda boiling vats for cleaning years ago.
Now shops have to bake the parts to get engines clean, but it does not work nearly as well as the old way. It will leave some really tough spots still on the block and some shops use the cast paint to cover that up.
I tell them not to spray anything but oil on the bare block.
Whatever products you use, get it really clean and oil free, like spraying it with lacquer thinner or similar.
i have never used any of the POR paint products, but i have to say, that your engine looks great too! did you shoot the paint directly on the cast iron, or use some kind of base coat first?
is the front pad where the numbers are stamped supposed to be painted or left unpainted? i can't remember......(it's been a few years since my last resto project) thanks, rick
Rick,
The POR-15 products can be applied directly to the cast surface. They recommend the surface be prepared with Marine Clean which is a degreaser followed by Metal Ready which is an acid etch product.
The paint can be brushed on with good results as it is self levelling (no brush marks) or it can be sprayed from a gun when reduced 10% using POR reducer.
In my case, I brushed the block, sprayed the pan, valve covers and timing chain cover.
Now that the engine is in the car, I find the surface very durable and easy to clean.
thanks everyone for your input, i appreciate it. i ended up really cleaning the engine thoroughly with a prep-sol product, then used the duplicolor engine paint. i hit it with their engine primer first, (last night) and picked up some chev orange today for topcoat. apparently with this enamel, you only have about an hour window for applying extra coats (according to the link corvetteload supplied, thanks!) and if you want to apply more coats after that window, you have to wait about seven days to avoid possible wrinkling over the curing enamel. sooooooo, i guess i will wait for the primer to fully cure before painting the orange top coat. thanks again, rick
thanks everyone for your input, i appreciate it. i ended up really cleaning the engine thoroughly with a prep-sol product, then used the duplicolor engine paint. i hit it with their engine primer first, (last night) and picked up some chev orange today for topcoat. apparently with this enamel, you only have about an hour window for applying extra coats (according to the link corvetteload supplied, thanks!) and if you want to apply more coats after that window, you have to wait about seven days to avoid possible wrinkling over the curing enamel. sooooooo, i guess i will wait for the primer to fully cure before painting the orange top coat. thanks again, rick
Thats what I did with the primer, let it cure for 7 days, and light final coats every 20 mins.